montana tom

known as Stub shafts

What I'm using is lubriplate, but any assembly lube or just plain oil will work. The idea is to lube it up the first time after that the engine oil takes care of it. Use what you got . Just don't push that seal all the way in.

Either will work fine. I usually swab a finger thru some white lube and give a wipe on the id and the snout. Using loctite on the od is a good idea, iv'e had them come in the shop with a cam seal popped out.

Be very careful on variable valve timing heads that were run low on oil. They can be bad, and they are hard to get. I have had to buy whole cars to get good vvt heads.

MAF, Borrow a known good one or get a used original from ebay.

Toad; Are you checking craigs list under auto parts? I know the NW has most of the Subarus but someone in Kansas should have a crashed one.

This is an 04 California emission car for sure. Its going to have drive by wire as well. Filter is in the tank.

Plugged exhaust ?

Yea, Montana is easy going about things like that. I could see it being "Farm"equip. here. New York or New England... I could see them being sticklers.

If I don't start& drive my 2000 obw about once a month the battery goes flat in it. That is normal with an older battery. Screwy lights are another thing. Start by really cleaning and scraping battery terminals and cables. Any ground wires you see should be looked at and tightened. Have a parts house come out and see what your alt. output is. Yes, a failing alt. can drain your battery. If you think you need an alt. Start on craigs list I believe I have seen a 2002 wagon being parted out in moses lake. Next try a wrecking yard. If no luck there then look for a private independent alternator rebuild shop and have them repair your original and give it back. Absolute last choice is buy whatever the parts house has... I've had nothing but bad luck from them.

Only 99-01 need mcgivering on the pcv , 02+ pcv are the same as 07. The short block is the same for a long time,only the heads changed in 06. On any swap, the intake , cam gear and crank gear MUST stay with the original car . There are exceptions to that, but as a general rule that's what matches the ecu.

Well of course you pay the core up front. Unless you do the whole job of removal first then go get your tranny. (who would do that) Get your tranny bring it home pull your old one out , steal whatever parts you want and bring them back a core. No shop expects a core until the job is done.

If he moves the heads over, he needs the intake from the 07. Intake ,cam & crank must stay with car. The EJ 25 short block is the same. The 2000 will have a different pcv hookup but that can be worked around. Much easier to find a clean rust free 04-or 05.

Up to 2005 will work. 2007 has variable valve timing .I don't believe your ecu will be compatible.

Your post is kind of confusing toad. You found a tranny where? Is it local ? If so give them the old one and forget it. If it has to be shipped (like to foreign engines) Then keep it and pay the core. I doubt you'll be able to sell much from your old one certainly not $100 worth (imo)

Spotted this on craigs list this morning... https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1988452197843251 Never seen one before! oops make that facebook marketplace

Just for ha ha 's unplug the MAF and see if it will run.

(99 for forester) 00-01 are ej251 different pcv hookup . 02 -05 "should" be OK, 2006 started using variable valve timing. 02- 05 Block and heads "should" be the same. Reuse all your original parts.

Intake manifold , crank gear , cam gear Must stay with the car. Model year of EJ25 must be compatible. 00-01 are out 02 -05 should be OK.

Popping the valve cover is a little more difficult on this car than on others.I unbolt the motor mounts and raise it up to get clearance for pulling the Vc. No need to touch the fuel rail at all. I also do not pull a timing cover. Hand turn the motor on each cylinder when one pair of exhaust valves is open adjust the intakes, roll it over and adjust the exhaust valves. Takes about an hour a side. In my shop a valve adjust would run you apx $150 US Yes !!! you were very lucky (or the dealer was) that your car did not burst into flames.

Other thing is, inspect every connector. With your dash being iffy the large plug on the back of the gauge cluster is suspect. I'm sure you have already checked that they are plugged and tight but you may need to look for wires that backed out from connector when you plugged in. Problems like this are very frustrating, huge job most of it covered up now.... It worked before you started soooo its something that happened while you were in there... If you have a buddy who knows cars, use another pair of eyes ... sometimes you just don't see things after you have stared at it for hours on end.

Being in the north west (rust free subi land) I would not walk but RUN from that car. It has the EJ 2.5 D engine and he isn't mentioning head gaskets... bad rust thru and he wants $2000 sorry but LOL my opinion pass on it

You had the entire dash off to do a heater core. Think about grounds ... was there one deep in there ? Been awhile since I did that job ,but I seem to remember at least one serious ground under there.

Yes , do it your self. Not hard at all just pay attention. Nothing special needed.

Hey Steve; Thanks for the tip on AL vs ML 629. I went to amazon and was reading reviews ... boy sounds a lot like my experience at icarsoft. Works for some and not for others, I'm hoping your experience with your 2007 and another poster I think heartless has good luck with the Autel. I'll give it a try. Worst that could happen is I return it like the icarsoft unit. If this unit does read ABS SRS on 00-04 outbacks I will be sure to report back .