FlyB0y

Yikes! they better have a recall then, I thought I had heard something not so good about luminas, but couldn't find anything concrete .. this one is a '96 .. what year was your friends car?

Well I'm glad u all said it, because I haven't been there physicly yet, but I was thinking the same thing! I have been told that one tie-rod/ball joint has been broken loose, but that's entirely fixable. If I get a chance, I am going to go there and see it in person in the next few weeks, and if it looks doable, I'll get it back on the road and since I just sold a car of mine already, I might just fix it up for her. She already got annother car (chev lumina I tried to talk her into annother subie, but she got a good deal anyway hehe) but the car she has she got such a good deal she could re-sell it and make $500 easy. I was just thinking this morning that at worst I would have to get out my high-lift jack and spread appart the front, get it to the local schwab and new tie-rod/ball joint or w/e it needs.

Ok .. finnally got some pics, here ya go ... lemme know if you would like full size pics, I can email to ya

heya all .. been a while, so I wana take a moment just to say "hi" I'm wondering if I end up at the jy what year and model of alternator would work. Thanks again in advance- Dayn

Heya all, a good friend of mine got into an accident this last week-end, she is ok but her '96 legacy wagon is most likely not going to be repairable. She got hit when pulling into traffic near berian WA on the drivers side front-end pretty hard (enough to buckle the hood a bit) so the frame is probubly shot, however the 2.2 motor should be ok, I will have some picks asap, she might be buying a car of mine for her new transportation, but would like to see what she can get out of the wreck for parts or whole. Over-all the car was in good shape, well main-tained with 160k on it, it's green like one shade lighter than forest green, well anyhow it's in a church parking lot right now but soon it will need to be removed. Please let me know if you or anyone you know might be interested ... thx! **edit** oops I forgot to mention it is a 5-spd

:Flame:WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!! *sry I just love this new emote icon* ... Been a while since I said "HI!" to alot of ya, so "HI!" Sorry, back on topic, right ... I have a '91 Legacy Sport Sedan (turbo) and it's old tranny was full of metal at about the 150k mark, but I got a N/A motors' tranny to replace it, and it's got something like 140k on it I think, so it should last a while, turbos are harder on them I hear, and btw ... the old tranny didn't "fail" it was just needing to be warmed up a while in the morning b4 it would shift, and I replaced it as a precaution mostly, well I got the car back from the guy who was buying it ... long story .. but it's going to be for sale here soon (just have a few minor things to iron out, gas gauge, power antannae, and an odd "hum" from the front end I have yet to identify ... but soon it should be something I can sell an hopefully get caught-up from the 2 mons I was too sick to work ... might have it here soon if I have trouble selling it locally .. anyhow, good tranys .. just have to know their limits, (read not driving them like Freerange (Nells) does :-p )

White?! I want the hood! was it in good shape?

Here's my vanity plate for my XT-6: "XT6 XTC" I'd show ya a picture but I just don't have the plates yet (in the mail) but they are for my newly aquired '88 XT-6. I got the idea from the way they have the model of the XT6 on the title, it's written as an "XTC" and that just seemed to fit so well :cool:

Ok, what's the skinny? Can I use ANYTHING other than the $19.08 per Qt. Subaru PS Fluid or is there something else out there I can buy from a local parts store? I just found a mechanic that happends to have some at his shop and he will pro-rate the cost only problem is I have to go 1 hr away to get it I goto msla alot tho, just don't wana drive too much with it low. It's actually not as low as I originally thought, it is on the stick about 3/8 below the lower part of the cold range on the stick cold, so I guess it's fairly safe to drive. I have been searching the board for some time and have found no answers ... the owner's manual says ONLY Special Subaru PS fluid. Thanks in advance!

Hehe! so true, GD ... I don't think we have to worry about his sabotageing it ... the main reason he didn't drive it is because he was too intimidated by it being a manual ... but that just means I got a great car for only $250! I suspect it is either the pump it's self or the relay ... it's not making any noises except the "click" of a switch when I turn on the key. I don't know if it is the pump ECU or not .. going to be able to check for power to the pump tomarrow I hope. I didn't let the owners know everything I knew when I discovered the lack of fuel presure, but once he dropped it off at the spare lot off eastside hwy, (yes he even got his trailer and hauled it 2 -3 miles for me too!! ) I had my friend shoot some starting fluid as I cranked it, and VROOOOM!!! :clap: first try it growled to life (this was after he had dropped it off and left:-p ) but I did put a bugg in his ear about the cost of a new fuel pump "if that was the problem" since they are about $300 so he really didn't care . All I can say is, this can't be a coincidence since a friend of mine needs a daily driver, and now I have the solution to my delima of what to do with the Legacy Sport. I plan now to make the XT-6 my daily driver and sell him the Legacy Sport (his wife doesn't drive a manual). If the XT-6 proves to be too impractical, I will just sell it. I will get some pics for you all to drool over in the next few days you WILL NOT believe the incredibly clean interior! Even the drivers seat is in pristine condition! Apparently the lady that bought it new in '88 only drove it to church once a week and her husband refused to drive/ride in it since he is a large guy and couldn't fit in it. the only other annoying addition to the car that the 16yr old added are the "bullet hole" stickers all over the drivers side and a "Welcome to Montana now go back home" sticker that he put on back-wards:rolleyes: inside the back window on-top of the rear defrost element . Nothing a lil tea-tree oil can't fix

