FlyB0y

***UP-DATE*** Ok, so I didn't have the hellas wired in properly after all ... going to get new headlight relays for under the dash, and then 2 relays for the hellas (one one each light thus powering them directly from the battery with the normal power wire now serving as the "on" terminal for the relays) so, that might fix the problem after all! I'll keep ya all posted

Good advice, but I think I have head-off this possibility, I have 30A in-line self-resetting breakers at each 100w light. Here's something tho ... I noticed when this initially happened, that when I un-plugged the left light that the right light went out and the left one was still going! I am now wondering if it could be as simple as the extra leads that I made to tie-in the hella lights to the stock plug-ins might themselves be grounding?

yikes!! yes to both then ... hmmm well, I guess I'm off to radio shack for a 12v buzzer ... thanks for the advice!

sweet! thx!! I now have a game plan ... I'm gonna bet that when I went diving into my dash to change the heater core that I disturbed some old wiring that is now grounding ... doh! Now, if I were to just trace back the wiring from the headlights, wouldn't this also accomplish the same thing? Or can the short be anywhere in the harness to cause this?:-\

DOH!!! yes it's my '85 brat :-p hmmm so I'm guessing that i need to hook-up the buzzer at the headlight plug? and that it will be going off untill I find the trouble spot and then it would go off once it's no-longer being grounded?

Ok, here's the deal ... I changed out my heater core, and had most of the dash appart. Then I head home for Xmas, and after more than 11 hours on the road, suddenly my brights come on and won't shut off. I cannot even turn off the low beams with the headlight switch, however, if the ignition is off, the lights stay off. So, I took part of the dash appart again, checked all the switches by isolating them, and I tried using several other hi-beam switches (thankyou Mudrat) and ignition switches with no change. I found that with virtually everything behind the instrument display un-plugged, I still have this short that keeps the headlights on as soon as you turn on the ignition. Is there anything left to try other than simply tracing the headlight wires back and looking for a short? I am hoping there is some relay or other simple thing to check. P.S. I have 100w high beams made by hella (factory replacement) and I have tried isolating the wiring to these lights as well with no change in results. Any help would be great!

Actually, I'd rather not take it all the way out now that I have seen how easily cutting it out is I'll never understand the way they buried it so deep thx for the input tho

TY!!!!!! :banana: I thought of the same thing, great to hear I'm not the only one who wanted to cut the thing out the side :-p thx a ton for that link!!

Ok, my manual SUCKS!! it's been absolutly no help and 5 hours later I have almost everything removed, but still can't find bolts to let the dash come completely out ... I can see both sides of the heater box, but can't see any way to open it up and remove the core ... any help much appreciated ... finnally warmed up to 20 - 30 DEG (it was 5 - 20 below Zero) so it hasn't been as bad as it could, but it's still cold to be doing this ... thx!

Yeah ... it is isn't it *hide* I'm gonna get a list of GM V-6 cars that have high amp alts and check the junk yard and see which ones have the correct spacing between the brackets and go from there ... Oh well, at least it works ...

ACK!!!!!!!!!!! Ok ... I screwed up ... I just went and actually TRIED to install this alt tonight ... the ears are actually about 1/4 inch too narrow I got it work but it is ugly!!! No pics, I don't wana break the camera! (I can take some if you ask nice tho :-p ) I had to not only flip the alt left to right, I had to cut the ear to the right to the point that the bolt isn't inside it, it's right on the edge of it, in other words, untill I get a big fender washer to keep it from being able to slide off, normal vibration will cause the bolt to slide off the ear ... sorry ... I was so sure when I measured it .... I'm sure there is one out there, just have to sample some more GM alts till we get one that matches the distance between the brackets. On a good note, I was able to use the stock belt, and it only took me about 4 hrs to figure out how to make it work ... if not for the off-set, it would have only required shaving off about 1/16th of the right ear. good luck .. I don't recommend this alt, but there has to be one closer ... Ok, well it turned out to not be as big a deal to keep the bolt on as I thought, but still requires considerable modification ... so I will look for annother that is spaced out a bit more ... and here are the pics ... ***WARNING!! POSTER NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR BROKEN SCREENS DUE TO THE INCREDIBLY UGLY PICTURES YOU ARE ABOUT TO OPEN!!*** Notice in pic #4 that the bolt is centered on the far edge of the ear instead of inside it. I have a large washer keeping the bolt from being able to vibrate off the ear, it might work, but I don't really trust it. Also, for those of us with A/C, you have to remove some of the back rib of the mounting bracket to make room for the bolt on the drivers side bracket.

