mtsmiths

There mus' be a wholelotta VW jaws stuck to chests when they see that rig thru the dust. Well done, very well done.

If you go to the SOA website and register as the new owner of the car (you'll need your VIN), you 'should' be able to download the records from the database ... providing the dealer uploaded the work in a timely fashion. When we bought our '00 Legacy we were able to review all dealer performed maintenance.

The fog lights are pointed low for a reason. When driving in fog and blowing snow the point is to underlight the moisture so you can see thru it better. If you aim the lights up you get backscatter from the moisture and reduce your vision (which is why you turn OFF your brights in snow and fog(, and why the switch is wired to turn off the fogs when the brights are on ... they don't do the job for which they are designed with the brights on. That said. I would like to be able to control it myself also. I like the infill directly in front of the car. You can see the shocked looks on the faces of the little critters so much better.

Dump in a can of Rislone and drive it a while. If it fixes it you're home free, if not THEN fix it.

My local tire place sells replacement steelies at $29.00 ea, next day shipping included. 'Corse Subaru IS the unofficial state car in NW Montana.

... we'll see ya back here when you ask about your 'stuck' parking lights. Hee, hee, hee.

Not a record, but our 2000 Legacy has 148,000+, our '95 128,000. Sold my '87 at 212,000 still running aound town. All made it with nothing worse than a CV joint or wheel bearing.

I had a block heater on my GL10, cost about $60 installed. The car started fine without it, but it helps a lot with cold stressing on start. I'll be putting one on my 'new' '95 Legacy this winter. The Pretty One's '00 will stay in the heated garage, but my side has been taken over by my airplane so I can finish the rebuild this winter.

Battery Dance it. Disconnect the (-) battery terminal. Let it sit for an hour or more. Reconnect and start without touching anything (leave the key in the switch and the window down so you don't turn on the dome light). Let it idle for 10 mins or so. Reset your radio presets and clock.

AK-shully, it's Emilio Estavez, Martin Sheen's baby brother. The movie is a very stangely funny flick. Hmmmmm, I wonder why I like it so much?

I gotta say, having driven both that an Outback has a road feel like a Buick compared to a Legacy. The ONLY positive I see about the Outback is a couple of inches of extra ground clearance for snow (and not kissing curbs with the front valance).

Have you checked other states for someone NOT screwing with the sale price?

Why NOT to buy a repo AWD Subaru, regardless of WHAT the seller says! BTW, for a real hoot, rent and view "Repo Man" with a few friends, one of my favorite of all time flicks.

Since 1982 we have owned five Subarus and have a cumulative 275,000 (+-) miles under our wheels. Three MT, two AT, never ever had one fail yet. Just lucky, I guess.

Had to run into the house as I left this am. Sure makes starting out again easy, especially in snow (not yet). Wonder why all cars don't have it, or why more folks don't even know about it? You'd think Subaru would be the most popular car in SF.

You could just paint it white, put on a Titelist decal and drive it all over the golf course.

Nope

You don't state the ambient air temperature when the problem starts. I assume that with the snorkle you have eliminated the heat riser? The symptoms sound exactly like carb ice. With the right conditions carb ice can form at air temps in the 70s (as we all learned in flight school, right?). The moist air rushing through the venturi in the carb is supercooled, and precipitates ice in the carb throat. The ice restricts the carb throat causing an over-rich condition, which is why it will run at light throttle and bog 'til it dies if you give it any gas. I used to have exactly these symptoms in both our '87s until I replaced the heat riser hoses ... then never again. Just a thought.

I wish I had a picture of (one of) my old VW bus(es) from Manhattan Beach, CA. We welded all the doors shut, cut it off at the beltline, made a hinged tailgate and cut the front doors down, a'la Jeep. It had 10" wide mudders on the rear and went anywhere. Looked like a bathtub with a split windshield. Jaws dropped when we came flying over a dune in that thing. Had swivel cupholders mounted on the dash (from the local marina). Too bad Subaru had only the 360 in those days, with something to replace the VW forty horse she woulda really flown as light as she was.

Sure ya can ... the AT is locked into a 50/50 split in first and second, so you're good to about fifty or sixty.

You'll never even know it's there. Subaru AWD is invisible to the operator. You'll run straight, true and fast on any surface. We consistantly drive 60-65 mph on snow roads all winter in Montana We DO have to mind the Ford Exploders, we have to slow down for tham ... to avoid the wreckers pulling them out of the borrow ditches.

The manufacturers get import, tax and emission/safety standards breaks on 'light trucks'. Pity they don't actually make a pickup truck version of the Forester. For THAT I would break my hard and fast "never buy a new car" rule. I love Subarus, I NEED a light pickup, not a heavy hauler, just around the house and toy hauling.

DuhOH, and he couldn't figger out why he kept getting stuck ... eh?

http://justin.turnthecrank.com/edu_treb.jsp

(which is, after all, only an insurance policy), when you discover that after your car has gone clank, the company has gone Tango Uniform. It's endemic in the industry. Follow the previous advice, do regular maintenance and start a kitty. If you need it, you've got it. If not, you're saving for the down payment on your next Subaru!