Qman

Sorry Gary, your numbers are right but the rest is inaccurate. The 2.5 is not plug and play. You have to play with wiring and connectors and manifolds and such. As one of the few on this board who have done this swap with success and increases across the board in performance feel free to pm or email me for specifics Burton.

Chances are the connector has melted and is now shorting out. As Northwet described it is located under the steering column. Usually a pink connector but could be brown also. Comes down from the ignition switch. Also. there are screws that hold the electrical part of the switch to the keyed part of the ignition switch. You can replace just that part.

Gary, the other post has all the disadvatages listed. It is a hack job at best. Guarranteed to devour axles, mounts and possibly even struts/mounts.

Check the hill holder. It seems to point to that as you stated that it was in neutral in both. Just loosen the nut on the hill holder cable. It is located on the top end of the clutch fork.

The box on top of the coil is part of the ignition. Sorry Skip, not a suppressor. However, check the fuse box. There will be a fuse marked ignition. Check it and the fusible links in the engine compartment. Check for power at the coil as well. You may have a bad condensor, points or even cap as well. Find where you lose elictricity and work from there.

That is the issue. We have dealt with the same things before here. People just didn't realize what we do. Or, for that matter, how we do it. The bigger rig will do all the trails that the little one can do much easier. The little one can do some of the trails the big one can do with breakage and a lot of effort. It is still driver that makes any rig do what it does, and laws. Our laws are starting to change regarding off-roaders. We don't have inspections and such that are as stringent as yours but they are headed that way all the same. It really is like comparing apples and oranges when comparing 3-4" standard lifts with 6"+ with transfer cases and such.

Never stopped anyone from doing a V-8 conversion, and shouldn't hold up a 3.3 conversion either. You may have to make it a mid-engine though.

It appears that this event has been postponed until further notice.

Then simply say that. The conversation between the two of you can easily be misunderstood. As far as Chilton and copyright infringement. Most of the time they get the manuals from the source or just buy them like any one else could. Chilton does claim to do complete tear down and rebuild. Although I don't quiet agree with some of the info I have seen over the years.

Next RallyCross RallyCross #8 Oct 8 Organized By : ORG (Oregon Region) This Sunday is the last rallycross of the 2007 year! For season end points, we will be scoring the best 6 out of 8 events. The weather just might hold out on us enough to have a wonderful last event. The rallycross course design will be by one of our FWD VW hardcore ralliers, Chris Sample. Course will again be at Washington County Fairgrounds. Run classes are as follows: AM session: CLASSES: M2, M4, PA, TO REGISTRATION: 8-9am DRIVER'S MEETING: 9:15am FCO: 9:30am PM session: CLASSES: SF, SR, SA, PF, PR, TO REGISTRATION: 12-1pm DRIVER'S MEETING: 1:15pm FCO: 1:30pm This is a great course design and I expect to see some great competition out there as well! Cost is $30 non ORG/SCCA members or $25 for members. The next rallycross won't be until March 2007, so get your fix in this Sunday! A schedule of 2007 rallycross dates will be posted shortly. VOLUNTEERS: Always needed and always appreciated! Set-up in the morning, starting at 6:30am Tech inspection 8-9am & 12-1pm Water truck driver - CDL preferred. Please let me know if you are able to volunteer to help out at this weekend's rallycross or if you know someone who might be interested. April Smith ORG Rallycross Manager For more information contact rallycross@oregonrally.com

Call Aarons in Seattle. Tom or Brian should know if they interchange. 206.243.4665

That is true for the D/R. However, I am not sure that the '81 is the same as the rest. The linkage should be different but I am not positive as I never took the trans out of my '81.

Excellent explanation. And all true!!

My set up is for lights and a winch. It is all ran by a 165amp Alternator provided by Premier Power.

Results are up. http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/RC092406.html

You really shouldn't be able to hear it "spinning up". Check for looseness(bearings) and freeplay(easy to spin).

No they did not. However, (not sure if this is the one) but Ken has an EJ powered Brat. I don't remember if they added the AWD or kept the D/R. Glad to hear that all ended well even though it cost a few(many) bucks to recover it.

There are two types of waterpumps. One has a cast impeller and one has a pressed and formed one. The cast one is the hit. The only other issue may be in the clutch fan if it is still equipped.

Even more amazing is seeing the same things get said over and over.

I don't recall the ratio but the .035" sounds about right. Ideally, you want to measure a roll of dimes. You'll see that they differ by as much as .010".

Not true. EJ22T harnesses will work for the conversion. Need to add a couple extra wires and it's good to go. David, if you are considerring this swap you really need to talk with someone who has done it. Not those who think they know the answers. If you are serious and need info and people to talk to pm me for that info.

I did post about shims back when I built the ER27. Shim thickness does matter as if you go to thick the pushrod runs the risk of bottoming out. I did use dimes for my shims and told Delta about it. Chuck Sand told me about the dimes as he used them in his XT6's as well. So, when Delta tells you that they get used in race engines they are speaking the truth. Get a roll of dimes and a caliper to measure with. Get 16 dimes that are the same thickness. You will find that a roll of dimes produce about 3 or 4 different thicknesses. Find them install them and forget about them. They do not move once you install them but make sure that you do not go too thick as the oil cavity will not line up and that will cause issues with oiling. Good luck, look into some sort of engine management as well. Are you still running mega squirt?(iirc) Note, They do not just regrind the cams for the EA82's. They weld up the lobe and grind the back side down the same amount as they build up the front. The cam case is the reason for this. If they just regrinded them the lift would not change and you wouldn't get much increase in duration either.

All EA82's use the same tank. Yes, trans and crossmember, driveshaft, rear diff, axleshafts, rear hubs and brakes, rear shocks. Now the swap is actually pretty easy. You just disconnect the brakes lines and driveshaft and remove the whole rear sub frame. Something like 16 bolts I believe and it will be sitting on the ground. The electrics will need to be added for the trans. Change the shifter and it should be ready to go. Now all of this depends on how easy the bolts come out. Considerring your location it may be a bigger challenge to get the bolts out than it will be to do the swap. You will want to also swap the front axleshafts and struts(4wd is heavier duty than 2wd). Have fun

They were used for 4 of my Subaru motors. Two 1.8 OHV motors, an ER27 and an EJ25. All had excellent results. Tell them(Scott and John) that Ken sent you. You'll pay the same price(which is low for custom cams) but they'll make sure you get what you need. They have sponsored my rallyx'ers and have been part of the West Coast Subaru Show for 3yrs now.

What do diffs have to do with anything? Most of the quads today are 4wd, so they have diffs. And if you read the specs you noticed that they are not capable of supporting any Subaru other than the Buggy.