subie94

i wanna move where you are.to my knowledge there's no ORV parks here on the east coast.atleast not near me. though i do know where a very long unpaved road is.think it's about two or three miles long

glad to hear she's ok (jess) looks like the gt could be fixed.as long as the engine wasn't damaged. tell jess next time she wants to make a hard 90 degree turn,use the e-brake to whip the back-end around.

:lol: :lol:

as much fun as it looks to take a subie for a swim.i just wouldn't want to have to deal with the aftermath if my engine happens to take in any water or even worse.ecm getting fried or something. i think i'll just go with light trails an mud for now.(when ever i get a chance to)

granted it's a 94 but all she has on her is 148,336 on her as of this morning. pic was taken a day ago

glad to hear you converted sounds like you got yourself a nice subie. what i wouldn't give for a turbo welcome to the board

i'd use a 1/2" drive breaker bar.but of course i've broken those too.

i can't find my manual,it's somewhere. on the back of the fuse panel box,there's usually a decal showing which fuse is what.

that'd be so cool to have!!! (the car,no need for a kid)

that should only turn on exterior parking lights. that's just weird,cause normally all lights go off with ignition switch.Hmmm well if your worried about the battery.you could always disconnect it.sorry i couldn't be of more help

all the lights on the dash or just the ones on the instrument panel? not to knowledgable with imprezas but on the switch for the hd/lights,i know on some cars i've owned there's a seperate switch for the dash lights. (so you can light up the dash without putting the hd/lights or other outter lights on)

maybe there's a way you could by pass the e-brake switch so there's power going to the switch on the dash all the time. have you gained access to where the e-brake switch is.how many wires is leaveing the e-brake switch.probably one wire going to dash switch and one going to the light on the guage panel.if that's the case then jump the e-brake switch with a splice connection and hook it to the wire going to the dash switch. (maybe?)

Hmmm...an they go on with your e-brake? that's a first for me. well you could find out were at the e-brake the switch is then re-route the wiring to where ever you put the switch on the dash. did that help??

my guess would be to disconnect the top light from the factory wires an run new wires to what ever switch you put in. i take it your talking about the third brake light,right? that's how i'd do it.

is the rear drive shaft connected?? sorry i just had to ask.

http://www.sullivantire.com/pdfs/bendixbrakes.pdf these are the brake pads i used-bendix CT-3 granted they were really quiet an dust free.now that i think of it maybe it wasn't the ceramic pads that fried the rotors.could have been from the old pads. are you asking my legacy that?:-p (that's her name)

it's always nice to hear about fellow subie owners that are willing to help another subie owner out.

i hope my 2.2 doesn't have hydraulic tappets. and yes i can understand you fine

you gotta have that at least twice a week. so,hey if next year we all want to try an do the e.burke campground again.maybe we could go here for lunch or something. it's about half-way up the toll rd see we could all sit down for a pow wow :-p East Burke - The Burke Hollow Cemetery - (When you drive by it at night or walk past it seems as though there is something watching you from the tree lines and movement through out the cemetery at night.)

you wouldn't know how difficult it is to adjust or fix the valve tappet prob? if first i thought maybe it's a stuck valve or something but i ran something that's supposed to clean but to no prevale....

now how would one figure out the final ratio? wouldn't the owners manual tell me what it is?

just drop the rear-end and cross-member as on,that's how i did it when i helped a friend strip a wagon.after dropping it,i just un-bolted one end of each tank straps and also had to remove the plastic shield(found out they'll hold a tank up) after that it came right out.(you might want to disconnect the fuel lines an wires for the sending units through access panels in the bk)

i had a set of ceramic pads on my 99 dodge avenger and i used to drive it really hard(gas,brakes,etc) i found that the rotors got cooked after about a month.not to mention they turned black. if i ever go ceramic again,i'm gonna also go with slotted/drilled rotors so i don't cook a set of stock legacy rotors.

when is it again??

wish i did,all i have is 4.11 for gears... back when i had my gl-10.i used to take it through mud.that's all i'd get the rpms up till turbo would kick in then go. interesting getting a four wheel rooster going.