TheSubaruJunkie

Russ, your right. Im getting deeper and deeper into this project every week. I have my heads at the shop now being worked on, im sure thats gonna run me $250-$300. The block i got from the yard will need to be honed before it can be used... shop labor and parts (at this rate) will run me another $300-$400.... or I can goto the yard and try my luck again with another random block. *sigh* With rings and bearings priced the way they are, im leaning toward trying my luck with another block. -Brian

But its never a bad idea to have them straight anyways And its probably not a good idea to shift from high to low if you're peeling out. -Brian

Yeah, you should only need to remove the head where the bolt inserts from, so 1 gasket is all thats lost. -Brian

Yeah, too bad we only got 2 days tho -Brian

yes no i dunno -Brian

This happend to my EA81. My friend used the key to my 78 on my 84 and got it stuck in there with the key in the ON position. I was unable to move the key, but using some vice grips I yanked it out of the ignition (in order to drive my 78) but the ignition was still stuck in the on position. So i pulled the underside of my steering column, and disconnected the wiring harness connector from the ignition to keep my battery from draining. Then everytime I wanted to start my car, i would just plug the connection back together, and short 2 terminals on the back of the ignition itself (where the wires are soldered). That would crank the starter, and when the car was started it would remain running Pain in the rump roast, but it was cheap. Has been working to this day. -Brian

Jerry, thats who gave me the part numbers Im not blaming her for the high prices, but $250... even $175 was more than I Was expecting. Maybe I'll just leave it up to a machine shop to get the parts and i'll just close my eyes when I pay the bill :-\ -Brian

If that were the case I wouldnt need to be buying any myself. But this block I have will need to be honed and that means new rings and bearings too. -Brian

Still, i wouldnt spend $173 on a real ring. -Brian

PN: 12033AA000 https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html Search there. Is this a mistake? Anyone out there know where some can be had alittle cheaper? -Brian

Your doing it right Jibs... just use a larger hammer. Just so you know, I remove the tie rod ball joint when I do my CV's too -Brian

a) OBD I A dime a dozen. -Brian

Jared, your webserver should have plenty of space and bandwidth to do what you want, without upgrading. It always sais I'm away... even when im here, so shoot me a message anyhow and if IM here i'll reply. If I see you hop on, i'll send one your way -Brian

There are plenty of free bbs software out there Jared, if you want to host your own BBS then contact me via AIM and i can help you get it setup. -Brian

Ive always driven the bearings out with a copper rod and a good hammer. When you are removing the old ones, dont worry about them and just push them out from the inside. There is a metal spacer between the 2 bearings, so once you get the 1st bearing out be prepared to catch and clean that part. Once you remove some grease from inside you'll see a bur in the center of the hub. This prevents the bearings from being pressed too far into the hub on each side. Remove the other bearing and clean the hub out. Obviously, this is alot easier with the hub assembly out of the vehicle and on a bench. After the hub is cleaned and all the old grease is removed, use new bearing grease and lube the inside of the hub, just enough to coat the walls of the hub. Also use a dab of grease and layer the outer race. Place the bearing onto the hub and center it, then lightly... and i mean lightly tap the outer race of the bearing evenly until the bearing starts to enter the hub. Once its started its just a matter of tapping it in. Avoid hitting the inner race of the bearing at all costs. One wrong slip and your new bearings will be worse off than the old. The copper rod comes in handy and makes it even easier. Make sure its all the way in, then remember to put the metal spacer in the hub before you install the last bearing. Use alot of grease. You shouldnt have to do that side again for another 60-80k -Brian

Ah thought so. Im gonna contact WJM and see if he has a part number. I think i remember talking to him about it in the past. -Brian

What are you using for an oil cooler? Ive been thinking it may not be a bad idea to get one. -Brian

Awesome. are you experiencing any pinging or detonation problems? Im worried about not tuning mine right when I get it built, and then blowing it up again -Brian

I think i have a manual somewhere i can look at. I'll see what I can find. -Brian