Great to hear! I have an up-date with a follow-up question. I looked at it again today and confirmed that it has good spark and no problem with at least the pass side T-belt, and if I understand correctly, the ditsy rotor is turned by the driver's side, and it rotates. When I went to check the fuel, I noticed 2 things ... the gas was old (turns out it has been sitting more like 6 mon) and there was fuel in the line, but turning it over produced no more fuel being pumped out. Is it possible that the line can be full of fuel yet not have enough presure to make it run? I didn't remember to bring some starting fluid, but I really think they will bite so they don't have to mess with it themselves. I offered them $150 tonight (about what I can comfortably offer right now) after just getting the Legacy Sport on the road (still needs some tranny work and possibly a wheel bearing) I might see about putting the XT-6 on the road while I figure out what all the legacy needs. Thanks for all the input!

Ok, it's a '88 XT-6 it was running and driving not a month ago, and has technicly one owner (I don't count the spoiled 16 yr old that got it and wants a truck instead) the parents of the 16 yr old bought it from a lady who got it new in '88. The car was driven to the hospital locally, and then quit and wouldn't start again. It has spark and the ditsy turns (I just learned from Nels that doesn't mean the pass timming belt didn't break) it turns over and almost sounds like it will fire but doesn't quite. The body is near perfect (only blemish is where some idiot sat on the hood and made a little dimple) with just a bit of rust in the back side of the front fenders. Paint is still in good shape, all the electonics apear to work including the air-ride suspension, it has a 5-sp and diff lock button. I will see if it has a LSD or not tomarrow if I get a chance. I might be able to buy this car for $150-$200 ... the question is ... if it is worth taking the chance that it is something simple, and should I make it a daily driver? If not, is it realistic to turn it for $1000 after fixing something minor? Or should I just get it and part it out (especially for the 5-lug hubs, and hopefully rare LSD rear?) I would love to have it as a daily driver if it is practical, but all the electronic gizmo's have me skeptical.

ROFLOL!!! :clap: your KILLING me :-p Seriously tho ... there is something to be said for safety, but if your comming from the perspective of Doran VS Motorcycle, it's gonna be Doran hands down from what I have seen so far. I have to say tho, the leaning 3 wheeler (Slalom) is just a sweet idea ... not a pretty looking car, but that GM and Mercedes look pretty sharp!

w00t! finnally someone that has the same taste in brats! I have always thought they were a lil too boxy ... let us know what you come up with! I am always looking for new ideas on how to put some curves on my brat

Ok ... how is it "spraying"? every time you hit the accelerator? (or move the throttle linkage?) If your getting excess gas, check the float. It might be sticking and keeping the float needle from closeing, thus flooding. How farmiliar are you with carbs to begin with?

Ok ... gotta up-date on this ... I don't expect it will be the best price VS a motorcycle/atv shop, but the Kenda rep just told me today that Vision Wheel sells the tires, however when I called them, they said goto Les Schwab, so I am waiting further info from Les Schwab. When I checked prices last, Les Schwab was about 30% more than the local atv dealers, so be aware.

Ahh the wonderfull world of frozen calipers I only want to add one suggestion I would extreamly carefull about what you use to loosen up the piston. Break fluid is a very specialized thing, and if you use the wrong thing to loosen up the piston, it can ruin the rubber seal . I can't say that WD-40 is a bad thing, as I have always just used a brush and a little break fluid to loosen things up, and yes sometimes a Press and I second what has been said about your breaks being spongy. I would get a "mighty vac" which is a special tool for bleeding breaks, they shouldn't cost more than maybe $15-$30 and mine has lasted for over 15 years. This tool uses vacuume to pull break fluid into a small "cup" and will prevent any air getting into the system while bleeding the breaks. You can definatly do it with one person pushing the pedal and the other opening and closing the bleed valve, but the mighty vac can turn a 2hr job into a 30 - 40 min job. I usually buy extra break fluid, and make sure that I see nothing but brand-new fluid comming through b4 I finish. It's amazing how much air you get out of a system that appears to be just fine with good presure. Good luck, and let us know how it works out for ya

Well, so far, I haven't found anyone yet locally that has the Heavy Duty 770lb & 925lb in their catelogues, but I am sure I will be able to find that out soon. The standard rated tires of the same type are $80 ea, no shipping added. Soon I hope to get paid for the last 2 major jobs I have been a part of, and should be able to budget a set in.

all good info ... ty ... I'm going to look into that guy that "bobbed" his brat making it shorter on the end ... I'm not 100% against the door elimination idea, however I don't like the idea of being totally open to the elements, I mean I could "mud proof" my interior, but it's just too nice for that right now I was hoping there might be someone who had race-preped a brat and lightened it a bit .. but I just got off the phone with the Kenda ATV tire rep and weight is NO LONGER and issue!! :banana: go check my "New 14" Holy Grail" post for details

Thanx for the continuing input! I'm going to get some tires here soon and just do some of my own experimentation. :cool: Be sure to check the up-date at the begining of this post for more details ...

