TheSubaruJunkie

No. -Brian

yeah let me think about that for a second.

Im wondering if maybe the engine itself isnt able to conduct enough current with the ground. Maybe if we moved the negative cable from the engine to the tranny, get it alittle closer to the starter. That would explain why the donor car wouldnt want to crank too. -Brian

This is actually for Jibs, but I'll post to try to keep things clear. Jibs has a '82 GL Brat. EA81 with 1bbl carter/weber. The engine is old & the carb sucks so we decide to swap engines. Jibs found a donor car, 1984 GL with a EA81 and 2bbl hitachi. No ECU, no O2, no CA emissions. Engine is brand new, so clean you can see your face in the heads. We towed the donor car back to Jibs because the starter wouldnt crank over. Bypassing the ignition only got a "click" out of the starter, and hitting it with a hammer did no help, so we towed it back home. We replaced the starter, and now we were able to get a click with the key (where before we got nothing with the key). I turned the engine alittle with a breaker bar to free it up a bit, and we were able to get the starter to crank the motor... but the starter was going REALLY slow like the battery was dying. Swapped batteries and its still going really slow. Both batteries were good, and in any other car would provide plenty of cranking power. Didnt think much of it since we're robbing the motor, so we yank the motor out of the car and slap it in his '82 Brat. I overlook all the wiring differences (2bbl will be replaced with weber, so didnt bother). I had to go home, but Jibs has been wrenching on it since. I guess now, his '82 Brat is having starter problems. Starter will click, when it does turn over it turns very slowly. As if the battery is dying. I dont think its the starter as this starter worked perfectly with the old engine. And the symptoms seem to be traveling with the engine. Anyone know what could be keeping the starter from cranking? Im thinking maybe the engine is restricting it, but when we do get it fired up (only ran off-carb cleaner on the donor engine) the engine ran fine. No noises and didnt seem seized. Also, i think this maybe causing the ground wire to burn... from the spare tire area to the block. -Brian

Never heard of this mag, i think i'll need a subscription. -Brian

Brad... please dont do ANYTHING to your RX that Caboob has done. We'll maybe the shifter -Brian

-Brian

Anyone out there know why this would happen? -Brian

Pink! -Brian

Not quite sure, I think the carburator needed to be rebuilt. But I went through it and installed new gaskets not too long ago. The car ran great but failed twice. On the last trip I took it on, I pretty much put the car out of its misery. While taking a detour to catch up to my jeepin buddy's, i slid sideways into a tree. Pushed the passenger front door in pretty bad. We then got on the main trail and traversed down a cavern of granite. The bottom of the ravine had a creek which was fun to cross. I was able to wheel with them but when it was time to get back to camp the wagon started to show its weakness. My car was still loaded with some camping and rescue gear, plus I had 3 passengers (all the kids wanted to ride in the subaru). I wasnt able to make it back up the canyon wall, and had to be practically drug up the trail by my friend and his CJ7. I smoked the clutch pretty well in the meantime but it was a new setup and she took the beating pretty well. At the top we headed back to camp. We didn't get far before a piece of granite put a good gash in my front drivers side tire. Nothing pisses me off more while wheeling than destroying a tire. Oh well, slap my stupid street tire spare on and hobble back to camp. The drive home from that trip was a long and painful one. The wagon had developed some new noises from the wheeling, and the transmission finally decided to spit 3rd gear. When I got home and parked her, I knew it wouldnt move for a while, and it didn't. -Brian

Oh ok... sorry Ive been here for almost 7 years or so. There's a new thread, i can see you've found it. We'll see what we can throw together. More about this GL10 tho, did you get the parts installed Zoombaru? -Brian

Factory Service Manual. I forgot you had an automatic, that sucks. I just pulled an engine from an Auto for the 1st time. Didnt know the TC was full of fluid I'd say take the Auto out with it and put a 5spd in But that may not be practical. -Brian

Need to tint the windows alittle, but thats a good looking RX. Dont know about no spoiler, thats what makes the RX a RX. -Brian

Awesome. I gotta drive to San Fran to pickup a tranny here in the next couple weeks. Maybe some locals can get together, we can all meet up and catch a bite or something. The guy im getting the tranny from is an ex-suby nut, maybe he'd want to join along. -Brian

Oh yeah, its a EA81T so it maybe alittle more difficult to pull. Take your time, if that turbo's been on there a while it might not want to come apart. When you have the heads off, check between the valves for any developing cracks. You will need to get a torque wrench for when you re-assemble the engine. Make sure you follow the bolt pattern in the FSM for tightening the head bolts. You will have to remove the rocker assembly from the head in order to get to all the bolts. Dont worry too much about this, since its a turbo it should have hydrolic valves, and you wont need to adjust the valve clearance. Also when you get your gaskets, check to see if they require a sealant or not. Some do, some dont... it depends on the gasket manufacturer. You will also need to replace your intake manifold gaskets and I would recommend using sealant for it as well (intake manifold). -Brian

Take a fire extinguisher with you next time -Brian

JB I'm not sure what would cause that wire to fry, but you should check your other grounds as well. If you look at the Negative cable that comes from your battery, you will see it is connected right to the engine. I'd check that to see if it has a good contact. Also, check your fuseable links to see if any of those are fried as well. -Brian

Head gaskets arent a big problem. If you have a FSM it will make life alot easier. And if you can, do it with the engine out of the car. -Brian

The valve could be bad. Might want to change it. -Brian

Okay... well just take the guts out of your door with the power windows and stuff. Find the motor for the locks and stuff, all the wiring. Take it out and put it in the new door. As easy as that. Or take out the motor for the power windows, and install manual windows into the power door. -Brian

Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid in the system. Mine works 100% of the time. Also remember you have to be on a hill... and the steeper the hill the better. If the hill is near flat, the holder wont hold. -Brian

There are 3 things that would cause your problem... 1) the motor (we already know its not it) 2) the switch (cheaper than a motor, should have been replaced 1st) 3) the wiring (doubt that's the problem) Replacing a switch is easier than replacing a door. Expecially since you want to save the power locks and what not. -Brian

I wont be able to in August. -Brian

If you replaced the motor and are still having the same problem, then I would replace the switch. -Brian

Set the front end down and lift it the proper way. With the front struts extended to the max you are putting more angle on the CV's and you are also going to wear the outsides of your front tires. You will need to do some fender trimming and beating to clear larger tires without a lift as well. -Brian