mudduck

Ok, I am about sure that my driver side rear axle is going (constant click click that gets louder and faster with speed) Anyway, where is the bast place to get a new axle? Are the ones advanced, auto zone, napa, worth a squat, oram I better off going oem. Also, if anyone knows of a good junkyard around central N.C. that deals with Subaru's, let me know. I need to keep this car going as its my daily driver, work car, go out in the field and move firewood hauler, and anything else you could imagine. It see's alot of use and abuse.

I always was wondering about the light, because when mine was working it would come on and it seened like I could go anouther 100 miles. I have never been able to get morew than 12.5 gallons in my tank

Thats a good location for a second battery. Will the spare still fit in there with the second battery there? I want to add my 2 extra batterys when I get my new radio gear put together, and really don't want to mount them in the back of the car again.

2wd low range would be good when having to turn tight on the trail, especially with a locked diff. Having a seperate lever for the 4ws and the low range would be a great idea.

Thats what I was wondering. How does someone loose a wheel? I guess if you don't tighten your lugnuts, they will fall off eventually.

Thanks.

Keep the Subie. Who cares what other people think. I get a hard time about my Loyale quite a bit, but than I think, at least its paid for, cheap to insure, gets good mpg, its 4wd and looks like hell, so it don't matter if I get door dings. Plus, alot of folks that have knocked my Subaru take one ride, and than I hear "If you ever want to sell it, let me know!" People have fallen in love with my little roo, hell, even my ex girl friend liked driving it more than here blazer, and now she is in the market for an old roo.

I run an optima red top now. I used to run two, one for the car and the other for my cb equipment. I have steped down in size, so I am using just one battery now. I had the second mounted in the rear of the car, in a custum box I made to hold my 6 pill, 2 pill driver and second battery. I ended up steping down because I was replacing alts almost every two weeks to a month. I am planning on adding a gm alt to give me more juice, or even a second alt in place of the ac unit just to supply power for the 6 pill. When I do this I will have three batterys mounted in the back of the car. Bottom line, get an optima, and you shouldn't have any dead battery woes.

I am just going to run the coax and power wires through the hole left behind from the clock. I am going to mount the radio an the dash infront of where the clock is. I am just thinking of ways to keep the install looking halfway claen, I could run the rg-8 and 4ga through the hole left from the clock behind the dash. At least tht is the plan for now. And as far as needing 4ga and rg-8, take a look at my sig, the 4 pill is going to be used as a driver for a 8 pill in a few months.

How hard is it to completly eliminate it? I don't care if there is a hole there, I actually want a hole there, because I am building a box to mount my cb radio up there and I am planning on running my power wires and coax through where the clock is located. I am going to use 4 ga wire and thick coax, so y'all think there is enough room behind the dash to run all that?

LOL, I go through 3 alts a year!! I have a amp for my CB that does about 350-400 watts rms, and thats when I got the small one in line. I love the lifetime warenty. I am going to pull my a/c and have a second alt put in for the radio gear if I can afford it after I get some other toys at refund time.

A "J" turn I am assuming. Cool pics, I wish we got snow like that here in NC. I miss Colorado.

LOL, I have kiled five in the last 2 years!! But than, I am running alot of cb gare putting out ALOT of power. Go with a red top, and you should hve no problems.

That part of my fenders is missing. I have plumbers strap rivited towards the bottom to keep them from floping around, because where you bolt the bottom of the fender is non existant now.

Ok, so I have trashed two tires on the front end in about 2000 miles, and thought ok, time to get the front end aligned. Took it to a local tire shop to get it streightened out, and they say that the tie rod ands are shot along with the wheel bearings. I get home and get it up in the air, and sure enough, the driver side bearing is shot, but the tie rod ands seem ok. Going to take it in the anouther shop tomarrow to let them have a look see. I would do the repaires myself, but its getting cold, and I haven't got a garage, and my knees and hands don't work that great when its warm, let alone when its cold. So I guess what I am asking is, what is a fair price to pay to have the bearing replaced along with the tie rod end?

I am out here in North Carolina.

What kind of 4xing are you wanting to do? easier logging roads, snow and mud? Or seruios rock and bottomless mud bogs?

I can take some oictues of my install tomarrow. I run a Coobra 29 and have a Wilson 1000 ant. I ran my positive and neg. off of the battery, and mounted it onthe right side of the shifter. Running your pos. and neg. straight off the battery will help get rid of any engine noise that might come through your cb. Make sure you have a good ant. for your cb and mount it as high as you can.

The belt had a little bit of squeeling this morning, but didn't squeel the rest of the day, but I found that it was slipping. Tossed in a new belt this afternoon, and the steering is a whole lot better. The belt must have just been slipping on the pump I guess.

Cool, going to try to track one down, or at least see what a pump might cost. It has has a real slow leak for as long as I have had the car. What does it take to rebuild the steering pump? Seems like it would be easy.

My power steering has become non power steering. It has enough atf . It is real tough to turn the wheel when sitting still or at really slow speed, but above 5 mph or the steering feels normal. Any ideas.

I would just lock the rear, if you feel the need for a front locker, go with a arb.

Hust get a replacement alt. I think the last one I replaced I got a remanufacyred from Advanced Auto parts, and it ran only about 50 or 60 bucks, and has a lifetime warrenty. Which is good, I seem to go through an alt every six months to a year.

Turn up the stereo. Unless the tickinh gets real bad, I would,t wory about it. Heck, mine has had a tick that comes and goes, and its been doing it for almost 100,000 miles.

It gets rough in spots. You deffinatly need to be lifted to run it int a subaru, and don't run it unless there is at least two vehicles.