It made a good bit of difference on my EA81. Was a nice mod considering at the time I was jobless and still living with mom & dad. -Brian

Wow. I hope that poor 1600 isnt pushing those tires. -Brian

-Brian

Picture = 1,000words. If you dont do this, your struts will lock up when you try to turn. Use that special BFH. -Brian

This particular modification was done by using the map lights from a 1987 Subaru XT and putting them in my 1983 GL Wagon. I removed the map light setup from the donor car at the junk yard and brought it home and began thinking of a way to secure it to the roof of my car. The original map lights screw into threaded inserts welded to the roof of the XT. Any Subaru that does not have map lights as an option will not have these threaded inserts. Therefore I thought of an idea, and it proved to work. Here we see the map lights. In the center there is a single bulb that turns on by either the door, or the switch provided. On each side of the center light are single bulbs that can be turned on by the push of a button. This is the location at which I removed the lights from the XT, and plan on installing them on my GL Wagon. Because there are no threads in the roof of my car, I made a plan to fabricate a metal plate that would be long enough to extend 2" or more beyond the sides of the map light itself. Then I would screw the map light setup into the plate creating a clamp that would hold the maplight in place against the lining in my roof. Here you see the map lights without the plastic cover, and the metal plate I created to use as my clamp. Before I started the project, I put the map light against the roof of the car, and used a pen and marked the sides and the front and rear of the maplight setup. Then I used a box cutter (razor blade) and made an incision that was about 1/2" smaller in width & length than the map light setup. In this photo, you can see a small mark on the right side of the hole... that is the actual width of the map lights. You want to leave enough room for the light to secure itself against the roof lining... but make a hole that is large enough so the bulbs and the bottom of the maplights can fit safely inside the roof. For the metal plate, I used an old hacksaw blade. It was flimsy enough to bend and sturdy enough to hold the light into place once under pressure. I used the original holes in the maplights to mark where the 2 screw's would go, then used a drill and put a couple holes in the blade as seen in Figure 1. Then, as a added precaution I bent the blade so that it would put more pressure at the ends so that it would hold the light snug against the roof lining as shown in Figure 2. Before mounting the light, I had to run some new wires to the maplight setup. The plug that originally goes to the maplights has 2 wires, negative & positive. When I took the maplights, I also took the plug and a fair amount of wire along with to make sure I had enough to add more if needed. I used the original wires that goto the dome light, and spliced into those. Then ran new wire from the dome light to the new hole in the front of the car. In order for the map lights to work properly, you need to ground the hacksaw blade because the map lights use the mounting screw's as a ground to complete the circuit when the doors are closed. Here you can see the way it will be assembled. Figure 3 shows the roof lining, the map lights, and the way the hacksaw blade will be positioned. It was difficult to line up the hacksaw blade with the holes and then screw it in, but here is the easiest way I found to do it. Screw in one end, and leave the other end unscrewed. Then slide the unscrewed end into the hole until you have enough room to slide the other end of the hacksaw blade into the hole. Attach the plug for the wiring. Center the maplights and try to squeeze your fingers into the hole and bend the hacksaw blade downward so it is against the maplights... then try to align the hacksaw blade so the hole is in the correct position and then slide the screw through the maplight hole and into the hacksaw blade. When the screw is successfully in the hacksaw, remove your fingers from the hole... make sure the lights are centered and there are no wires in the way, and tighten the screw's. Figure 4 shows what the completed setup should look like. Screwing the maplights to the hacksaw can be a difficult procedure, but with alot of patience it can be done. I didn't ground my hacksaw blade, so my lights only work if the door is open. I will have to remove everything and solve that problem some other time. Here's a few shots of the finished project. Now I can finally see what that map really sais! -Brian

Ive come across 2 of these gems in the local junkyard. Both were in 2WD Hatchbacks one 1981 and the other 1982. Not sure what other years or models they came in but they allow you to install a standard DIN size stereo into any EA81 Subaru. This one I painted black to better match the interior -Brian