TheSubaruJunkie

Tony... your full of idea's. I dont see any reason why any of those wouldnt work, and of course they'd be better than our current setup. -Brian

Thats why i got a garage -Brian

Yeah, CSK Auto (Checkers, Schucks, Kragen) have bad prices, but very good business ethic's. They will beat any competitor by 5%. Of course, they dont tell you until you complain about their prices. I get CV's from them for $47 cause I tell them Napa has them for $53ea (if you goto Kragen after Napa closes, they cant call to verify). Where is this $8 a can stuff, and where can i get it? Is it an actual aerosol can? Like spray paint? -Brian

Miles, that fuse under the hood doesnt do anything. Ive removed it, and tried to peel out to see if just the front is driving, and its still 4WD. Put it back in, and same thing. -Brian

Not too sure about the non-adjustable rack Tony. Its like the rack that is on that 2WD Wagon you have. Also, the non-adjustable rack doesnt have any threaded inserts like Tony's stock rack has. My sube has no rack at all, so it works perfectly And the gutter mounts that tony fabb'ed are perfect, and look great. -Brian

I want to make another trip up to medford. Ive been talking to Tony about some bumpers for my wagon. Would like to take the brat on a trip up there. -Brian

Got home and unwrapped the rack. Beautiful box fabrication Tony!! Thats alot of rack to clean. Im probably 3/4 finished with just cleaning it. I did, however, get some pictures to share!! Here's a picture of the light tabs and the tab for the CB Antenna: And here's a picture of it partially loaded, with plenty of room for a spare: Should I prime it before I put the bedliner on it? Or would it be better to use the bedliner on the bare metal of the rack? -Brian

Can I just cut 3 or 4" off the shifter, and then thread the shifter again instead of welding the shifter back together? I dont like the idea of having welds on my shifter. -Brian

14" Pug Alloys need the cone lug nuts from the pug in order to work. Your Subaru lugs will not work properly and can damage the rims. -Brian

I want to remove both rear CV's to eliminate binding cause the tires do not match. Front tires are smaller than the rear tires right now. The car isnt moving, so its not a problem, but if I do have to drive it to deliver it, or drive it to test it, i was thinking of removing the rear cv's to eliminate bind since the car is FT4WD. What I dont want to do is ruin the tranny by running it in FWD or have it transfer ALL the power to the rear diff since there will be no friction back there. -Brian

Yeah, will steel wool work? Thats been my wire-brush replacement since i bought a large bag of it for $2 I saw the pix and was planning on cleaning up the rack before painting. I also want to get that liquid rubber you can get to coat tools and stuff, and coat the gutter mounts in it so it doesnt scratch my car up (like i really care anyway!). Im still all giddy... I CANT WAIT! Only 4 more hours until i get off work. -Brian

Tony, i was looking at your design and was thinking of another option instead of bolting together. You said UPS wouldnt ship it cause it was 3" too long right? What if you made the spare tire extension removable... then that could be removed to save more than 3" of length, but be bolted on when its assembled. I would think the racks would be stronger that way instead of having it split in the center. Regardless, im glad I got the 1st TWB Fabrications 1 piece Subaru Safari Rack!!! I kinda feel like Adam having the original Steelydel brushguard -Brian

I used a brillo pad, a few pads of steel wool, some harsh cleaning agent i found in the closet. The other day i was at the hardware store, and they had a tube of "aluminum polish" on sale, so i picked it up. Havent tried it yet, but when i do i'll update everyone. -Brian

HAHAHAH! I cant wait. I told my GF to pick it up from my parents house so i can just goto Ace hardware on the way home instead of making 2 stops. Going to get the fake Line-x, and some tiedowns, and one of those cool bungee nets -Brian

1st of all... a great big "THANK YOU TONY! YOU KICK rump roast!" is in order here. I'm still at work, but just got the call from my mother saying "Fedex just stopped by and dropped off your package is HUGE!" I'll be able to pick it up tonight and get the 1st few coats of primer on the rack. then i'll prepare it for mounting! Should have pix shortly thereafter.. -Brian

Well, let me know when you have the next free Wednesday. I can take the brat up there and be there in an hour and a half. -Brian

No room here for another sube. I wanna rescue this 78 GL. Its sweet, california car with no rust. Pushbar and jackmans with new snow's on it. Just need access to my backyard -Brian

Being a turbo, there's always room for performance upgrades. Not sure if the Auto driveline will work, i think the auto is longer than the manual. if you get the driveline that came with the tranny, it should work fine. The wheelbase on a Brat and Wagon are the same. -Brian

HAHAHA... the car is still a BABY!!! 120K is nothing. No, i was completly clueless. I had no idea what a V8 stood for. That was when i was 17 tho, i've learned quite alot, 90% of everything Ive learned, i've learned on this message board, asking simple questions like the one stated above. -Brian

Well... i wont have any time for a couple weeks. -Brian

Hrm.... not sure. Wednesdays are best for me. -Brian

Yeah, that 4spd will work behind the turbo. You'll have to install the peddle assembly which is the hardest part. Other than that, its pretty much a straight swap. You can put a 5spd 4WD tranny in there as well, but its alittle more work. -Brian

I want to do that to my brat. Was actually thinking about it on the drive home from work today. -Brian

There are more pix here: http://usmb.net/gallery/albun00 -Brian

Yeah, your right. I keep getting them mixed up. 3.7.... 3.9.... yeah, one of those two. -Brian