lmdew

Pull the center counsel up, you will find two screws at the front Lift the cneter counsel lid and remove the 4 scress I think that it, but there may be a couple on the back side down by the floor Now you have full access to the brake handle. If you don't need the cables, cut them and unbolt the handle. You've got it out. Do the same on your car (don't cut the cables :>) adjust the cables per the book. Easy job 30 min and your done.

My son's 93 Turbo wagon does the same thing. I have not found a fix yet. The fluid change/flush had no effect. It works when cold, so I do not think its the clutch pack.

Check out the NAPA filter and pan gasket. The gasket is much better!

Pull the plug at the top of the engine just behind the IAC and you can see the flex plate and 4 bolts. You could also grab the fwd drive shafts and see if you get a lot of movement at the output shaft of the fwd diff. I could be a diff problem, but sounds like a flex plate. I've tossed a few of these already. Check with someone that has done the auto manual swap.

Contacts in the starter are getting bad. Moisture makes the problem surface in the AM. New starter or have the contacts in the solenoid replaced by any starter shop. If you want a good used starter to put in, send me $20 to cover the shipping and I'll send one out. Larry

Pay for the Trans band adjustment at a good Subaru Shop and then if it checks OK take it. If the guy won't let you pay for this service, skip the car. Shif differences are normal as the trans ages. A band adjustment will take care of most of it.

ERG Valve is on the 95. The biggest reason to install a 95 is its the last year of a non-interference engine. If you need a good one, go to www.ccrengines.com. They will even build one with cams to regain the minimal power difference. The Impreza 2.2 will also work, but check the flex plates. The Impreza is about 1/2" dia smaller. Don't ask how I know! I've done two of these swaps and I'm happy with the results. If you get the power steering lines and the fitting off the pump, you can change the lines over as well. I also grab the purge canister and bracket that is bolted to the right front frame rail. Then you only have one vaccum line to plug.

What are you torquing it to? Most books have the torque wrong, take it to 120-125 ft lbs. Make sure the pulley, key and cam are still in good condition.

Read out the ECU Codes to see if any are set.

Check and make sure the crankshaft pulley bolt is tight and its running true. If it were moving around, it could effect the crankshaft sensor. Outside chance, but the only one I can think of.

You need to bleed the system. Jack the front of the car as high as possible! Remove the upper hose and slowly fill the system. When the upper hose will take no more collant, connect it to the radiator Continue to fill the system through the radiator cap with the bleed plug removed. Burp the system, squeeze the upper and lower hose. When you get no more bubbles, start the car and let warm up Collant should start to come out of the radiator cap, install the cap and let it get to normal temp. Shut the car down and let it cool. Collant should be pulled out of the overflow bottle and into the radiator. Complete the warm-up & cool down cycle a couple of times. Take the car off jacks and test drive. Subarus get air locked and coolant does not flow.

Sell it to me, I have a 99 engine that needs a home!

CCR is Great, their Product is the BEST!

Solid metal no rubber or plastic

Most of the time they are damaged as well. Get used ones that are good.

I'm in Portland for three days, out by the airport. If the micro beer is cold and you have two or three gallons of fluid, I'll do the flush for you in a matter of 30 minutes. Needed: Drain pan and wrench 19mm I think Screw driver and a lenght of 3/8" plastic hose 2' long Larry.

Take it to 125 ftlbs. Larry

6 or 12" extension 10mm socket 10mm wrench pliers and a screw driver. Real easy to pull. You could pull yours first and take them and match them up.

Look in the owners manual if you have it. If not, with the key on, push the reset button under the dash. Its about 3/8" dia, with a 1/8 pin to push. Mine was just fwd of the lower dash panel in the outside corner.

Is there excess play at the fwd diff input shafts, where the axles pin to?

A fluid change every 30,000 or once a year will give you long life for the trans. I believe your car takes Dexron II, which has been replaced by Dexron III. Lots of folks like the Redline fluids.

Make sure the brakes are not dragging, the car is aligned properly, change the O2 sensor.

Send me $35 and I'll send you a good used one. Lmdew@hotmail.com

Not hard, the bottom nut can be a pain sometimes. Otherwise disconnect the battery, pull the positive lead and switch wire off the starter. Pull the bottom nut 17mm, pull the top bolt 14mm. Put it all back the other way.

Look at the back of the crank gear. You will see 4 teeth sticking up from the back of the flange. The one with the tick mark gets lined up with the tick mark on the block. DO NOT USE THE ARROW on the Front of the crank pulley! This is a common mistake. Make sure you jack the car up as high as you can when you fill the cooling system. Open the bleed plug and fill it slowly. When full flex the upper radiator hose to force the air out. These engine trap air very easy and if you get an airlock you may overheat. Torque the crank bolt to 125 Ftlbs. Most of the manuals tell you 90 which is too low.