MR_Loyale

True. I thought the egr was just a useless piece of emissions crap (and it is) but when I replaced mine on my FWD Manual Loyale sedan, my mileage jumped from 24 to 29. EGR recirculates unburned gases and therefore helps scavenge more mpg.

EA81 and EA82 refer to the engine designation. That is the number stamped om the engine block. As for the speed sensor, you might want to try clearing the code fist to see if it was a transient occurrence. If it comes back it may be an issue but of no I wouldn't worry.

Did you redrill to get the new pattern or did you get an adapter?

I am very sorry to hear this. I have a fondness for these sedans. Definitely fix her up. These cars grow on you and it would be like abandoning family. I hope that human scum that hit your car and drove away is prosecuted to the fullest extent.

Good work. When I left mine sitting for three months it did a very similar thing and turned out to be condensation in the distributor cap. Thanks for posting what you did to fix it. I am betting it will be more reliable now.

And the reason it wouldn't start wassssssss??????? (*HINT*) I ain't no mind reader man. Lol.

Someone mentioned the odo wheels are yellow due to "Cali: sunshine. So they got yellow on every digit on the wheels from the heat from "sitting" yet the seat vinyl has no cracks at all? That is some selective Cali sunshine son. Also someone else mentioned the black was the undercoating. Mine never looked like that until well after 80K of use. To me the pic below looks like they (poorly) powerwashed the undercarriage as the "undercoat" "rust proofing" seems to mysteriously stop partway on the tranny support on each side. Looks like on the "Unicorn", they "rustproofed" the rear diff too: Sloppy Subaru factory covered the identifier plate on the rear diff with that "rust inhibitor". LOL. Maybe the seller meant it had "18K original miles " AFTER they rebuilt it. You can still call it mint condition after that, right?

I may be totally off here but I see red flags in that ad. First off the invoice sticker mentions nothing about the pushbutton four wheel drive which clearly this Loyale has. It says it is "Front Wheel Drive" in the invoice sicker. I don't think that is the original sticker at all but rather one from a FWD like mine. Plus the price is almost exactly what mine cost when I bought it. Surely the pushbutton 4WD version would have cost extra. In general the undercarriage looks to have way more grease than the use of 18K miles would suggest. It has shot CV boots which which suggests usage in excess of 18K. And I have never seen any Loyale with odometer and trip wheels that were yellow on the last wheel. Finally most 4WD Loyales I have seen with mud flaps that are stock say 4WD on them. I have never seen a Loyale with original paint that has so much orange peel. There should be a color code sticker on the driver side strut tower (still got mine). The coolant bottle should have a yellow sticker on it. For those reasons alone I am suspicious of this ad. Definitely would want an in-person inspection.

Slow starts, coast to stop lights. Keep AC off.

I would only purchase it if intended to be a show car. As others have said, the gaskets and seals are 23 (car was actually manufactured in 1992) years old. Mine is also a 1993 and I am the original owner (DD still), so I think i know how these cars age. It was sure fun to see that invoice sticker. Brings back memories. If you had any inklings of buying it as a driver, get that idea out of your mind. It would spring leaks left and right. But as a museum quality show car, perhaps. And for the love of God don't buy it and "mod" it. This is what we call a "survivor" and should be respected as such. An artifact of a different time. As for the price, who knows. I mean they will never make "square" cars again, ever. They are simply not aerodynamic enough to meet tough CAFE standards. If you got $7000 lying around and the means to store and maintain a show car, the go for it. A guy with millions who has an affinity for Loyales might not care much about $7000. A kid saving for college working min wage probably better pass on this one. ETA: Also there should be two keys for that car ( I see only one in the pic). One is a valet key.

We've all been there. No biggee.

Pull one from the junkyard.

Sunday I did a motor flush (oil) and changed the oil in Uno. Switched from synthetic back to regular oil. Was doing long oil intervals (6K) and it clogs the lifters. I am going back to 3K intervals. I also went for a test drive up Port Angeles way and on the way back did a little gambling at the 7 Cedars. I hit a jackpot.

You had an accident recently?

Darn monkeys should stick to Shakespeare and their typewriters.

That's weird. I have had mine in since 2013 and it is still working fine. Did you make sure to lubricate all the mechanisms so they wouldn't stress the actuator? Gee I hope mine isn't about to break.

No need to "rewire the dashboard" lol. You just need to get a main unit that has the features (keyless, alarm, remote start etc) you want and the at least for the keyless entry part all you really need is the power connection and connecting to the two solenoid wires as I have shown. There are about three other wires you tap into that allows you to program the remote to the main unit by jiggling the ignition key typically. The easiest way to find the right wires is using a probe and a wiring diagram. Of course read the instructions of the unit you are installing too.

For the Loyale all you need is a single actuator operating the driver side door locking rod.

You absolutely need relays! The solenoid draws way more power than the digital signal from the "brain" can deliver. In fact you can damage the "brain" if you don't use relays. Not sure if the Brat has any actuators at all. If not you can get two actuators and operate them off the two relay setup I discussed in the post above.

Yeah I did that with my white Loyale Uno. I even added a trunk pop solenoid (I have a sedan) so I could open the trunk using the key fob. The door locks (Loyale) require you to add a solenoid to the driver door with a rod and two relays as most "brains" have a neg pulse for open and a separate neg pulse for closing. This is unlike how the other three Subaru door lock actuators work as they do a sort of self polarity reversal using a motorized switching mechanism. NOTE: If your "brain" uses pos pulses to operate the lock and unlock you will need an additional solenoid to reverse the polarity to use the circuit below. There is a nice lock actuator kit I purchased for mine that also includes the rod for operating the driver side lock. I bought it at cartoys: http://www.cartoys.com/ds-2 Here is it mounted in the driver side door of my Loyale Sedan: The rod and hardware to connect it is in the kit for $20. I walked into my local car Toys shop and bought it. The solenoid closes when the polarity is one way and opens when the polarity is reversed. You need to run the two wires through the door harness bundle into the firewall and you can then access them from inside the car there. Of course you will then need a circuit to revers the polarity depending upon if it is closing or opening. So I used this circuit called a "Resistive Rest at Ground" which uses two relays. I mounted the relays under the left front kick panel. I got relays and sockets off Amazon. Here is a pic of them wired before connecting to the actuator. The white wires connect to the "brain".

Let me see. We had one person who offered to send the manuals to another who offered to scan them for the community benefit, both on their own dime and time. Sounds like an AWESOME idea to help everyone here. Thank you both for your willingness to contribute.

Dressed up properly with that new grill too. I like it.

Probably was the crank angle sensor like GLoyale said in post #8. In the optical version a finely slotted disk spins on the distributor shaft with an optical emitter/detector unit hovering over the slotted disc a bit like a brake caliper on a disc brake. This results in a waveform to the ECU that correlates to the crank angle. Not sure if that is the version in your car though, just the one I am most familiar with.

The only time I experienced bucking on my Loyale, it was an Oxygen Sensor. But it threw a code.

Are those Brussel Sprouts growing out of his beard?