TheSubaruJunkie

10k is nothing. 250k is what your shooting for. And with increased boost, added intercooler, no BPV will make a short life for your turbo. -Brian

You want to use BPV not a BOV (bypass valve, not a blow off valve). The air travels past your MAF and the ECU tells the injectors to account for that air. Once you shift and blow that air to the atmosphere, your injectors are expecting that metered air and is supplying the fuel for it, and without it you get a rich condition. It will make the car slugish after shifts. Sounds cool, but performs like crap. A Bypass valve performes exactly like a BOV except it dumps the air back into your intake, after the MAF... so the metered air stays in circulation and your air/fuel mixture doesnt change. I used a BPV from a Saab 900 turbo. It was manufactured by Bosch and you can find em real cheap on ebay, or next to free in the junkyard. Tricky part is plumbing it back into your intake. I kinda rigged something up like this on my old RX: And here it is installed with the SAAB Intercooler:

JB weld will patch it, but you need to clean the area REAL good! Down to the bare metal if you can, and remove any of the oil residue. Then it will take a good 6-18hrs for the JB weld to cure. You can get the fast acting JB weld but even then I think it needs 3hrs to cure. It'll get you home at least. -Brian

Wow that brings back memories! I remember when I set that up. Easy on the eyes, but a pain to input new articles. Anyhow, yeah I bought USMB.net and Ultimatesubaru.net in '03. I only got 5 year subscriptions so they run out in '08. Thats why we now have .org and both the .nets will soon disapear. -Brian

Have any of you guys got one of these to work in their subaru yet? I want to see some before and after MPG numbers Im curious how something like this would work on a forced induction system? Turbo or supercharged. If you route the HHO tube to the manifold, pressure created by the turbo would push gasses back instead of sucking them in. And if you put the HHO in before the turbo, im affraid the heat generated by the turbo itself would combust the HHO. Regardless, I would like to see this topic stay on topic so we dont get 7 pages of Global Warming debates.

With the current price of gas, im expecting to pay $400 round trip.

Find another shop. Im sure there's a restoration shop somewhere in sacramento that will be willing to help you. Just gotta be willing to pay for it. Sounds like the shop you talked to today didn't want your business.

NEW JOB?!?!?!? AWESOME DUDE! If gas prices keep up the way they are... i may have to cancel too

Cant get any more steps than that. pretty basic swap. Your hatch is no different than any other Subaru as far as the rear end is concerned.

Home depot sucks for hardware... goto ACE or a REAL hardware store. Not a home improvement store.

So who here has done a 22R head? I have to replace the head on my toyota. Im reading the FSM i have, and im wondering if there are any tips or tricks I can use to avoid some of the more difficult work... like the timing chain? If I remove the sprocket and keep the chain attatched, is it possible to reinstall the sprocket with the new head and not have to worry about timing? Stuff like that. Thanks -Brian

Tell him you saw it already and let him know what you'll offer him. Also, did he mention it passed smog or not?

Hotels? HAH!

$2k wow!! I myself wouldnt pay more than $1000 for it, and thats IF it passes CA smog which is getting hard and harder these days of EA81's. The rust on the drivers rear fender, and the scratches/dent on the passenger front fender alone make it worth $1500ish, and then add the damage he did to the interior with that horrible stereo install and the destroyed front seats take it down to the $1200-$1000 range.

Cool. Should give us plenty of time to get back, i dont think it will take us 3 days to get home but is nice to have that buffer incase something happens. Im going to work on a route soon. Plan is to just take 101 down from Oregon and cut over highway 20 to I5 and back to Sac. -Brian

Keep it stock. You wont get a rear eBrake unless you do the 5 lug swap. You also wont get to use any impreza or legacy suspension unless you do the 5 lug swap. You can get some OEM replacement struts from KYB that are stiffer than stock and it will help alot. You can also replace the front and rear swaybars with those from a XT6 which will also help handling. -Brian

Cause this thread is for people FROM nor*cal who are going to attend the show. I am planning on leaving Thursday night and ariving at the show Friday night. Leave the show on Sunday afternoon and be home by Wednesday. Plenty to see on the way home. Im going to put together a "scenic route" here soon and was wondering who else was interested in tagging along. Sucks you wont be able to go. -Brian

If your buying from a Budget Rental in Las Vegas, stay away from the gold Crystler SeBring... I F'd that car up!! :headbang: But I can tell you the eBrake works great -Brian

I think you got ripped off. Is there anything still useable on that thing?

TTIWWO(more)P Great find Austin.

I had a '86 Brat equipped with AC and he's right. Flip the switch and the car was in slow-mode. However, you dont notice it when your stuck in traffic (which is when you really NEED the A/C) and if your on the freeway or cruising, you always got the T-Top's for A/C -Brian

remove the radiator and backflush it. Also clean all the crap out of between the radiator fins. Chances are it got gummed up with all the off-roading.

Yeah, i got thursday and friday off but i'll be camping I got a big memorial day camping trip this weekend.

If by tomorrow you mean monday, sorry but I gotta work.

Sure i'll go take a look at it, but if the price is right... i might be drivin it home Where's it at?? LOL -Brian