TheSubaruJunkie

Got a '78 in Sacramento. PM me

You can spot Dave in his Wagon by the HORRIBLE paint chipping on the hood He gripes at me for modifying my Subaru's... I gripe cause he wont replace that hood. On the subject of EA81's. I saw two today. One was on a flat bed tow truck being towed to the tire shop by my work. The other is a golden 4WD wagon that keeps driving by my work.

ahhh true.

Uhm.... why? This oil has less than 30min run time on it. Along with the new filter. -Brian

There are no mods. Everything is plug & play. Or should be from the other discussions ive read.

Fixed the timing belt. The motor didnt even make an entire revolution before it fired up. God its been too long since Ive heard the rumble of my EJ22. Almost 3 months. Aside from alittle smoke burning off some bits and pieces, everything checks out okay. Ran the scan tool and all the vitals appear to be within range. Took the car for a quick test drive. No overheating, no wierd clanks or ticks. Accelerates under boost as it should. Only thing left to do is put the hood back on and clean up the mess I made in the garage.

Feel stupid. Why would Subaru put only 1 mark on the face of the crank sproket and it be in the wrong position?

Yeah i like the originality of that one.

So i pulled the covers and yep... it appears my timing belt isnt right. While rotating the crank trying to get the lines on the belt to line up with the lines on the cams, i noticed the mark on the backside of the crank gear. And noticed only 1 mark on the front side, which was the arrow. There were no marks on the front of the gear that corresponded with the mark on the back, so i MUST have installed it incorrectly. No other explanation. Now the task of removing and reinstalling the belt. My back is killing me, perhaps tomorrow.

Were those the only 3 who applied or something? THere had to be better choices? Guess I cant *************** since I missed the 1st deadline and wasnt able to enter...

what are you doing about blocking the original throttle body? Wouldnt that create a huge vacuum leak? This entire project is brilliant! SJR DOES IT AGAIN! Cant wait till I move out of smog nazi territory so I can set something like this up. A Carbed powered EJ22 is a dream of mine. -Brian

Ok guys, new findings.... When I woke up and left for work, i disconnected my battery. I figured 8hrs would be long enough for the ECU to clear its memory. WHen I got home, i connected the battery and checked for codes and im still getting code 11 and 13. Remind you, before I was getting only code 11 until I FORCED a code 13 by disconnecting my Cam Sensor. The Cam sensor is reconnected but the code is still showing. That's leading me to believe code 11 (Crank sensor) is old. So I decided I would do a compression check. I pulled 2 plugs, one from each head (front pistons as they are the easiest to get to). I noticed immediatly that each plug was soaked in fuel. Fresh fuel from a recent attempt at starting the car not 2 min prior. So that answers that. It looks like im definatly getting fuel. So I checked compression, first with pistons #1 and i got 120psi. Then moved over to Piston #2 and same reading at 120psi. IIRC these numbers should be above the 160psi mark am I correct? The motor has fresh head gaskets. Heads were machined. Torqued to spec. No reason compression should be bypassing the rings either but I didnt go as far as doing a leakdown test. After doing this, I checked again for spark and determined I am in fact getting spark to those 2 cylinders. Guess the next step is to pull the timing belt covers and check that unless anyone else has anything helpful to add? Thanks -Brian

As long as all the smog equipment that came with the car from the factory is still there, then it should. The car does not have to be a CA vehicle to pass CA smog... just has to have all the equipment that came with it from the factory.

