Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

PigEqualsBakon

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    23

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by PigEqualsBakon

  1. PigEqualsBakon
    Milage doesn't mean much when a car is this old! My '83 wagon had a blown HG when I bought it, and it's only at 100k miles! It depends on how the car was treated and what it's been up to for the last nearly 40 years.
  2. PigEqualsBakon
    I would as well, my windshield has some rust around it I need to get fixed, and a new gasket will keep it fixed. We rubber on every window would be nice but we can't have everything.
  3. PigEqualsBakon
    These are for my '83 GL wagon, but hey it's a start. Thanks for the info.
  4. PigEqualsBakon
    I was wondering if anyone had any info on OEM foglights for gen 2 GLs, mine came with them from the dealer or factory but got torn off long before I bought the car. But the switch, relay, mounting brackets and wiring is all there still. I was wondering if anyone had any idea how large they where. I'm just going to buy some Hellas but I want to know how big the original ones are just to keep it original-ish looking I guess.
  5. PigEqualsBakon
    Checker, ive got a spare EA82 I pulled from a scrapper sitting in the trunk of my EA81 wagon, and ive been looking to get it out so i can start driving it lol. Im in Vancouver BC so if you really wanted we could do something with themm im pretty close. The Car i pulled it from was in there for rust anyways, and the engine has 270K KM on the clock so about 160K Miles. No need to be so sad about it! its only a car, things can be fixed. We could swap my EA82 into it in under 2 hours if we really wanted to. Sadly I'm not interested in the car for myself, as I have my own EA81 wagon to get back on the road, and nowhere to work on it. Please, let me know so I can help keep that old girl on the road! and if anyone near him is buying the car, and needs an engine, let me know too!
  6. PigEqualsBakon
    I think I have some spare steelies for a '86/93 GL that should fit fine. Theyre not doughtnut sized spares though, theyre full size. Im in Vancouver BC and shipping to Utah is a bit on the expensive side. I also have the spare for my '83 wagon, but thats also not a full size.
  7. PigEqualsBakon
    @carfreak85 So apparently I can get the car back as a "Dismantle Parts Only" status, so never driveable or insurable again, or as a salvage title, which can be rebuilt to "rebuilt" status which of course means a through inspection (not worth it tbh it has some really structurally critical rust). I'm going to email my adjuster to see if I can keep it as a DPO status, but I don't have anywhere to put it if I do go this route, and my insurance expires on the 31st and I don't want to renew it. So, if you do want it, I'll see how much it will cost me to keep it, and I'll just ask that amount from you and PM you all the details, because I have derailed this thread.
  8. PigEqualsBakon
    I've told some guys I know who have a car group down in SF. Beat of luck.
  9. PigEqualsBakon
    @carfreak85 I'll call and see what I can do. I think, I can buy it back as a salvage title, but then we can tow it to where ever it needs to go. You could always just give me the amount I spent to buy it back. I've also got a spare ea82 that was going to go in it eventually.
  10. PigEqualsBakon
    The insurance company is willing to give me 1008$ for the car outright, I don't know how much it would cost to buy it back. Theres also the problem of location. I'm in Vancouver BC and the car isn't running super great right now anyways so I don't know how far it would go.
  11. PigEqualsBakon
    My '83 wagon is nearly stock, it just has a Weber and I've kept the Hitachi and all associated parts just in case... Except for the aluminum spoiler on the rear, looks factory but I don't know, the car is optioned out (minus the turbo and automatic tranny) so it might be. No frankensubie here.
  12. PigEqualsBakon
    I'm afraid not, I sealed it all from the outside, so I never had that plastic off the car. You could always get a small metal-bristle brush in there to knock all the rust loose though. Slightly off topic but I'm going to post here anyways because this is a coupe thread. my coupe got rear ended, the back panel got caved in, the rust hole blew open completely, trunk lid un-damaged thankfully, one of the tail lights had a corner broken off. Frame might be bent a bit, body definitely is. Insurance totalled it and the repair is beyond my skills, nor do I have the space. Would you happen to need any coupe specific parts before I hand it to the insurance company? I know they're the least common of the 3rd gen L series. Mines an '86.
  13. PigEqualsBakon
