TheSubaruJunkie

WOW! I Thought i had it bad with California Emissions!! You guys are being tortured with those regulations on lifts and tires! -Brian

Chux is right. Normally a dually is made to support more wieght (distribute the wieght more evenly). But in a situation like this you'd want duallies so you can stay on top of the snow/mud instead of sinking into it. -Brian

Wow, GRATZ Adam!! And tell Bekah the same. -Brian

Negative goes from the battery to the engine block. There is also a smaller ground from the tranny to the spare tire carrier. Wish i wasnt 2 hours away, i could go up there and take a look... possibly fix it for him. -Brian

The drop is acomplished by using 2WD XT Struts. They will give you about a 2" drop. The 5 lug conversion (what Subaru Styles has) is completly different. If you want a drop, but with a stiffer ride, use XT struts and RX springs. SHould account for a 1" drop since the RX springs are stiffer than XT's. This is all for the front. I have yet to lower my rear end. -Brian

Paint the body kit black to match your grill. Thats the cheap and easy way out. But I would suggest you paint the entire kit to match the car... including the grill. -Brian

K.I.S.S Thats what its all about. Why dont we have them??? Cause we dont need them. Its one less part to fail and Subaru knew it would be beating around the bush to try to develop one. Our 4WD is nothing like that of a conventional truck with locking hubs. Our transfer case is completly different and our drivetrain is completly different. However, i thought of adapting locking hubs for the rear to run a locked rear end without having to remove axles when on the street. Idea never made it far. -Brian

High centering sucks, and stumps do too. Never hit my head on anything, but have drug my floorboards over many-a-rock. An extra 3" helps alot. -Brian

No. -Brian

yeah let me think about that for a second.

Im wondering if maybe the engine itself isnt able to conduct enough current with the ground. Maybe if we moved the negative cable from the engine to the tranny, get it alittle closer to the starter. That would explain why the donor car wouldnt want to crank too. -Brian

This is actually for Jibs, but I'll post to try to keep things clear. Jibs has a '82 GL Brat. EA81 with 1bbl carter/weber. The engine is old & the carb sucks so we decide to swap engines. Jibs found a donor car, 1984 GL with a EA81 and 2bbl hitachi. No ECU, no O2, no CA emissions. Engine is brand new, so clean you can see your face in the heads. We towed the donor car back to Jibs because the starter wouldnt crank over. Bypassing the ignition only got a "click" out of the starter, and hitting it with a hammer did no help, so we towed it back home. We replaced the starter, and now we were able to get a click with the key (where before we got nothing with the key). I turned the engine alittle with a breaker bar to free it up a bit, and we were able to get the starter to crank the motor... but the starter was going REALLY slow like the battery was dying. Swapped batteries and its still going really slow. Both batteries were good, and in any other car would provide plenty of cranking power. Didnt think much of it since we're robbing the motor, so we yank the motor out of the car and slap it in his '82 Brat. I overlook all the wiring differences (2bbl will be replaced with weber, so didnt bother). I had to go home, but Jibs has been wrenching on it since. I guess now, his '82 Brat is having starter problems. Starter will click, when it does turn over it turns very slowly. As if the battery is dying. I dont think its the starter as this starter worked perfectly with the old engine. And the symptoms seem to be traveling with the engine. Anyone know what could be keeping the starter from cranking? Im thinking maybe the engine is restricting it, but when we do get it fired up (only ran off-carb cleaner on the donor engine) the engine ran fine. No noises and didnt seem seized. Also, i think this maybe causing the ground wire to burn... from the spare tire area to the block. -Brian

Never heard of this mag, i think i'll need a subscription. -Brian

Brad... please dont do ANYTHING to your RX that Caboob has done. We'll maybe the shifter -Brian

-Brian

Anyone out there know why this would happen? -Brian

Pink! -Brian

Not quite sure, I think the carburator needed to be rebuilt. But I went through it and installed new gaskets not too long ago. The car ran great but failed twice. On the last trip I took it on, I pretty much put the car out of its misery. While taking a detour to catch up to my jeepin buddy's, i slid sideways into a tree. Pushed the passenger front door in pretty bad. We then got on the main trail and traversed down a cavern of granite. The bottom of the ravine had a creek which was fun to cross. I was able to wheel with them but when it was time to get back to camp the wagon started to show its weakness. My car was still loaded with some camping and rescue gear, plus I had 3 passengers (all the kids wanted to ride in the subaru). I wasnt able to make it back up the canyon wall, and had to be practically drug up the trail by my friend and his CJ7. I smoked the clutch pretty well in the meantime but it was a new setup and she took the beating pretty well. At the top we headed back to camp. We didn't get far before a piece of granite put a good gash in my front drivers side tire. Nothing pisses me off more while wheeling than destroying a tire. Oh well, slap my stupid street tire spare on and hobble back to camp. The drive home from that trip was a long and painful one. The wagon had developed some new noises from the wheeling, and the transmission finally decided to spit 3rd gear. When I got home and parked her, I knew it wouldnt move for a while, and it didn't. -Brian

Oh ok... sorry Ive been here for almost 7 years or so. There's a new thread, i can see you've found it. We'll see what we can throw together. More about this GL10 tho, did you get the parts installed Zoombaru? -Brian

Factory Service Manual. I forgot you had an automatic, that sucks. I just pulled an engine from an Auto for the 1st time. Didnt know the TC was full of fluid I'd say take the Auto out with it and put a 5spd in But that may not be practical. -Brian

Need to tint the windows alittle, but thats a good looking RX. Dont know about no spoiler, thats what makes the RX a RX. -Brian

Awesome. I gotta drive to San Fran to pickup a tranny here in the next couple weeks. Maybe some locals can get together, we can all meet up and catch a bite or something. The guy im getting the tranny from is an ex-suby nut, maybe he'd want to join along. -Brian

Oh yeah, its a EA81T so it maybe alittle more difficult to pull. Take your time, if that turbo's been on there a while it might not want to come apart. When you have the heads off, check between the valves for any developing cracks. You will need to get a torque wrench for when you re-assemble the engine. Make sure you follow the bolt pattern in the FSM for tightening the head bolts. You will have to remove the rocker assembly from the head in order to get to all the bolts. Dont worry too much about this, since its a turbo it should have hydrolic valves, and you wont need to adjust the valve clearance. Also when you get your gaskets, check to see if they require a sealant or not. Some do, some dont... it depends on the gasket manufacturer. You will also need to replace your intake manifold gaskets and I would recommend using sealant for it as well (intake manifold). -Brian

Take a fire extinguisher with you next time -Brian

JB I'm not sure what would cause that wire to fry, but you should check your other grounds as well. If you look at the Negative cable that comes from your battery, you will see it is connected right to the engine. I'd check that to see if it has a good contact. Also, check your fuseable links to see if any of those are fried as well. -Brian