Well, I plan on using it for crawling over obstacles on trails mostly at slower speeds, sort of like "trials" courses (no where near as extream as the "trials bike" motorcycle courses however) I would like to also be able to go out in the mud and snow, but most of the time will just be doing trails. Ok, all I meant by "bursting" someone's bubble, is that some people were saying to make very negitive things to the very idea of atv tires, and that's all I meant. I think swampers are great tires, but for me they just don't work. I didn't mean to give an impression that I was comparing the atv tires directly to the swampers, but I will say in my experiance, the swampers just don't work for me. I would much rather have 2 sets (one for road and one for off-road) so that I keep my stock driving characteristics on-road. The swampers simply compromised too much of both my on and off-road ability. Loss of gearing made my brat less capable off-road, and the height of the smallest swampers made my 5-spd into a 3-spd with 2 "over drives" not to mention the speedo being way off. I have learned however, that I might in-deed have to go with wider rims after all because the tire that will fit my nissan wheels may not have a high enough load rating (I want the highest I can get, and so far that looks to be for 26 X 12 - R14 and the ones I am still researching are 26 x 10 - R14, and have about 65lbs less max load rating at 375 per tire, VS 440 per tire) I will have to see what these Ozzies have done and learn from their experiances. I also conceed that with a 185/70 - R13, the gain in height is much less than 4" .. I always seem to forget to take the high difference between stock & larger tires, then cut it in half . Also, I was going off of the understanding that the stock height tires are 22.5" but now I see the height is actually closer to 23.2, so with a new tire at 26.2", I am only gaining 3" total tire height, so 1.5" of clearance. As far as an EJ swap goes, I must confess I am a bit of a Ludite when it comes to losing my carburated push-rod EA-81:-p . I don't want to have to mess with these "new fangled" computer controlled and fuel injected vehicles. I know how to maintain and adjust a carburator, and feel the less computer controll of the engine the better. Yes, I know it means more performance and eficientcy, but that is what I have my legacy sport for :cool: .

I have a few questions for those of you who have done things to lower the total weight of a gen 2 brat. I don't think I can do the door elimination thing (that would have been easy tho!) I'd like to keep the main part of the body intact, but I am not afraid of hollowing things out, wondering how feasable "air contitioning" the sides of the bed would be ... gonna be taking out the front fenders for the most part too I think and replacing them with very minimum for protection. The main weight-loss on my brat will be eliminating bed-long tool boxes and NOTcarring half my garage in supplies with me

Naw ... don't burst their bubbles ... let them lose their gearing and lose the ability to effectively pass at highway speeds :-p I already did the swamper route, doesn't work with a EA-81 .. and I'm not really interested in the EJ swap ... too much frankinstien wiring for me ... BTW if you look on the polaris Sportsman 800 that uses the same Kenda tires I am describing, you will find that it has a 6" wide rim, sits just over 26" tall (same hight as the old Cooper Discoverer's that can't be bought anymore) and the actual width of the tread is 8.5" ... It's amazing how much difference there is in a tire that is listed at a certain "width" and the actual width of the tire when mounted ... take this all with a grain of salt ... (or the whole shaker if you need it ) please give me a little more credit, I am doing my homework ... and if I am not mistaken, Sweet82's buggy also grossly exceeds the listed weight limit, and he doesn't run his at 5psi, but 25psi and last I heard neither he or Jerry's racing friend has had problems with blown beads I'm just not willing to go EJ swap or T-case to get decient gearing, I believe 26" will be more than enough at nearly 4" taller than stock, and very close to stock gearing, I am very comfortable with this combination. :cool:

*****UP-DATE!!!**** I just got off the phone with the Kenda ATV tire rep, and she said the site needs to be up-dated!! The first tire listed here: http://www.kendausa.com/atv/radial.html (K537 HD Side-By-Side Bounty Hunter Radial) has a weight rating of 925lbs!! for the rear tires sized 26x12-r14, and the front tire is rated at 770lbs!! and the size is 26x10-r14!!! So!! no more concerns about weight!! :burnout: ALSO .. I asked her if I could mount said front tires on a 14x6" nissan 2x4 truck rim and she said it should work fine!! :cool: Ok, on my quest to find a schrubery, I mainly only got alot of scratches in the woods, however, I DID find an even better 14" ATV tire! :banana: Kenda Makes a 26x10 R14 (That's right radial:brow: ) that is QUITE agressive, comes in a 6-ply and is only $80 ea at the local Polaris ATV dealer!! no shipping even, and they can be installed at a local tire dealer the same as any other (un-like the old style ATV tires of the past) ON THING YOU MUST KNOW ... THESE WILL BE OFF-ROAD ONLY!!!! do NOT use these on the road at anything approching high-way speeds .. they will fail under those conditions. I will be using a second set of rims for these tires and I will swap them out at the trail head once I start. Just wanted to pass this on to ya ... gonna have some pics of some mounted on my brat in the next few weeks! (I hope ) depends on how much $$$ it takes to get my legacy sport on the road.