    The only thing I can think of is to get some sheets of flexible foam (I used ones for a bed when camping) it's usually yellow of blue. Maybe try to find some thinner sections, cut it the desired shape and maybe try glueing it to the metal? Then for the outside you could try applying some vinyl from maybe a fabric store, with a glue or maybe sew it on before you glue the foam to the metal? I've not done this myself and this is all I can think of off the top of my head. You could always try finding one in a scrapyard and taking out some door cards, but good luck finding a coupe. Custom door cards aren't unheard of though.
  14. PigEqualsBakon
    I've had water leaks from the tail light seals and from the black plastic seals along the top of the rear trim on the outside. Siliconed the crap out of all of it, and so far so good. I did have one more leak. It's was a very small rust hole under the back bumper on the body that developed when I washed my car with a garden hose and punched right through the thin layer of rust. I've also noticed that when you open the hatch on a rainy day, water likes to run off the corners of the rear glass, and drips right onto the plastic with the vent that protrudes in the trunk. That's another way those crevices like to fill with water. And from what I've seen on other cars, that's a notoriously bad spot for water to seep through the pinch welds and separate them.
  15. PigEqualsBakon
    this is very down scaled version of the scan I took, as the original scan is 10MB and I can only upload a 2MB image. Send me an email adress or something in a PM and I can get you the highest resolution.
  16. PigEqualsBakon
    I've just recently pulled a scrapyard EA82 with a block heater that looked like it screwed right in to the underside of one of the heads, Passenger side I think? Might have been into a freeze plug but I'm not sure. I've seen some VWs that have a type that appears to be some sort of silicone or JB weld sheet that sticks itself to the oil pan, and is a heater blanket in practice. Ask a local parts store and I'm sure they'll help you out.
  17. PigEqualsBakon
    I've recently come into possession of a 1983 Paint and Upholstery pamphlet for GL/DL/Brats. It includes paint colors, and interior options on what models/trims. I can scan it and upload it here. The examples are a little small, but it should do the trick for giving you the right colours and patterns, as it's unfaded like some interiors might be.
  18. PigEqualsBakon
    Went with the helicoil. I can't post pics as they're larger than 2mb and I'm on mobile. The other mounting hole was wiped out and used a helicoil on that too. Drilled and tapped nicely but it did put up a bit of a fight. So far so good, it seems to be holding. I've already loaded the car with 5 steel rims + tires and the spare in the trunk without issue but I probably won't load the car up too much. Helicoil seems to be the way to go!
  19. PigEqualsBakon
    I've already gotten the correct helicoils, but the locking ones look promising too. I'll check if there's space for a nut when I get home.
  20. PigEqualsBakon
    I have no pictures at the moment, but while taking out the shock absorber assembly, one of the 2 17mm bolts that hold it on to the body decided that it wanted to take the threads in the body itself with it. I tried chasing the threads but no dice. What are my options here? Weld the hole in and drill it out and tap to the same size, tap to a larger size and just use a larger bolt or drill and tap it to a larger size, and use a helicoil to bring it to its original size? Has anyone else had this problem before? And will this affect my alignment? I can post pictures when I get home.
  21. PigEqualsBakon
    I found the brain box and bypassed it like you've suggested in other threads, pumps fine now with key on, and it cranks while the pump is running! Will bypassing the fuel control unit prevent it from starting? Or cause any running issues?
  22. PigEqualsBakon
    Bought the car in non running condition, but it ran a few weeks or so before I got it. I have a wiring diagram from a Haynes manual, and it appears that a fuel pump wire might be shorting to ground through the wire somewhere, as the fuse goes to ground. The fuel pump wires vanish into the body and I can't quite locate where they come out, but I do know their colours don't match the diagram. (Not the first time this has happened, only one of the two colors match)
  23. PigEqualsBakon
    Carb, EA81. The problem I'm having is strange, the ignition coil fuse, when pulled, Kills the dash (and presumably the coil) but the fuel pump runs a bit. When the fuse is put back in, dash comes back to life, all the dash lights come on then after a second goes back to normal, but the pump won't run when cranking. Putting in a different fuse does nothing, no blown fuses and no new fuses solve the issue. I know it's a wiring issue, but I have no clue where to even begin. Any Ideas? Anyone else had this problem before?
×
×
  • Create New...