BlueTrain

Just thought id let y'all know that the best dino juice for the EA 82, Castrol GTX, is on sale over at Checker Auto. Gallon jugs are 5.56 and quarts are 1.39.

compass and a map.. available in most stores...

yep, and VERY shallow..

yep, ive noticed this too.. the drivers compartments seem to maintain good space.. ive been told the spare tire design forces the motor down to the ground instead of the driver/passenger area in a head -on, but not quite sure if thats true or not..

ya, the cupholder thing is quite easy.. euro jr works well.. i took a 1x, cut it to fit the coin holder next to the ebrake, and hot glued it there.. then i took one of theose window mount type cupholders, cut the arm that goes between the glass and door off, and screwed the bottom of the cupholder part to the wood. works fantastic...

i got some Autolite pro-fits at Checker for 20 bucks. pre cut and all their lengths are darn near perfect..

bad struts? motor mounts?...

if you're going to use it for a backwoods hunting rig, i'd go with a late 80's yota 4x4.. bone stock it will get you wherever you want to go. dependable as hell too. http://yotatech.com/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12 both forums should help you with your toyota questions...

maybe an inner cv joint.. perhaps an outer.. how do the boots look?

ya, im thinkin im just going to clear the codes and see if it pops up. ive never had the cel come on, i was just checkin to see if anything had been stored. seems to start fine.. when cold fires up after about 1.5 -2 sec with the key turned. when warm starts up instantly.

check the codes, then post results..i'd also bet that if you searched for "hard start" or something like that, you'd get some helpful threads as well..

sooo anyone with any ideas regarding the 2 crank angle sensor codes.. apparently the crank angle sensor is in the disty. it starts fine, which i think wouldn't be the case if the disty was faulty. i guess im just wondering if something else could be causing the code 11 and 13 to come up.. thx

ya, good thing you're ok.. y'know ive almost been in way too many dingers lately, usually due to someone with one hand on their phone and one hand on the wheel. i think they should pass a law like the one where if you use a firearm when committing a felony its an extra 2 years. so, if you get into an accident while using a cell phone, penalty is higher. ok.. mini rant over.. talk amongst yourselves...

well, im still atryin to get this rough idle thing worked out. So, anyways, today i checked it for codes. nothin has tripped the cel, but thought why not. well, without the connectors connected, light blinks rapidly 5 times, then delay, then 5 times, and so on.. i assume this just means o2 sensor is workin. well, with the connectors connected, i get 2 codes.. one is 11 and the other is 13. both appear to be "crank angle sensor" related.. so, anyone have any experience with these codes? would a faulty crank angle sensor cause a rough idle? Thanks...

hmmm alternator?

did you ever replace the O2 sensor. those can suck your mpg's. out here in montucky we have the winter blend (10% ethanol) gas right now, and that drops me down to about 23-25mpg mixed driving. have you changed the gear oil recently? a good gear oil can give you an extra 1-2mpg's if your other stuff was old and wasted..

ya, below 20 @2500-3000 is rather low.. Snowman was right when he said at least 10 per 1000 rpm...my EA82 idles at about 5-10 @ idle, but runs 30-35 @3000rpm when warm..

doh, there was a screw.. PITA to get at i might add.. used an old cd for a mirror to see the screw..

i think someone posted something like this recently.. not sure.. anyways, i think they said it was bad bushing, or loose disty shaft... something like that was causing some grinding/scraping noise...

ok, im changing out the cap and rotor on my rig, and was wondering the best way to get the darn rotor off. its a hitachi disty, with a screw less rotor. do i just yank the heck out of it? thought id ask b4 i busted something i shouldn't..thanks...

ya, don't replace any of your parts with anything by Fram... bad stuff. i'm not sure if your car has an egr valve, but if it does, id check that as well. im currently in the same boat (low, shaky idle when warm) so i know how it feels. hows the fuel filter.. a partially clogged one can cause a low idle too.

yep, thats about right. my cap says Hitachi right across the top.. 92 Loyale spfi

Well, regarding the IAC valve.. how do i know if it is stuck open or not? if i take off the air inlet hose, i see a skinny white plastic piece down in there. this is when the engine is warm. i'm hoping skip will chime in here, as he appears to be the guru of the IAC problem.. thanks..

alrighty, darn it.. thought maybe i'd found the problem.. thanks

ok, while checking for the purge control solenoid in an attempt to correct this idle problem, i found this hose coming off the bottom of the round fuel evap cannister. It is about 8-10 inches long and not connected to anything. should it be? and what is it? thanks....