Subaru_dude

I'm loving the bargain of a car I bought recently.

Not sure I agree with that. Have had 2 manual trans Subarus lose the rear main input shaft bearing. Also, they almost always leak out of the front seal which requires splitting of the case to fix. Not so with auto trans. The number one thing to look out for with the auto is neglected front diff maintenance. That's the #1 cause of auto trans failures. I'm driving my first auto trans fluid and it's really nice to not smell burning transaxle grease all the time. And any board member who has owned many 4eat Subarus will tell you they are particularly tough but you have to look out for torque bind. A quick search will tell you what you need to know about that. Personally, I would go for an '06 or '07 Outback that has had the headgaskets done.

Sorry bringing this thread back... Subarus do it because the engine sits longitudinally so the engine vibration is transmitting side to side directly through the axle shaft. If the axles don't have much grease in them, the axle will transmit the vibration through the shaft because the inner joint isn't sliding in and out of the cup with each rotation of the engine. Replace the axles with a HIGH QUALITY axle or regrease them. However, the fact it goes away when you put it in neutral tells me you may need engine or transmission mounts.

It's a 1994 awd wagon.

A FIRST GEN LEGACY AS STATED IN THE TITLE.

First of all, I love the nimble feel of the late 80s leones but with the reliable power of the ej22. This car has already grown on me. But anyway what I had questions about... Fog lights. I have a pair of PIAAs that were mounted on top of the flat, chrome bumper lf my '84 hardtop. The Legacy bumper isn't very flat but I want them mounted at least on the same level as the headlights. Who makes light bars and is that my only option? Also, it has the 4eat trans and one day would love to have a toggle switch for the awd and to lock the center diff. Last I read that works great but has anybody tried that and had any problems? Eventually this car will be my road warrior with outback struts, meatier tires and extra lights. I have greatly missed the mud... Thanks for any feedback.

If you find a '96 with a 5spd, it will have the ej22.

Oops, I mean over 10 years. Was counting from my post in 2006.

8 1/2 years. Impressive.

I've got everything for the ej swap so I'm going that route. The extra power would make that little car just plain silly with only fwd. But that will be a while, I'm pretty dead set on buying a new(er) Subaru. My daily commute is anywhere from 100 to 200 miles a day and need more room for equipment also. The ole Camry is getting tired these days.

I'm sticking with fwd just because I already have the trans and I'm not wanting to do all the work to swap the car over to AWD. Speedo doesn't work and hasn't since I got the car so I'm not too concerned about that either. And i'm pretty sure it's a 23 spline trans sp I can use the axles that are already in the car, correct? Thank you for the feedback!

So this may be a new gen topic as I plan to drop a 2wd Impreza trans with an EJ22 into my '84 coupe but I figure there might be more hands on people here. What I plan to do is make my car a super fun and satisfying driving machine that shifts smooth as butter. EJ22 for availability reasons and I already have a fwd 5spd out of an Impreza so no adapter plate will be involved. Would like to stay away from AWD for weight reasons. So here's my question. Has anybody built a fwd trans and if not, aren't they pretty much the same as the awd trannys just without the awd stuff on the rear? What could I do to make it row through the gears smooth as butter? Aftermarket syncros and short throw shift kit good enough or do I even need fancy syncros? And how about limited slip front diffs? Thanks for any insight.

It's an ea81 intake. It started acting up after a friend drove it. He overrevved it and it drove fine the rest of that evening and then developed the problem. I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to ej, it's been sitting for a year now and I'd really love to be driving it. Really love the 2 doors.

Same as all the others, sucking in air profusely and using coolant too. I also tried using cork gaskets with the permashield as well and the story was the same. I'm beginning to think I just need a new intake and heads.

I haven't had time to get over to my friends house where its at and probably won't until after the holidays. Edit: I used the paper gasket material with shellac right after I tried the gasket material with the copper spray and it didn't seem like it even tried to seal.

I used the Permashield for the intake and that stuff does seem perfect. It's the consistency of putty when it dries, but haven't put any real miles on it since. Been started and ran until warm a few times and when I touch the little bit that got mashed out when I torqued down the intake, it is still very firm despite being hot. Seems promising.

As far as i can tell, they are perfectly flat. I can put the adapter plate on the intake and it doesn't rock, and put the carb on the adapter plate and it doesn't rock either.

Can I use straight sealant for the adapter plate? I've cut gaskets out of paper gasket material and sprayed them with copper spray but that didn't hold, and used some really thick rubber material and that was a little better but still sucking air pretty bad. Could I use straight sealant to seal it? There must be unbelievable amounts of vacuum in the carb because it ends up sucking a leak everytime I put a gasket in there.

Do you or have you ever been to Williamsburg KY? I swear I've seen that silver Ferrari there before... at least one very similar. I find it doubtful that two of those cars would be in the same part of the COUNTRY.

I ran into the same problem installing a 4spd 2wd, it was like the input shaft didn't want to slide into the pilot bearing. I got a nut started on the bottom driver side and a bolt and nut started on the passenger top and just forced it in. Didn't damage anything amazingly.

I'm gonna bet it's an input shaft seal. They're super cheap on Amazon. You'll have to split the transmission case but that's not as bad as it sounds. I've never had one that didn't leak after taking it apart though, but I'm a sucky mechanic.

Is it just me or does your wagon only have 2 lugs on each wheel??

Yeah I was about to say the same thing. I had a '96 Outback that had just shy of 9" of clearance which is about the same as the new Foresters but I never noticed any problems in crosswinds, however it is a much sleeker and lower car. The Forester has the most clearance in it's class and it's certainly one of the boxiest small suvs out there. Edit: And if it REALLY bothered you, swap some Impreza struts onto it if you don't mind it riding really low. I bet that would make it super stable in crosswinds. Also, I would like to know how the Forester XT handles in crosswinds compared to the regular Forester. Maybe it's a matter of suspension tuning. I hear the Foresters are quite a soft ride.

Aren't the Fel-pros cardboard?

Rubber gasket material with copper spray didn't work worth a damn. So if you are reading this thread wondering what route you should take, just use the real gaskets. Unless you only need your engine to run properly for about 20 seconds, in that case go for it!!!