You can kinda see it in this picture. Its that thin metal plate directly behind the rotor. You will need to remove the caliper and rotor in order to get it off. Its held on by two 12mm bolts. They are not interchangeable. If you need the drivers side, get the drivers side. They are also not terribly important. And are pretty flexable. If you are having trouble with it scrapping the rotor, you can bend it out of the way. I also know of a few people who chose not to use them alltogether. expecially on wheelin rigs as rocks and mud tend to get packed in there pretty easily. -Brian

I just got a set of headlights from the Junkyard that look to be in near new condition. No yellowing at all. Would it be a wise decision to clearcoat them before installing them to help prevent yellowing in the future? And will any ole clearcoat work? I got some spray on stuff I used for modeling. -Brian

I was reading through the .pdf's on the timing belt install again. And im second guessing my installation. The guide tells you about the marks on the crank, however it indicates a mark on the backside of the sprocket. I read both PDF's and it didn't clearly indicate which mark on the face of the sprocket to use. I whipped up this image here to help explain what I did: I see 2 additional marks on the face of the sprocket. One looks to be an arrow, the other is looks like "ND" or "N?" And the other is just a mark, which looks like it corresponds with a mark on the backside of the sprocket. I marked the image with "This Mark" showing the mark I used when aligning the lines on my timing belt. Im almost 110% positive I didnt use the Arrow. Im going to bring my compression tester home with me from work, along with my multimeter to do some further testing but I have a feeling Im going to have to pull the radiator and check the belts.

I dont nave a noid light. And my meter is at work. I guess i'll have to bring it home and see if I can determine wether or not the injectors are opening. I left the negative terminal on the battery off for 4 hours, and im still getting the same codes. And no, you cannot mix the cam and the crank sensor connectors. THey are different colors and different connectors.

Looking over my FSM for the 1992 Legacy, both non-turbo and turbo share the same wiring configuration for the Crank and Cam sensors... unless Im reading something wrong.

So the non-turbo and turbo cars have a different pin configuration for the cam and crank sensors??? Cause i had to replace the crank sensor harness plug, and i got one from a non-turbo Legacy. Just wired it up yellow to yellow, black to black, white to white. My car is originally and still is a turbo. I removed the motor to do the headgaskets and now after re-installing the motor I cant get it to restart. -Brian

Since I cannot clear the ECU's memory, im not going to start digging into my motor to check the crank sensor... im not 100% sure its at fault anymore. And according to those directions, in order to reset the ECU i gotta start the motor... Pulse width was something like 36ms but did not change when cranking the motor. I cant remember exactly what the value was, i'd have to go back out and try again.

Ok day 2 (well, week 3... but anyhow). I reconnected my INtercooler, made sure everything was plumbed and connected tight. Tried starting the car and get nothing. I used the Laptop again with VRG's scan tool software. My injector pulse does not change at all with the cranking of the motor. Nor does my IAC valve. Everything else seems to be reacting. Timing drops to 15 degree's and stays there when cranking. Last night I disconnected my Cam sensor and forced it to throw code 13. So now my ECU is flashing code 11 & 13. After several attempts to clear the ECU (by disconnecting the batt, and sitting on the brake) it still shows code's 11 & 13, even tho I have reconnected the cam sensor. This makes me think the code 11 its flashing is the same ole code 11 ive been getting before I repaired the crank sensor. Regardless... still not getting fuel... what am I missing? IM trying to do some searching to figure out what the ecu uses to sense and open each injector... but im drawing a blank.

I used the End Wrench document when installing my timing belts. This is my 1st time for the EJ22 doing t-belts. I followed the document to a T and made sure i used the small nick on the crank and cam sprockets, not the arrows. Also, all 3 marks on the new belt lined up perfectly with the marks. Im curious if it would throw code 11 if the belts were installed incorrectly?

Tried that and it didnt do anything. But I didnt try much fluid and only tried once. Im wondering if my timing belt was installed incorrectly if it would throw a code for the crank angle sensor??? I disconnected the cam sensor and left the crank sensor plugged in to see if it would take a signal from the crank, but i did not, and threw a code for the cam sensor immediatly.

SO I went to the junkyard and got a new connector for the crank sensor. Wired it in, and now I have spark. However, the car still doesnt start. How do I test the injectors? I know im getting fuel from the pump. While checking codes I still get code 11 for the crank sensor. -Brian

Thought we had that here? Are females intimidated?