calebz

Loose belt would also do that

i have had the exact same problem in my 87 Gl-10 TurboWagon. I decided its just a digidash thing.. I ran 2-3 extra grounds off the negative battery terminal and the problem has almost completely gone away.. now it just goes up one bar when the heat is cranked up. I know steve was having the same problem when he cranked the fan up to 3-4 with the AC on. He also has an 87 GL-10 TurboWagon

Looks good.. I dig the push bar and the paint scheme!

On my wagon they are 4 inch in the front and .. jeez.. now I can't remember what the back doors held.. I think they were 6 inch

connect the green connectors on the drivers side top firewall and try again.. that will give you currently active codes

Now that we know its a carbed car, the symptoms sound to me more like a malfunctioning choke

I'm with xenon on this one.. either the headlight switch, or more possibly, the dimmer switch is the likely culprit oh yeah.. pop in to chat some night.. I'm still looking for some stuff for you

Aren't you listening Mike? Maintenance doesn't matter. What the subaru dealership says doesn't matter unless they put it in writing. Even then it doesn't matter much unless they currently have an 87 GL wagon for sale to back up what they say. Nothing matters excepts current printed copies of book values as described above and hard copies of local soobs for sale. All of this will be temporized by what the adjuster has to say. And it is his job to save the insurance company money. Get your paperwork together. Do your homework. Or you will be in for a nasty surprise and all the friends and friendly dealerships in the world won't be able to help you. After a quick look, Kelley Blue Book places your car at around $2000.. thats nice and all, but insurance companies tend to try to avoid using Kelley's figures. And here's why: Edmunds lists your car, at dealer retail price around $800. Thats probably the price the insurance company will give you unless you can prove its worth more.

Meeky, they have different cars than you. Different engine, different rules

marketplace.....................

I have seen/heard/felt inner axle joints(DOJ) produce the above mentioned problems.. something to consider

It says 'Subaru H6'

What car? I have 2 seperate lights .. one for the parking brake, one for the actual lights.. is it possible you just have a light bulb out?

Just get one from a yard. They don't go out often.. Just make sure you get the rone with the right body length. there are at least 2 different starter body lengths(found out the hard way doing my mauto to manual conversion).. you don't say if your car is 4wd or not .. if not, it shouldn't matter which one you use, if so, get the short one

Yeah.. what shawn said...please set aside the 55 plymouth for me.. I love those things

This one I can vouch for .. Driven through wyoming in the winter.. snow and slush and sh!t all over the hiway.. people still doing 80mph.. definitely 4wd conditions.. but if you drive to slow, the local idiots will run you off the road

Of course a big block V-8 will be better in 1/4 mile times than one of these wimpy little soob motors.. A built 5-600HP 396 will stomp the sh!it out of a soob in a stright line any day of the week... But put me on a mountain trail and Bo and Luke Duke wouldn't keep up with me and my 115HP turbo monster Even at high boost, these things, both by design and by general use, are not straight line track cars. They are for rally, snow and 4wheeling.. all the paces you would never take your charger or nova or whatever. I just noticed you mentioned a dart above.. having had a Big Block(and small block and various other) Dart in the past.. Just keep this in mind.. Its a completely different world.. even at higher boost levels, intercooled and better exhaust, you are still only looking at 140-160 hp.. something that is important though is that the soob doesn't weigh as much as an old american muscle car.. thet Nova with the 396?.. its motor and tranny weigh more than half of what your whole brat weighs

Actually, if the turbo is a 3sp auto, they will fit.. All NA = 23 spline Turbo 3AT = 23 spline Turbo 4EAT = 25 spline Turbo Manual = 25 spline

Yeah.. Rob told me when it started last night.. you guys suck:mad: Just kiddin.. have fun:D

Take a look at the cap on your PS unit. It says to use ATF No.. not replaced.. thats what's supposed to be there

From all that I have seen, XT6 FT4WD is 3.9. XT4 FT4WD is 3.7

I had a simialr issue with my wagon.. turned out to be the ignition module in the dizzy.. would stall at random times after reaching normal op temperature.. would have to sit for a while to restart.. changed coil , plugs, wires, o2 sensor.. no good.. swapped dizzy and the problem is banished forever.. or until next time.. whichever comes first

Possible contamination in the lines?.. maybe someone put some plain old power steering fluid in there at some point?

Thats interesting that you brought up the question about the ring gear. I was just having that conversation with someone else today.. yes, it can be done.

The maintenance you have done is absolutely useless in figuring relative worth or market value in the eyes of an insurance company.. get printed retail quotes from http://www.kbb.com , http://www.edmunds.com and the nada manual.. if you don't know anyone with a current nada manual, go to the public library, they carry them, and its only 10 cents a copy. What you think the car is worth doesn't mean a damn thing to the insurance company. The only thing that matters is what those three sources say. I have been through this more times that you can imagine