TheSubaruJunkie

Looking over my FSM for the 1992 Legacy, both non-turbo and turbo share the same wiring configuration for the Crank and Cam sensors... unless Im reading something wrong.

So the non-turbo and turbo cars have a different pin configuration for the cam and crank sensors??? Cause i had to replace the crank sensor harness plug, and i got one from a non-turbo Legacy. Just wired it up yellow to yellow, black to black, white to white. My car is originally and still is a turbo. I removed the motor to do the headgaskets and now after re-installing the motor I cant get it to restart. -Brian

Since I cannot clear the ECU's memory, im not going to start digging into my motor to check the crank sensor... im not 100% sure its at fault anymore. And according to those directions, in order to reset the ECU i gotta start the motor... Pulse width was something like 36ms but did not change when cranking the motor. I cant remember exactly what the value was, i'd have to go back out and try again.

Ok day 2 (well, week 3... but anyhow). I reconnected my INtercooler, made sure everything was plumbed and connected tight. Tried starting the car and get nothing. I used the Laptop again with VRG's scan tool software. My injector pulse does not change at all with the cranking of the motor. Nor does my IAC valve. Everything else seems to be reacting. Timing drops to 15 degree's and stays there when cranking. Last night I disconnected my Cam sensor and forced it to throw code 13. So now my ECU is flashing code 11 & 13. After several attempts to clear the ECU (by disconnecting the batt, and sitting on the brake) it still shows code's 11 & 13, even tho I have reconnected the cam sensor. This makes me think the code 11 its flashing is the same ole code 11 ive been getting before I repaired the crank sensor. Regardless... still not getting fuel... what am I missing? IM trying to do some searching to figure out what the ecu uses to sense and open each injector... but im drawing a blank.

I used the End Wrench document when installing my timing belts. This is my 1st time for the EJ22 doing t-belts. I followed the document to a T and made sure i used the small nick on the crank and cam sprockets, not the arrows. Also, all 3 marks on the new belt lined up perfectly with the marks. Im curious if it would throw code 11 if the belts were installed incorrectly?

Tried that and it didnt do anything. But I didnt try much fluid and only tried once. Im wondering if my timing belt was installed incorrectly if it would throw a code for the crank angle sensor??? I disconnected the cam sensor and left the crank sensor plugged in to see if it would take a signal from the crank, but i did not, and threw a code for the cam sensor immediatly.

SO I went to the junkyard and got a new connector for the crank sensor. Wired it in, and now I have spark. However, the car still doesnt start. How do I test the injectors? I know im getting fuel from the pump. While checking codes I still get code 11 for the crank sensor. -Brian

Thought we had that here? Are females intimidated?

UH... D'UH!! Unless I can goto Napa and buy Pale Oil, Naphtha & IPA, which last I checked... i couldn't. So therefore, there is something special about Sea Foam.

I have not pulled the crank sensor to inspect it. I don't remember touching it when I had the motor apart either. Was only working in that area while installing new t-belts.

Wow jeremy, your wagon was so small back then.

Problem with central california is its still a 4 to 6 hour drive one way for anyone in NorCal or SoCal. This state is just too big

God I miss this car http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1505274 -Brian

Yup, solved my problem too. Makes sense

I just went and pulled codes from the ECU, and i get code 11: I trace the wiring from that damaged connector and it does lead to the crank sensor. Guess I gotta find a connector at the yard and splice it in. Then try. And yes Andrew, i got a .pdf of the FSM

DUDE!?!? What did you do to your car man? Why's its asz in the air?

checked that time and time again. Wish it were only that simple.

Ok so im at work talking to one of the mechanics I work with. He's gone thru training for auto's even tho we work on construction equipment... etc... Anyhow, he was telling me that a car is able to run on only the crank sensor, and even if the cam sensor was disconnected the motor should still run, but would run like ************. From what he was saying, is vehicles are programmed to use the crank sensor for spark, and the cam sensor for timing. Mind you, he's never touched a subaru, so I can't put much truth to all this, but he has gone through more training than I so I cant call him a liar. Is there any truth to this?

does that mean your working again Jibs? Going to try to make it there before the weekend. I gotta get 1 part for my legacy to get it running (hope thats all it needs).

Jibs cant walk out of that place without at least one LSD! Damn you boy! You guys should come to the sacramento PnP sometime... i gotta go get some things, but need a ride -Brian

I have the car wired for VRG's laptop scan tool... and i have an old laptop that is setup with only the scan tool on it. I dusted it off, and hooked it up. The scan tool recognized engine RPM when cranking the engine over. I dont have a multimeter at home, so this was just a quick test to see if the ECU is seeing any RPM, which indicates it does. I was swapping the 3 loose wires around on the connector in every combination I could. A couple combinations the tach would just sit there and a couple the tach would kinda bounce when turning the engine over. I'd like to check the ECU for errors, but i have a raging headache now, and i think im going to toss the towel in for the night.

Shawn what do you mean by that?

No real way to check for fuel pressure. I first checked for spark, and after finding none I decided to figure this out before I start to chase down a fuel problem. When cranking over the motor, the tach does not budge. CEL does come on with the key. So i guess the ECU is getting the power it needs. Im checking the .pdf version of the service manual, and the wiring diagram isnt much help to me. I do know, there were 3 plugs on the backside of the motor, center near the throttle body. two were 3 spade plugs, one was a single spade plug. When removing the motor, i failed to disconnect these 3, and I ended up ruining them. One of the 3 spade connecters just broke the locking tab. I now have it secured with a zip tie. The single spade connector tore from the wire, so I used a standard butt end connector and just reconnected them. The third 3 spade connector was completely destroyed. the 3 wires comming from the harness side were exposed. I matched the colors and right now they are just connected to the pins in the engine side until I can find a better replacement. Im thinking these are the cam angle and crank sensors??

checked, checked, checked. How do I tell if there is no signal comming from the cam or crank sensor? I have all wiring connected.

So everything is connected, bolted together, fluids where they should be. Go to start the car and it turns over, i have no spark I checked, rechecked and checked again. All the wiring i can clearly see is reconnected. What could cause the coil pack not to send spark? -Brian