FlyB0y

well, here's my thinking ... I had new wheel bearings put in approx. 3 mon ago, and I did have a BIT too much off-camber especially in the front pass side, due partially to the lift, and I forgot the strut hight being maxed out (MAJOR smack headage), and I fixed that and it made a HUGE differance, no more major off-camber ... I am also going to get a new alignment now that I have the lift and bigger tires than after the earlier alignment ... and see if that doesn't solve it, I am pretty certain that the hub is ok, I had my mechanic press in the new bearings today, and I will see If I can get it all back together with new seals (they got trashed too especially the outter one) new lower ball joint (it was boarder line last time, so playing this safe) one other thing I found, one of the caliper bolts had been cross-threaded! grrrr ... oh well, I just happened to have a old tap from a Helicoil kit that had that odd 12 x 1.25MM thread pitch, so I cleaned those up fine and I got a new grade 5 bolt, I will steal annother stock bolt from the JY next time I am in Msla (this thurs ) so I just now need to put it all back together ... let me know of anything else I should check b4 I risk this problem again

hehe ... if only it was ... 2 outta 5 tires were not beaded up! They said the beads were pretty rusty, but I had to tell them to use the water tank to double-check ... they were just testing them with a spray bottle of soapy water ... worst part was that the first one was leaking so bad I could HEAR the air escaping .. oh well, we all make mistakes, I can't talk too much I let me blown CV trash my 3 mon old bearings!

I tore my inner CV boot about 2 weeks ago, and it didn't even start to make any noise untill 2 days ago, and I just got time to try and swap it out (ty Nels) and my bearings are missing half of their balls from the races ... just wondering if it is common for a CV to do this? The CV was about 3-4 mons old, and the bearings were about 2 mons old. Just curious if this is common or if I need to look at my set-up and change anything that is soon to kill more bearings

Ty, ty! I'm sooooo glad to finally have it done ... I kept getting interrupted and having small set-backs ... and if you look closly in one of the pics you will see why I am going back to the tire shop again tomarrow I can't wait to paint the rest of the car the same color as the wheels

Ahh ... good then the 14" pugs I have are just .25 closer than the other pug wheels, and that is the stock off-set for an EA-82 ... good to know ... ty

Woo Hoo!! I'ma mov'n to Va-gini!!

hmmm interesting name "godzilla" for subaru's smallest car I used to own an '88 Justy too and W(O)W!! those things are fast for such a small car who ever gets it should lift it and put 28" tires on it like the guy who lives about 20 miles from me

W00t!! well they're done whew! Only 3 broken drill bits later, I now have the 14 x 6", 6 x 5.5 lug rims (3.75" off-set) from a '87 Nissan on my brat :cool: One nice thing I found too, if you get the PN 610-378 (Balkamp # I think) wheel lugs from Napa, they have a slightly wider spline and req alot less grinding on the inside of the break drums in the rear since the heads are smaller

Just want to make sure I am not selling something that isn't as good as other 14" Pugs being sold here ... I'd be fine with what the average going price is for 5 pug steels (about $120 I believe) just want to make sure these wheels aren't a different of an off-set. I can sell them here ... I just don't want someone to buy them here and discover they aren't the right wheels ... that is why I am being extra carefull that these are the right pugs ... what is the off-set of your pugs Glenn? I have been told that the pugs with 6 or 12 round or oval holes are the ideal off-set ... what is the actual off-set of a 6 or 12 hole wheel?

