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TheSubaruJunkie

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Everything posted by TheSubaruJunkie

  1. Napa should have a wide variety of spring pins. If you can take the old one with you to match it, or if you have a spare CV to take. Or just goto the counter and have them pull a CV from stock, and use that CV to find the right pin. I would try Napa before any Kragen or Autozone.
  2. Thanks Dave, didn't know I needed your aproval. If/when I do come back, it wont be for long. Just need something to get me to work and back until... well, i got plans
  3. If you want more pictures, you can see my entire gallery here: http://gallery.usmb.net/rx Still miss that car. I had to remove the 15's and install 13" Mags cause the rubbing was so bad.
  4. You can talk all the crap you want about California, and our plates Dave... but at least our plates dont look like they were printed on a laser printer :-p Car looks good Jeremy! Still jealous.
  5. Here's what happend to my RX when I put 2WD XT Struts in it and kept my 15" pugs. The tires are 195/50R15 And this is what happend to my tire anytime I hit a bump:
  6. The same things you need for a rear 5 lug are the same things you need for a rear disk swap. Backing plate Rotor w/hub Caliper I pretty much break it all down here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975 Thats the 4 lug rear disc swap. However, the same applies for 5 lug, just replace with XT6 parts.
  7. In order to do a rear 5lug, you will need XT6 rear calipers, hubs & rotors. XT6's only came with Disk, so if you do a 5lug swap, you have no choice but to convert to disk
  8. Yup... take all the parts that are in the bag, and replace the ones in the carburator with them I was kinda intimidated when I did a rebuild on my Hitachi. What I did was clear off my kitchen table. lay an old towel on the table to work on. Then taped sheets of paper next to my work area on the table. Each sheet of paper represented a step I took in the teardown. I would set the new parts to my left... and when I removed something it went on a sheet of paper to my right. Take your time. Work in a well lit area, and careful not to drop anything on the floor.
  9. Definatly start with a compression check. The $10 harbor frieght gauge is cheap, and it will work, however I recommend a decent $40 or $50 job... ive gotten faulty readings with the $10 harbor freight tool. A good engine will be in the 130 to 160psi range. However this will not reveal a rod bearing, you'll know that when you start the engine.
  10. Do you want to lift or lower it? Make up your mind. There are a million ways to lift your subaru (okay, maybe only 3 or 4)... but there IS a million posts over in the off-road forum. A turbo engine should be the last option for a lifted subaru. Unless you just want to turn heads and never get it dirty. Even then, its kinda lame.
  11. The first mod you should do is install a boost gauge. This way you understand more how a Turbo works and when to expect boost. Not only that, but you will also see what your stock turbo makes. It will differ depending on your elevation. At home I see 9psi at max boost, when im in the mountains i see 11psi. A bone stock EA82T should boost at 7 to 8psi stock with no intercooler. You add an intercooler and that will drop to probably 5psi. Your ECU will cut fuel at 11psi if I remember correctly. Maybe its 14psi, again it can depend on elevation. Regardless, anything below 10 is safe but only with a propperly installed intercooler and bypass valve. Notice how I said bypass valve and not a blow off valve. The EA82 Turbo will not make huge power, but its a decent engine. its a very good learners engine. If you have any questions about anything I just discussed (bypass valves, intercoolers, PSI in relation to atmospheric pressure) then you are not yet ready to do a TD04 and top mount swap. I also suggest you put the stock air filter box in place. Unless you already have done exhaust mods, your intake mod is near useless and will cause more harm than good in the long run. -Brian p.s. Welcome to the board.
  12. I cant tell you how many times ive chased engine problems only to find it was a plug or a plug wire. Anything from a simple miss, to engine's stalling. ECU codes, to backfiring... Now if I experience any type of engine problem, I replace the plugs and wires first... and if it doesnt solve the problem, then I start chasing down other parts. -Brian
  13. Different angle, Gen1 Brat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmQVTj2D8Rw&feature=related
  14. Glad to hear you guys made it without having to be towed home this year! NV_Zeno & I also took 101 down, but we did the entire ORegon coast. THen hit highway 36. 36 leads from Eureka to Red Bluff, about 120 miles of twists, turns, ups and downs. Was great fun, wish the car wasn't loaded down... but was still a great drive. Glad you guys had fun. I know I did. And yeah, my CV is starting to click alittle louder than usual. Im wondering if the beach drive was worth it..... ...DAMN RIGHT IT WAS!! Cant wait till next year! -Brian
  15. Well there you go... all toyota parts and all jeep parts. With my "google images". Still, the toyota hands down! Well, thats not very "stock" but I'll play your game: Take the cage off the Toyota, and your looking at about the same amount of lift, with the same size tires..... Glad we're both still on the same page. Let me tell you from experience. The Toyota would be pulling the XJ back to camp at the end of the night. The same could be said for Jeep, Subaru, Suzuki... anyone.
  16. 3 Eyed, its obvious you have no clue what you are speaking of. A stock XJ is not "more capable" than a stock Toyota pickup. Here is a '84 Toyota: and here is your beloved XJ: Both in stock form. Anyone with two eyes would put their money on the Toyota.
  17. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91432
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