calebz

Got a voltmeter? test the lines with the key off and the key on.. chances are (because of the age of your vehicle) that there arent any hot wires for the radio with the key off.. you will probably need to make one for your new deck. If you don't have a voltmeter, then make a testlight .. use a turn signal bulb( or any auto bulb you may have laying around.) and solder or tape wires on to it.. works great

Keep in mind that you can make a "better" air intake, but it won't be a "cold" air intake if it is drawing air from under the hood.. needs to get cold air from somewhere outside the engine compartment.. still, even drawing air from under the hood is preferrable to the crappy stock restrictive airboxes

Donut spares are 15s..the link you psted doesn't have a working pic.. so its kinda hard to tell what they're selling

Moose.. you still have to turn the boost up.. what you did only stops the fuel cutoff from triggering at 9psi

And if you decide not to keep it, let me know.. I always wanted a turbo Loyale.

There are a few purists(many very near you) that would probably chop you up if they saw you chopping up a 79 brat for something like that:D

Hey tex.. whats the diaphragm thingy in the front of the intercooler and where does it go?

My wife thought I was nuts when I did mine too.. took me 2 days of disassembly on the old car(was wrecked had to cut part of th nose off with my circular saw) . Took 6 days to assemble/convert. I redid the interior while I was at it. Less than 2 weeks later I drove it from Puyallup(Seattle/Tacoma) to Dallas, TX.. Now thats Faith in ones workmanship and parts.

Ask Chris.. Its his brat.. Yoohoo.. Chris, you out here somewhere?

I'm not sure about testing values.. the FSM has very little info about it.. doesn't even show a blowup of the disty.. just swap pigtails and pop the new disty in there.. you will know soon enough if it helps your problem.

If the one in the car is also the optical type, you can swap them easily, turbo dist or not. flip the dist over and look at where the wiring goes into the housing.. there are 2 screws there.. unscrew them and the whole wiring pigtail can unplug.. then slap the right pigtail in there and you're good to go.. just had to do this a couple of weeks ago for very similar problems to what you are experiencing... including the long wait for restart. took ten minutes to do the swap and all problems went away

The turbo plenum does get in the way, but even if I had a carb or SPFI, they still wouldn't clear the Carb/Throttle Body. Erik, You're right, I am runniing the Oval slotted pugs.. with one with the round holes as a spare.. Couldn't find another oval slot locally and the one I have was CHEAP

As I stated in your other thread, my 14s don't fit under the hood.. And My tires aren't very big

Umm.. 84 is a completely different body style(unless you're in OzLand).. must have been interesting getting it to fit:rolleyes:

I have played with home made lifts on jeeps.. never on a soob. I have however, installed one BYB lift on an EA82T wagon.. took about 12 hours(one day) for two of us to do it.. I'll bet that next time it will take a lot less. the time save refitting parts and finding bolts and stuff is definitely worth the $300-$400 that a BYB lift costs.

This is not a determining factor..for example..87 was a crank angle sensor dist that used clips.. 88 was the same dist and it used screws

FedEx is a lot better than UPS.. UPS has broken every breakable thing I have ever sent or recieved through them.. I'll stuck with FedEx

Or you could do it the easy way and cut the two wires for the starter interrupt(neutral safety) switch and hook them together. Thats how I did mine and it works great.. besides.. butt connectors are cheap!. Note.. before you cut anything, wiggle your shifter while trying to start the car.. maybe try putting it in neutral before starting.

There's no sense tearing the whole rear end assembly apart.. I can come out with axles, brakes.. everything attached.. only trouble you might run into is not having the boltholes in the back of your car for the diffhanger and stuff.. but there will be marks to show where it goes.. Another small issue to deal with will be the mounts for the carrier bearing. you will have to weld those on or drop bolts through the floor or something. The only other hard thing will be the pedal assembly.. and thats just a PITA. I recently swapped an auto for a pushbutton 4wd 5spd.. wasn't too hard at all.. was expecting a lot more work/hassle than it really was

how about the sending unit? is it possible it is bad?

Steve.. umm... its a turbo GL-10 like ours are.. Maybe you could take some pics of exactly what is disconnected.. someone here ought to recognize it. Good score BTW.. my first turbowagon also came my way for 'wiring problems'.. it had to do with improper connection of those 2 big important looking connectors on the drivers side between the battery and the strut tower.

Yeah.. it was my 185/75/14s that wouldn't fit under the hood.. thus the spare on the roof!

I think the fenders are the same. even if not exactly the same, they will still bolt on just like they are supposed to be there.. the hoods are just a tiny bit different

All we have down here are big flat fields..everything is flat for miles around. but the scca events lists for the area seems to be comprised mostly of road rallies.. go figure:mad:

OTOH, I like the EA82 style better.. My turbo is not too hard to get parts for. I think it looks better.. the engine has been reliable(it came from my first soob, and I'm now on my fourth).. definitely more room inside. Heads aren't a problem unless you over heat the car badly/often.. Plus, changing timing belts isn't that hard. See.. its all a matter of preference