Ok, so I had the old tech big case 100A alt for a '79 Cutlass ... and it didn't want to go on like I saw in the write-up, so I went to the parts store to see if I had the wrong one, and he found me a 94 amp alt for a '85 Cadillac Cimarron with the 2.8 V6 ... $70 with a $25 core AND it it the SAME size as the subie one for my EA81!! Just thought I would share the news :cool: Goto www.oreillyauto.com and look up a '85 Cadillac Cimarron and from the list of alternators look for the Ultima Remanufactured 94 Amp Alternator Part Number 01-0221 and yes, a purist would make a spacer on the left side to fill the gap between the mounts, but I can tell you, otherwise it is the EXACT same case size and distance between the mounts. Enjoy!

Ok, so are you using the stock ea81 tranny case or are you having to use a AWD case? And is $700 so far the total expense?

SCWEET!!! So .... help the guy with the "moding for dummies" book To do this you have to change the gears in the trany AND the diff? so then you have to get annother LSD diff in my case that is a 4.44? or are you doing some other kind of set-up?

I'm about to get a '95 Legacy with a auto tranny that has problems ... can I just swap out a 5 spd from a '91 Legacy?

wow! that sounds great! .... errr what IS it? *edit* ok I got it now ... it's a gearbox ... how would you put this on with your reg tranny? I love the sound of cuting the gear ratio in half, but I am confused as too how exactly it attaches... and at my current set-up with a weber'd ea81, I no longer have a 4th or 5th gear ... I have two over-drives! :-p so, I don't think that cutting my gear ratio in half would hurt me much ... how much is it? might it be easier than adding on a set of nissan T-cases?

***up-date*** Well, it turns out we do use ethanol in the fuel here, so I guess I will just start ordering new powervalves every 6 mon .... oh well, at least now I know what it was ...

Ok, so I got a weber 6 mon ago, ran it for a bit then decided to rebuild it to be safe, replaced the old power valve, and now fast-forward 6 mon later ... I have something plugging up the carb, won't idle, I can't find where it's comming from, then I finnally tear-down the carb and the power valve looks like it's 20 yrs old!! The rubber is all eaten up and large chunks are floating around!! I call up carbsunlimited.com and they basicly ask if I have alcohol running through it (ok, so my brat has a drinking problem ... ) and I say, I don't know if there is a high ethenol content here or not, but basicly I'm screwed, gotta buy a new one :-\ Anyone else having this problem?

Kewl, thx Zapar ... I just discovered where they're still rubbing in the back ... the strut! ... oh well, I don't think that will do too much damage, mainly I am cleaning and painting the metal I folded back ... finnaly a warm day to paint!

ACK!! I still have rubbing issues ... I guess I will have to trim back the flairs to the max too .. I should have 1 & 1/8th extra space from stock ... anyone have the amount that needs trimming for these tires? :-\

Kewl, thx Tim, I suspected around 30 would be good, but I never ran these tires b4 ... nice to have that confirmed

I was told to use 25psi on-road with my brat, (it has about 300lbs of weight in the back) I guess it's weighing in at about 2400 - 2500lbs with all my extra stuff on it, just wana see what pressure is best for mileage/wear on-road too thx!

Kewl!! I'd love too ... I think I can make Dec 31! gonna be in Oregon for Christmas but after that, I shouldn't have a problem

3" mudrat lift (Thanks again John!) And the flairs are from a nissan PU, I just pulled them from a rig in the JY and after opening up my fenders an extra 1 1/8", bending the 1" tabs I cut back to make it a strong edge, I just started at one end with the flair and anchored it with a pop-rivet (oh ... first I cut the over-sized flair in half)then I cut it a little longer than the middle and forced the flair to conform to the much rounder shape of the fender, and pop-riveted my way to the 1/2 mark, cut the flair so it was plum with a verticle line centered on the hub. Then I just matched back half by cutting it down to an estimated length and joined them at the middle backed with a piece of sheet-metal. The only problem is I ran out of rivets and used screws to finish, and I have to replace some of the screws still, but I don't think any of them are close to being dangerous to the tires, and I have trimmed alot that might be close. Thanks, I love the teeth too still waiting to get that Oct. copy of Subie Sport with a pic of the teeth in it

LOL!! So true ... amazing what the camera hides