TheSubaruJunkie

I would think that 2" will hyperextend the CV"s and cause all kinds of camber issues.

Doesnt look like any of those valves are stuck open. I say put new headgaskets in and fire her up! I believe you can find a complete engine gasket kit from Napa for around $100 -Brian

Awe man I wanna go... I'll be in the garage putting new suspension on the legacy though. -Brian

Dont know who told you that. Like to see this when your finished.

Did you install the blocks that drop your engine crossmember? This should give you the extra drop you need to install your struts.

No. Not without ALOT of modifications. If you do the 5 lug swap, you can do it.

ALL WRX's are turbo. So unless you plan on changing out the pistons when you do the conversion I would advise against making it a non-turbo. I would do a EJ22 swap myself. It has more than enough power for your wagon.

You're right about not wanting to run a turbo on an off-road car, but thats not cause of hoses. Its cause of turbo lag and making no power at low revs. When wheelin, you want all your power at 2000rpm instead of 4000rpm so you can crawl over stuff. Using a WRX engine is no different than a STi engine. You are still taking an engine that was turbo, and removing the turbo... you will have lower compression because of the pistons and instead of having no power at low revs, now you will have no power at low rev's or high rev's. I suggest you do some research on the differences and what it all really means before you drop $3000 on a motor that will be worse off than the one you already have. Just a suggestion. -Brian

I had one of those testers and i hated it. spend $50 on a decent tester. Hell, even Harbor Frieght sells a decent tester for $20 that is better than that. I wouldn't trust the rubber tipped compression testers at all. -Brian

No way Rick. What could be cooler than having a STi motor in your car?

A good compression tester should have a valve built in so pressure doesnt bleed off. That way the needle stays at the most pressure so you can crank the motor over then go check the gauge. I recommend removing all 4 spark plugs when You do your compression test. this way the motor will rotate at its fastest. Also, run your test... then remove the compression tester and squirt a few drops of oil into the piston and run your test again. If the results change, chances are you have bad rings. However, a stuck valve is a possibility. If you have a valve stuck open, you would have 0 compression on that cylinder. I know what you mean about not wanting or having the time to mess with these motors. I gave up on my EA81 as well when it was having trouble and went with the EJ22 Wagon I now have. -Brian

Elbow grease and a whole lot of it! I used a box of those self soapy brillo pads. Before: After: Some Touchup Paint (testors model paint): -Brian

Yeah, i had that idea more than once. a MPFI EA81 would be great off-road. Could probably still run it all off the stock ECU. I also had an idea to run the carburator on the motor and use the injector bosses for NOS injectors

So if you dont want to run a turbo, then why are you getting a STi 2.5?? Why not find a standard EJ25 from an outback or forester? Im sure it will be cheaper.

Ok lets focus on your original question... "Major Differences between EA81 & EA81T" The biggest difference between the two, other than the turbo of course, is the fuel delivery. EA81 is carburated. EA81T is MPFI. That being said, the MPFI needs a ECU to run it propperly. Can you swap the intake manifold and run a carb on it... maybe. Will it ever run as good as a regular EA81... no. Whynot? Well cause: 1) Lower Compression: The EA81T has a lower compression ratio to make up for the boost. "Big deal" you say? Yeah, it is a big deal. You think a EA81 is underpowered now, remove compression on not just one, but ALL cylinders and you have a lawnmower engine powering a stationwagon. 2) Fuel Injector Bosses: The heads are different, they have fuel injectors in them and you will need to remove and plug these. You can do it, but just another pain in the rear. 3) Distributors: The EA81T has a special type of distributor (cannot remember the technical term off the top of my head) but it will not run propperly. So you will need to use your standard EA81 distributor. There are plenty of other alternatives. EA81's are not that hard to come by. Maybe we should be asking why you are looking for a new EA81 in the first place? -Brian

Your PM box is full... check your email. -Brian

I used a SPFI block when I built my RX motor. Cant remember if it had that 3rd PCV or not. I ran stock boost and it felt great. Better than the EA82T block at 12psi (stock is about 5 to 7ish). With the intercooler installed, it was max boost at 5psi I wouldn't use a high compression block without an intercooler. If you want a N/A Block WITH the 3rd passage, look for a MPFI block from a XT. They will have it. -Brian

Like this one? or:

Its really a simple job, you will realize when you are half way through Pulling the motor is indeed the easiest method in my opinion. Your EA71 wont have much stuff to disconnect. Only tip I can recommend would be to mark ANYTHING you disconnect. You will be able to pull the motor complete with alternator, intake and everything attatched... however, make sure you pay attention to which line is the fuel supply and return for the carburator. On the ignition coil, mark which wires are + and which are -. Color coded zip ties work great for this where more than 1 wire connects to one junction.... zip tie the wires with a yellow tie, then zip and yellow tie around the post they attatch to... red to red, black to black etc. If you haven't already, make sure your clutch kit comes with a centering tool. You will need to lock the motor to remove the flywheel bolts (since you are planning on replacing the rear main seal). I cant remember if theres a spot on the flywheel to place a screwdriver to keep it from spinning, but usually to lock my motors I place the piston at BDC on the compression stroke... then feed some rope in through the spark plug hole... then start to rotate the motor until it compresses the rope and will not spin anylonger. Works every time With an extra set of hands, this job shouldnt take more than 4 hours. have Fun, -Brian

Yeah, expecially since they are brand new and belong to the roomates. I had to pay special attention when moving the engine hoist to make sure I didnt ram into them. -Brian

In this picture here, you can see my custom engine stand I used when resealing my EJ22T Worked like a charm. I used the engine hoist to keep things stable while working on it.

I say paint em black. Those are going to look very slick on that car.

Hey thanks shawn Well, the documents that describe how to do a timing belt should go into further detail explaing NOT to use the arrow, and to pay attention for a mark on the backside of the sprocket.

It was 90 degree's off. It appears as if I used the arrow, not the mark on the back of the sprocket Running like a champ now.

It will suck not being able to purchase a shirt this year. :-\