Ok, here are some pics of my 14" steel pugs I had on my '85 brat that are about to go for sale (I got 6-lug now w00t! )... I am concidering putting them on Ebay since I think they might not be the ideal off-set for use on a Subaru ... I only had rubbing issues with 28" Super Swampers TSL's (worked fine with 27" coopers), and I could have to bashed in the front Uni-body rail to keep them from rubbing just slightly on that in hard corners on the inside with the outer 3rd side lugs (I know, I am picky ... just ask Nels! (Free-range) ) And I have been told by John (Mudrat79) that they probubly wouldn't even rub at all on a EA-82 car, but I don't want to mis-represet them, and if they are sorta rare, maybe they would be worth more to a Peugeot restorer? **** P.S. **** the off-set is 4.75 (If I am measuring correctly from the inside of the rim to the bead)

hmmm so to make a 2wd , 4wd, all you need is everything south of the engine? dang .. I guess I'd be better off just finding a 4wd lol ... I'd probubly pay $200 - $300 for all that and I can probubly just find a good 4wd hatch for that price or less thx for the info

I am asking this because I want everyone's oppinions/experiances. It seems that just tapping out the axle shaft from the hub assembly is going to be hard on the bearings, just as tapping a the shaft back through when re-assembling them. If it will make that much differance in the life of a bearing, I will get the special tools to do it better ... if it will make that much differance in the life of the bearing.

Ahh ... never knew that about the fuel tanks ... and yes, it has a very nice body, can't remember if it's auto for sure ... but I think so soon as I get my new half-shaft I will have to take a trip up and look at it again

I have my eye on a '84 hatch that I might get dirt cheap from a farmer, maybe even free ... but it's 2wd ... what will it take to get the stuff from the JY to make it 4wd? just bolt on? any fab work needed?

the saga continues .... I have a new ? ... some of the holes have ended up a bit too large and I am trying a few ways to shim them up. I have put JB weld on one, and used some 1/2" copper pipe to shim the hole a bit, both seem promising, but just wanted to see other's experiances/ideas on this thx!

Here is what I have done ... goto your local parts store, and ask for the hella brand headlight OEM up-grade light. They make a light that will replace the stock one that has a much less diffused pattern ... this is NOT street legal, however, if you don't aim them too high, and use the bulbs (55w in my case) that they came with (these should be the same wattage as your stock ones ... you should double check to be sure) you shouldn't have to modify anything other than removing the old lense and putting in the new. I did run into one hang-up on the lights I bought for my brat, and that is a grounding issue, but this was fixed by just putting a couple layers of black electrical tape around the lense where it was self-grounding and turning on where it touched the bezel, this might not even be an issue with your car. Hope this helps

"Bang-Bang-Pause-Pause" Hmmmmm kinda reminds me of this sound from an old movie .... "Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang" Sounds interesting tho, I'd like to hear about the possibilities of the heavyer flywheel, too since this sounds easy to try ... would the hvy flywheel cause conciderable wear on the crank shaft/engine in general? Or is it a "safe" mildly intrusive mod ...

so any particular EJ cars I should look in the JY for?

I like your idea on the lights ... reminds me I need to get that roll bar in so I can put lights on it too and all I can say about the tank search-light is OMG!

I just checked this out at the local store in Missoula today, if this is a good brand, looks like a pretty good deal ... comes with the fair-lead 4-way rollers, mounting chanel, and snatch block and 90' useable (with 5 turns on the drum) 5/16 cable all in one package ... I didn't see the weight anywhere on it, but it felt to me to be a good 70 - 80lbs in the package just lifting it ... not bad for $300

doh! it melted the very next day ... oh well, at least the CV isn't clicking yet I have pretty good acess to snow anyway tho ... just have to drive about 1 hr to higher elevation

nice price! ... what's the track-record with these winches? Oh, and btw ... did you check your PM's from me? I was asking if you still had that 5sp D/R ... or maybe htijonson already contacted you on it ... he needs one

Hmmm I just measured the 9/16 drill and compared it to the splines on the stud ... it's just a bit smaller than that diameter ... did you mean to say "14mm"? that would make sense to me since 9/16 and 14mm are so close ... (9/16 = 14.29mm) ?

I really like the idea of solid mounted engine & tranny mounts ... do you have the specs on those? I'd like to make some

nice! so then my 2000lb winch's line should be rated for 20k break strength?