TheSubaruJunkie

I saw remove the old oil, mmo and seafoam. Drain it all and replace it with 1qt of MMO and top it off with 10w30. Forget the seafoam in the oil. -Brian

I replaced the air intake for my EA82T. The piece that leads from the MAF to the Turbo. THe old one had a massive leak, and i drove it like that until my replacement part arived (thanks a mill to Calebz). But now, when i romp on it and get past 4500rpm the car studders, and hesitates real bad. Anyone have any idea why? -Brian

Oil in the air filter might be bad PCV components. Tips for smog... do a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, oil, timing) if it hasnt been done in a while. Also, before you take the car to the smog shop take it for a nice 45min-1hr drive. Get the engine nice and warm and the exhaust real hot. The catalytic converters work their best the hotter they are, and a cold cat. could mean the difference between pass/fail. Welcome to the board. Im not too far away, and i try to make it up to reno as much as possible. I think we're trying for a meet next monday. Jibs is organizing it i think. -Brian

After he's done with mine :-p Thats awesome Noah! Glad it finally got done. Now you can stick it to the man when he tries to come tow your rig. -Brian

the rear of 2WD subarus usually sit lower than 4WD. So if your good at it, you can tell by sight. But to verify or not, just look between the rear wheels. if you see CV Joints and a diff in the rear, its definatly 4WD. -Brian

I have good luck going to Kragen or Napa. There should be a filter under the hood that acts as the vapor seperator as well. Usually under $4ea. Ive never used aftermarket filters, but if it filters fuel it cant harm anything. -Brian

then i loose 1" of clearance under my crossmember. -Brian

EA81 & EA82? And what about 3" lifted guys? -Brian

Godsmack Tony? Dont like em enough to put them on my car. Ive since added some Subiesport and Rallitek decals. Should get a pic, they're silver and dont stand out as much. Ive been thinking lately that my car is seriously lacking Subaru advertisment. Since the grill modification, the only part that sais Subaru is the rear hatch. Which is faded, along with my RX emblems. So if I do add some more, they will probably be subaru related. Oh... and i also have a S.K.A. decal (Subaru Klub of Alaska) and a WCSS7 decal since this thread was started. -Brian

Never heard of them. -Brian

I have KYBs front and rear. Not sure what the part numbers are, but i can try to find them. The front KYBs are from a 2WD XT. I used the stock RX springs and it lowered the car about 2" and kept its stiffness. The new KYBs are also alot better than the stock struts. -Brian

Im thinking of removing all the stickers except for my tool, deftones, and the skull on the hood. I dunno tho, we'll see. I'd like to get a paint job and if I do, i'll just debadge the car and stickers will go with. I have the Metallica sticker in a drawer. Thinkin of putting it on my took chest. -Brian

Better make absolutly sure its a LSD. The only GL10's that should have one are 1989 GL10s with the Full Time 4WD 5spd tranny. Unless, however, someone installed the LSD into that 87 GL10 on their own. -Brian

Well... it seems he knows what he has. $300 is the going rate for a LSD on ebay. Locked differentials for any car will run upwards of $200+. But from a junkyard, you pull it yourself??? $75 is the most i'd pay if I had to lay on my back and yank it myself. -Brian

Ive heard 28" Super Swampers for 14" rims can be had for around $70-$80 a piece. The 27" Discoverer STT's I was running on my wagon cost me $73 a piece, plus there was mounting and ballancing. Tirerack.com lists the Kumho Venturer MT for $77 a piece, and they come 27x8.5" and up. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Kumho&model=Venture+MT They actually list them as in stock, which is new... ive never seen them in stock on tirerack. You'll probably be looking at $30-$50 for shipping. -Brian

My EA82T used an adapter from a 1988 Nissan Sentra. Got it off ebay for $12 shipped which included the cone filter. I noticed an increase in acceleration. After the cone filter went on, there was no more stumble or hesitation upon acceleration. Im going to be working on a new intake pipe that will replace the plastic tube that leads to my turbo. We'll see what that does. -Brian

Tony... ive dreamt of building a monster EA81. Same lines your runnin.... 10.5:1 CR, cams, pistons, intake... etc. But I also wanted to run EA81T heads that have the injector bosses for the MPFI. Forget about carburation, and then say hello to N.O.S!! -Brian

The air intake for my turbo... the pipe that leads from the MAF to the turbo, is broke. Its sucking in air, unfiltered and unmetered. Makes the RX run like crap and studder and stall. Also, i found a BUNCH of hoses that were baked and brittle. Ready to snap. One actually did and a solenoid of some sort will need to be replaced. I might do some fabrication for the MAF and air intake, but a run to the junkyard is in the near future. -Brian

