TheSubaruJunkie

Im down. Just have the Legacy right now... so dirt roads will be okay. Rocks, maybe not so much. -Brian

In his craigslist ad he mentions two ebay ad's. One of them is a Brat that sold for $3500 and the other is a Brat that sold for $5500. So he thinks what he is sitting on is gold. What he fails to realize, are both of those brats were running, driving, smogged and pretty immaculate (but still overpriced in my eyes). Im not going to make an offer on both of his brats. I dont have room to park the other and have no desire to ride around in an ugly yellow brat. When I have the money, I will email him again and tell him $750 and I'll tow it home. If he still doesnt take the offer I will just let him sit on them and try and find another one somewhere. These things are not THAT rare. -Brian

Its in Petaluma. I will have to rent a truck and a trailer from work. With todays gas prices, I expect to pay $100 each way with everything said and done.

Yeah ive seen this on craigslist a couple times myself. The latest ad has been up for a few weeks. I think I will spend some time gathering the money, maybe wait until my Surplus check comes in and if nothing better pops up I'll see if he'll go lower.

The fender is the same as any other EA81. The doors are the same as the doors of a Hatchback or a 2dr Coupe. And yeah, the smog testing here in CA is very stringent. -Brian

Im sure the car will come without a brush guard. That doesnt bother me. He mentioned it has a brand new motor in it, just not connected. He said he spent $500 on the engine and thats why he wants $1000 for the car. I think im going to work on selling the Toyota to fund this project. I expect to spend at least $200 to tow it back home, which adds to the cost. I have a spare engine as well. Only thing im concerned about is finding a matching fender and door.... other than that, the smog check will be a huge hurdle.

Found a brat on Craiglist. The guy is selling 2 for $2900... one runner and one as parts. Neither pass smog, the parts brat doesnt run but the body looks reasonable. The only parts that are dented are easily replaced. Drivers door & fender. The Parts brat doesnt run and will need to be towed to my house. I got a reply and the guy sais he'll take $1000 for the parts brat. What do you guys think? I have a hard time spending $1k for something I have to tow home and then tinker with, without any garantee it will pass smog. I myself think its over priced. But Im not sure if I will be able to find anything else anytime soon. What do you guys think? -Brian

Nice pix. I suggest running Gallery on your website to make uploading, managing and displaying your pictures alittle easier. http://gallery.menalto.com/ Its what I use, I love it. That EA81 is lookin real sharp!

Yeah i already called him on it. Apparently his donation time has run out and his PM box size shrunk. I talked to him a couple weeks ago and he said he'd be back to re donate, but i know he has very limited access to the PC. Might be best to ring him. -Brian

yeah after hearing that I would definatly suspect the ignition switch. And I was curious cause Auburn California is located an hour from me... however Auburn Washington is not -Brian

I meant which state heh Not likely, however clicking is a sign that the starter isnt getting enough juice. If the battery is putting out 12v then i would check all the connections to make sure nothing is loose or corroded. -Brian

Auburn where? Check grounds and all connections. Even if they look good, i'd still remove them and go over them with a wire brush. -Brian

Battery connections are the first place I look to when I have electrical problems. Expecially a problem like this, its OBVIOUSLY a loose connection. No matter how clean your terminals seem to be, it only takes a day or two in the right conditions to cause enough corrosion to stop continuity.

Hrm, looks like the very 1st reply knew what the problem was.

could be a bad knob. I had a dimmer knob on my RX that didnt work. Luckily, it malfunctioned with the lights as bright as they could get.

Wish I could give you credit... The switch I am talking about IS NOT on the steering column. The dimmer is located to the left of the colum, near the rear defrost button.

There is an adjustable knob on your dash that you use to adjust the brightness of your dash lights. Its possible this is turned all the way down... do you know where the knob is? And stick with the NGK plugs. -Brian

$200 for a XT6 AND you got to drive it home??? You should go play the lottery tonight. You are one lucky man!!

Jeremy I was lookin at those trails last night when you sent me that link. Alot of them seem to be more for Advanced riders. Alot of great looking terrain, i definatly wanna try some out someday -Brian

That map is kinda confusing Dave. it shows more than just one trail. I posted the other link because it had a description and a couple photos of the trail itself. I heard on the news it was supposed to get up to the 70s up there this weekend That should help a bit.

There is no front driveshaft. Unless you have a divorced transfer case... but you don't. If the vehicle is in motion, the rear driveshaft will rotate wether or not the car is in 4WD or not. If the vehicle is not in motion, but the front tires are spinning, and the rear driveshaft is rotating, but the rear tires are not spinning. Then the only thing it can be would be the diff or the CV joints. However, if it were the CV's you would hear it. If it were the diff, you should be able to hear it as well.. unless you did a good job stripping all the gears off it.

I have a crazy idea. Put it in 4WD! Make sure the 4WD linkage isnt broken or out of adjustment. With the lift, it may look like its in 4WD but actually be in FWD. Start simple, then work your way back.

http://theflumetrail.com/ridingmap/description.html NV Zeno suggested that trail. I think it looks like a great trail to start the season off with. Anyone have any idea when it will be clear of snow?

Its just common knowledge really. Better exhaust = better performance. I believe the stock exhaust pipe is 2.25" but I maybe wrong. 2.5" would be a decent increase, you still need backpressure with a N/A engine so you dont want to go super huge. Right now, my car has no muffler. There really isnt much of a performance gain because its a turbo car and I still have the stock downpipe... the turbo cant tell if i have a muffler or not (but my ears can ) Any muffler shop should be able to piece together a decent setup for under $300.

Are you going to offer complete intake manifolds or just weld on adapters? This maybe just what I need to move out of the smog nazi state of CA