lmdew

I'll try it again in the morning. I did keep on turning the key on/off. 15 times or so. Thanks

I've tried several different programs from the web. None of them put the system in the program mode. This Forester does have the Security system on it. Here's the one that seems to be the correct sequence but again, the car is not going into the program mode, indicated by the beep. Sit in driver's seat and unlock all doors. Open and close the driver's doorTurn the ignition key from LOCK to ON position 10 times within 15 seconds. Be sure to stop at both lock and on. The horn will HONK once to indicate transmitter programming mode is activated. Leave key in LOCK position and don't remove it from ignition.You now have 45 seconds to complete the programming as below.Open and close driver's door again.Push either lock or unlock button on the remote you want to program. The horn will honk 2 times when successful.To continue and program other remotes at the same time: open and close the driver's door and push lock or unlock on the remote. The driver's door must be opened and closed between each remote you want to program.Done programming? remove the key from the ignition and the horn will honk 3 times. Thanks, Larry

I'm sure they press the bearing in and then bond the top and bottom half with the rubber/or whatever material it is.

Looks the same as your top picture.

Might be better off buying one that has not been crashed and needs an engine. It may be less work and costs effective.

Metal retainer on the bottom. Lots of grinding and then you'd have to weld a retainer back in to keep the bearing from coming out. Pulled an 07 Forester struts off yesterday and checked.

They all pretty much interchange. Some of the Seatbelt latches are different so you may have to swap the catch over from the old seat. You may have the wiring in your car for the heated seats. If not, the stock wiring runs all the way over to the passenger side, down the door and back to the middle. Forester seats sit about 1 1/2" higher. Most yards are NOT selling seats with airbags in them. So if you want a newer seat, cut all of the airbag electrical harness and labels off before you check out.

She's got the need for speed. Years ago, I put a nut on my brothers Moto Guzzi throttle cable so he only had limited throttle. After he missed a shift and bent valves.

GD thanks for the Link. 25 washers for $11 shipped. I've been reusing the stock ones for years, replacing with Subaru washers as needed. Always nice to have spares on hand.

I've had ignition switches fail with the same symptoms. If you have a spare switch, you can just plug it in under the dash at the connector and see if the new/used one works. If you do have to remove the old one, drill out the bolts and just use common hardware to go back in.

Amsoil and WIX filters.

POR 15 products are great! https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Top-Coat-DTM-Paint

What's driving the change?

Great, I have lots of units to do a few on.

Thanks for the info for those in need down the road.

Yep, and please teach the young ones to check oil ever gas fill up! Take a good look under the hood check the fluids and check tire pressure as well. On Subaru watch that temp gauge, they run at the same spot all the time. If temp is climbing you have a problem. Check it! For fun, I've fixed and sold many Subaru, keeping them on the road. I always off to teach/show the new the owner above. If a Teen is interested in learning to change oil and do basic maintenance they are always welcome in my garage. Larry

Full Synthetic is pretty cheap. Amsoil is my go to for the 2006 and 2018 Forester. In my 2000 Impreza I use to use dino 5-30 Quaker State, but the last time Synthetic was almost the same price. If you figure in extended drain intervals going Full Synthetic is even cost effective.

The backs will fit, but I believe you will have problems with the front fitting over the calipers. One way to find out, put them on.

www.car-part.com

Best to walk away! There are plenty of good Subaru's out there.

Yes, that pic will help. It depends on the buyer. If they are going to keep it a long time, the salvage title may not be a big deal to them. If they plan on selling it a year down the road, the title status is big. $1000 - $2000 off the market price with the salvage title. You might do better. Never hurts to ask. If no one is knocking on your door you will know the price is too high.

1+

- $2000 for a salvage title. Depends on the market in your area. It's nice you know the details. If you have pics of the damage post those as well.

Was the timing off when you pulled the belt? If it was on or only a tooth or 2 you should be fine. Time it and then crank it over by hand. Everything feel good? You can hand crank and check for compression at each cylinder. Hand cranked compression has its limits but its a indicator.

Some times Luck is with you! I"ve had a couple of these.