Oh... to find parts, ebay is your friend some search terms that can help you in eBay... For your Manual Boost Controller "GFB MBC" or "GFB Boost Controller". That should point you to the one I have. For your air intake, you can get a cone filter adapter if you search for a 1988 Nissan Sentra adapter. -Brian

Eli... start simple man. You dont want to do too much at once, or you'll end up with problems and not know what caused it. 1st thing 1st... repair the fire damage. I know people who run without timing belt covers, so you should be fine with damaged covers... but make sure the belts are good and replace if needed. As far as performance... the 1st thing you want to do is intercool the engine. For simplicity I suggest the Saab 900 Intercooler. The inlet and outlet are 2.38", same as the throttle body on our engines. I installed my Intercooler using about $50 in pipe; $30 in hose clamps, paint and other odd's and ends... and then $40 for the intercooler. After you have the engine intercooled, then you can play with boost and everything else. The TD04 turbo upgrade seems pretty straightforward, but the only reason I havent done it is because of my intercooler setup. I would have to buy new pipe and re-route some things. Intake and Exhaust is a MUST! I wouldnt worry too much about the up-pipe, but instead replace your downpipe and the exhaust behind that. 2.5" would be near perfect... 3" wouldnt hurt but is probably overkill for our engines. Wastegates are a part of the turbo, so you cant really modify or change that... but a better BOV would be nice. Our cars dont have a BOV, or a BPV (ByPass Valve) but the EA82T and its MAF calls for a BPV and not a BOV. If you installed a BOV you will create some problems that a BPV will solve. I am running the BPV from the Saab 900 that my intercooler came with. Routing of hoses was a small pain, but it worked out and is simple. It wont add much HP but it will help keep the HP you have. Im about to replace this BPV with something better... so we'll see where that goes. And last, but certainly not least... a boost controller. Spend the money on a good one. The 1st one I bought was from ebay for $11 shipped to my door. It didnt work. If I had tried to make it work and ran with it Im almost positive it would have failed and destroyed my turbo & engine. The 2nd MBC i bought i got for $40 shipped off ebay. This is a real boost controller and it works great. Made by GFB (Go Fast Bits) and currently is set for 8psi. Night and day difference between 5psi to 8psi. 12psi is dangerous but FUN! As far as head shaving, cam grinds, extra and larger injectors... I say dont worry about it for now. A good intercooler and a finely tuned engine will be enough to make a noticeable difference and keep the RX running smooth. -Brian p.s. One other thing. I suggest Magnecore Racing Wires. They come in 7mm and 8mm. I got the 8mm wires direct from their website for $47 shipped and I could tell a difference between those and the 7mm NGK wires I used to run. Smoother idle and smoother acceleration. Definatly worth it IMO.

ARGH!!! You gotta rub it in dont you?!? Hopefully next time I try to drive up there... the RX wont fall on its face again. Ive found a couple of new problems since I replaced the turbo. Lets see if I can get them fixed next weekend and then maybe I'll try again for the weekend after that. -Brian

I mounted my CB to the roof of my wagon. But i didnt like how low it sat, so I made a way to mount it tucked inside the roof liner. Pix: In order to attatch the CB to the roof, without drilling into the roof, I used a piece of fiberboard. The fiberboard was cut into a large T. If you look at the pictures you can see the bracket for the CB sitting on top of the fiberboard. That way it would be sitting as high as possible. Then if you notice the pattern of screws you can imagine where the rest of the fiberboard is. Running the wire wasnt too difficult. On EA81's the roof lining is easy to detatch and everything unscrews. I ran the wiring down my passenger side A pillar, except for the CB antenna which ran to the rear passenger window, then out to my Antenna mount. All the wiring is hidden above the roof liner so the final outcome looks very clean and slick. The CB i have I got from Wal-Mart for $30. Its small and does the job. I spent more on the antenna and mount than the CB. If you dont care about your paint job, magnettic mounts are the way to go. -Brian

Hey... how come when you dumped your clutch your car didnt bog and near stall like mine does? -Brian

Ok j. Is it just you going to PnP? Jeremy, what do you got planned for tomorrow? Dave? And JB... you should see if that new Brat owner will go wheelin with us. -Brian

Okay... Im going to risk it on these tires. They shouldnt fail me just yet I am still planning on being at the junkyard by 10am. Who's gonna do some wheelin tho? I heard you guys got alittle snow? -Brian