TheSubaruJunkie

THis was before my wagon was lifted... quite some time ago. Me and Spiffy were wheeling in Sonora and found a trail. The trail seemed to dead end, with noplace to turn around. So we were reversing up this trail with trees to both sides and granite chunks to dodge. Needless to say, while reverse I turned avoid a rock and my front end swung into a small tree. Big enough to break my parking light and mess up my fender alittle... also took out one side of my brushguard. Then, when i did find a place with enough space to turn around, I gashed my tire on a busted up stump I thought was harmless. That was a fun trip -Brian

85 is about as fast as I'd like to go in the RX on a daily basis. Anything higher and my wallet seems to suffor. I did have it up to 97 on a downhill stretch comming home from Reno one night. -Brian

Well just great! Looks like im gonna have to find a new one. At least i got this purge valve, which was $170 from the dealer... A knock sensor is only like $50, i can live with that. -Brian

Yeah and even the smallest ones they make are still too big for my liking. Wish i could find some 26" swampers. -Brian

I went to the junkyard to snag another knock sensor to try to clear the ECU codes im getting. But i couldnt find one. There were plenty of EA82's, some SPFI, some carbbed... even one MPFI XT, but no turbo's. NONE Of the EA82's had a knock sensor in them. I had to look through all the SPFI's until I Found one that had a good Purge Solenoid Valve... but couldnt locate a single knock sensor. Are they located somewhere else on the other eA82's??? -Brian

This method has never failed me, or shown signs of damage to any components.... take the castle nut completly off, and remove the flat washer. Take the castle nut, and begin to thread it onto the CV shaft backwards (with the split portion of the threads 1st). It maybe difficult if you dont get all the threads lined up, but you want to thread it almost all the way on. Leave a small portion of the castle nut to overlap the CV shaft. You want to give the CV a good whack with a hammer. The nut should take the brute force and keep the threads on the CV safe. One solid whack is all it needs to break it loose, the cone washer should pop out of place and your hub and rotor will fall right off. A good soaking in WD40 or any penetrant should help as well if its fused in place. Good Luck, -Brian

Russ... we're gonna have to get together now!! THat RX is SWEEEET! Im super jealous. I love that scoop, any idea what it came from? -Brian

Junkyards are a great place to find those gutter mounts. Alot of VW's will have them if the prev owner put a rack on the car. I have a custom made roof rack that has some mounting points in it. No pix right now cause im at work. -Brian

On 2nd thought, you can keep em I want a White EA82 wagon to match my RX. -Brian

Its not fair... YOUR NOT SUPPOSED TO HAVE MORE (and cooler) SUBARUS THAN ME!!! You must fork one over! YOU GOTTA DO IT! Dont say no! I'll be home all night, you can drive it here and i'll arrange for a bus ticket to send you back to AZ. -Brian

2.5" FTW!! I have 2.5 on my RX and it sounds great. No muffler, but not too loud at all. -Brian

$100 for that is a SMOKIN deal! Cant believe it, it looks to be in great shape too. I saw a truck bed welded to a tongue (who hasnt seen em) and it was for sale for $100, i thought that was a good deal. But damn, double axle & 10x6, thats perfect. Might want to consider upgrading the tow rig Want to make sure you can stop that thing if you really had to. -Brian

How are those working for you? The KYB's in the rear of my RX are really stiff. But that might be because of my springs too. my suspensions different than yours. -Brian

Awesome!! YOu cant sell it! Keep it and we can go rally'n!!! -Brian

Speedo works, but is off by about 10mph. When the green is plugged in, yes... i hear clicking. I also hear my pump turn on and off over and over. I'll do that, plug in the green and drive it around. -Brian

Well, found the knock sensor, removed it... cleaned what i could, re-installed. Also did the same with my O2 sensor cause it looked like it was loose. Cars performance didnt change. Except, now my CEL likes to flicker, stay on, go off... spurraticly. When i got home i pulled codes: 22 = Knock Sensor or Circuit 33 = Vehicle Speed Sensor 35 = Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 51 = Neutral Switch or Circuit I dont have a FSM or Chiltons or anything on this EA82T, and its all still kinda new to me with all these damn sensors. Can anyone point me in the right direction? -Brian

Sedan and coupe should have the same springs, as long as it sais RX on the car somewhere. The RX springs being stiffer will raise the front of the car about an inch. -Brian

I'll have to try that. thanks, -Brian

I dont have a FSM or Haynes or anything for this EA82T of mine. Can anyone help point me to the knock sensor? MAybe some tips on how to test it. Seems my ECU is pointing to that as being the problem with my hesitation. -Brian

Oh and i checked my timing. It was off the mark... probably something like 30+ degrees BTDC. So i adjusted it down to about 22 degrees BTDC. Buhbye pinging! -Brian

I was having problems getting my EA82T to go past 4500rpm. Anytime I'd take it WOT it would start to sputter and backfire anywhere past 4300 to 5000rpm, forget about reaching 5500rpm, the car just didnt have the gusto. So after a few weeks of wrackin my brain, i just gave up. Figured it's probably a leak somewhere in the web of hoses under my hood. So I undid all the mods. Put the stock plentum back on, removed the Saab 900 IC and BPV, removed the custom intake pipes, removed the manual boost controller. Took it for a drive, and it seems to idle alot smoother. Acceleration off the line doesnt buck and near-stall like it used to. And for the 1st time in weeks my car finally passed the 5200rpm mark on the tach. But i cant drive like this for long. 6psi, no intercooling... just isnt right. -Brian

Replace the front when you do the rear conversion. And then bleed the system. Amazing what a complete once over on the brakes can do. And yes, my lifted wagon had a much easier time stopping my mud terrains after the rear disc conversion. I highly recommend it. -Brian

Fuseable links can still look good when they are burnt. You might want to replace them all with verified good links just for good measure. -Brian

Mine would be something like this: I would want something I could pack, travel and survive in for 7 days -Brian

In your climate there is no need for it. Maybe in the winter when there is snow on the ground. But for visual purposes that smog tech has to see it there. When i took my wagon for its last test I passed the hot pipe, but failed the inspection because I had cut a hole in the filter lid. To help it breath alittle better, but it was considered a modified intake, and i Had to get a completely stock lid. -Brian