mudduck

Got any tricks? It seems that every couple of months I get one that just decides to start backing out. Never the same one, it can be any of the 4, sometines all of them. Has anybody else had this problem? Its not that big of a deal, but I would like to find a solution to this eventually.

Holy crap! It cost that much for rotors from the dealer? I think the last time I got rotors they were half that from the parts house. I put new shocks on the rear end this weekend and did a front end alignment. The car rides way better with new shock vs the old ones with 300,000 on them Oh, and had to put a spare tire on this morning because I had a flat when I went to go to work.

Put on a full set of brand new tires. I haven't had a matching set of tires on this car for a long time. I guess now I need to replace my rear shocks. Almost 300,000 on them, might be time.

To bad its not 1982. You could get a set of these in a 25x7.50-13

Get a second set of wheels to mount up some snow tires. When winter rolls around, bolt on the snow tires, in summer, bolt on the summer tires.

Yep, about 8 or 10 years ago in a Toyota Pickup.

Are the struts shot, or did you break the spring itself? Any parts house should be able to get struts for that car.

I have cut apart a few fram filters, and I won't put them on anything. I usually run purolater filters, much better quality, and cheaper than the frams. Microgaurd, whick is O'rielys house brand, is actually purolater filters, just painted black instead of white.

I got rotors a few years back from advance or orielys, and they weren't expensive at all. They are holding up just fine. As far as pads go, I have always gone with the ones that fall in the middle as far as price. The cheap ones go quick, and the expensive ones are, well, expensive, and these aren't race cars. As far as break dust goes, paint your wheels flat black, it hides the dust better.

Yep. The slippage should help unbind things. I have done this on a few 4wd vehicles, not just subarus.

Its bound up. Just get in some gravel or grass or somthing to allow a little slip and dump the clutch in reverse. Make sure you push the botton to disengage it before trying this, but it should work.

Check your marks and make sure they line up. With the three marks on the flywheel lined up, the mark on the drivers side cam should be down anf the pass. side mark on the cam should be at the top.

I couldn't agree more. A couple of years ago I bought an older Honda. The fellow I got the car from had the oil changed the day before I picked up the car. Stopped on my way home, and happened to notice an unusually large amount of oil under the car. Huh, I thought, as the car didn't leak when I looked at it a few days earlier. Crawled under neath, and the drain plug was finger tight, working its way loose. Found a pair of plires in the trunk, and a quart of oil and was able to get home. If I hadn't of stopped though, that motor would have been toast!

Did you have the car in 4wd on dry pavement? If you did, the chirping is normal. It is stuck in 4wd because you got things in a bind. Try putting the car in reverse, and pop the cluth while trying to go into 2wd. Otherwise get a wheel on somthing in can slip on a bit to unbind the drivetrain.

If you know someone wiht a good back, two people can lift the engine out.

Got a 95 fullsize Bronco that I'm cleaning up, and I am trying to find something to polish or wax the fiberglass top with. Its not smooth, it has a rough kind of texture, and I'm not sure how to go about it. Any idea's? Boat polish maybe?

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You can do the headgaskets in the car, but it is easier to pull the engine. I belive most folks use Fel-Pro Permatorque gaskets. As for the hub, junkyard, or one of the many friendly folks here might have an extra they could sell you.

This thread has got my sides hurting from laughing.

I had to order the washer from the dealer along with the cone washer. This was a few years ago, but if I remember right, they weren't real cheap, but not super expensive either.

I don't know what you picked up in KC, but if you have a spare alt, swap it in and see what happens.

You can acces the latch from underneath with a coat hanger or lenth of wire. Follow the sheathing that the cable goes through to the latch. There should be a hole where you can hook the wire and pull down to get the hood to pop. Save the piece that came out in your hand from inside thje car. You can atatch this to the latch mechenism when you get the hood open to pop the hood from out side.

Takes me longer to turn in the stuped pistons than anything else doing brakes on these cars. I just light up a smoke and grab the needle nose plires and start turning away. They'll get where they need to be eventually

Dude, don't waste your time replacing just the gromets on the valve covers, because thats all you'll be doing. Replace the gaskets as well. But, I bet it won't stop your leak. You should just save up a few bucks and just do all the seals at one time. Replace cam orings, seals front main rear main, valve covers. You'll at least slow down the oil leaking that way.

I got two fo them for free, so I might cut one open to check out the inside compared to the purolators that I usually use. I refuse to use a FRAM anything on my vehicles.