lmdew

Check the Throttle body hoses.

Disconnect the cable at the transmission and shift it into park or N to start the car.

Passenger side of the transmission, you will see the linkage coming down. There a clip that holds the cable on to the transmission, remove it and then see if the cable moves. If the shifter is still locked up, its in the shifter/cable. If the cable is OK try shifting the transmission by hand, car OFF so you don't run yourself over.

Thanks, I'll take a closer look. Yes all the fuel filter hoses are hooked up and are in good condition.

I did a 98 2.5 to 2.2 swap. I sold the car, a few months later, the new Owner said they smelled fuel in the car. I always use the original 2.2 canister up front. I looked over all the fuel lines including the fuel pump and sending unit. I could not find any leaks. Anyone have an idea or had this problem before?

Lots of aftermarket filters/screens (which really don't need to be changed) come with a pan gasket. Leave the pan in place and flush the fluid is all that required unless you have other work to do in the trans.

Thanks

YOu can still clear coat, the sanding levels the paint and preps it for good adhesion of the clear.

I have a 99 EJ25 SOHC from a Forster, can I use the old style T Belt Tensioner on it if I switch over the mounting block? Thanks, Larry

The large fitting on the bottom goes to the Oil seperator on the back of the block and then oil drains down to the pan. The top fitting goes to the PVC valve on the intake. The 1/2" fitting coming off the middle goes to the Intake air box on the back of the intake manifold. Depending on the year and model, it goes to different locations. Look over the airbox and you will see the fitting.

First, don't drive it over filled, its bad for the trans. To get the pan to seal to the trans, both surfaces must be Clean, Clean, Clean. Then a nice even coat of RTV, I like the grey. bolt it up a little at a time in a cross pattern, and only to the proper torque. Then let it set for 24 hours to let the RTV cure. You should be all set. If its way over full, it may be leaking from the dipstick tube, where it goes into the trans.

You should be able to tilt it some and get it out of there.

Thanks, good info.

Just trying to find out where the Forster has been. Thanks

If someone could run this VIN that would be great: JF1SF6350XH718604 Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks Larry

The auto flex plates are different sizes. Some of the flywheels had a little step in the flywheel so the clutch engaugement was slightly different. It should be fine.

I've pulled many engine from the yard and only got one with a bad rod bearing, that one the filter was crushed. I rolled the dice on the engine thinking it may have happened at the yard. No such luck. Was the car in a crash, I like those the best as you can pretty much say they were running when it happened. Pull the injector connectors one at a time and see if the sound changes.

I've welded a few of them in CO. I think its a weak point of the system.

I always watch at the yard for a car that has newer KYB struts. $35 each its a steal. I trashed good rust free top hats a week ago.

To new for me, but I know from 90-99 the blower motor is held in with 3 screws.

Check the main engine harness connectors and make sure they are moisture free, clean and tight. The fuel pump is trying to keep pressure in the system and the #3 injector is being powered and porting pressure. The injector is most likely good, you have an electrical issue. You can verify this by swapping the injector plug to the back injector, if that one starts acting up it's electrical!

The two bottom bolts on the strut should have been just bolts, straight through. There is NO camber adjustment on the rear struts, unless you put the after-market strut bolts in. The only adjustment on the rear is the toe, which is done at the inner tie rod bolts. You could not have changed a thing. The next time you change a strut, but the brake line bracket and slip the brake line out. That way you will not have to bleed the brakes. Just cut a slot in the end and bend it opena and then bend it back. Some like to cut a slot top and bottom so there is no bending. Larry

I've always installed the front from the 95, but also leave the rear in place. No Cels. You just need to grab the canister and bracket. The holes are all there.

I'd take the old on to a radiator shop and have them match it. Prices are very competive on radiators, so the price should be close. What is the Month your car was made? I'd also take the VIN # along. Most of them I've delt with are all the same, there are some differences on some on how the fans mount.

Anything is possible given enough time and Money. I believe there are some ECU wiring differences that will need to be taken care of. Check www.car-part.com and see if they have a good engine for you. Less time and may be less money. Larry