calebz

First, which AC unit do you have .. is it 'inboard' or 'outboard'? And paerl, yes you do have to remove the timing covers and the crank pulley.. it looks like a pain, but its not that hard.. 22mm bolt.

Yes, they work.. thats what I have on my car, with stock lugs

Sure Chris! You just say when

Sounds like throwout bearing noise to me.,...

Welcome to The old school soob board

I just did mine in pierce county in june(tacoma and puyallup).. had to do it 4 times.. they only chrged me the first and third times.....

The dizzy from the 87 will work.. you will proabably have to swap the wiring pigtails though.. its really easy.. there a slittle screw on the underside of the dizzy, unscrew it and the pigtail unplugs, then plug the new one in

Matt.. you were told to deal with air cleaner and plugs and all the basic tune up stuff before you went in to get it tested. you didn't even bother to do that? you were just asking to fail....

What John said.. I had the same problem in my 87 wagon... same symptoms.. was the ignition module

WRX(non-STi), 99(I think that was the first year for the US model)-03

Good point. also, try the legacy central board that will probably be your best bet for an EJ22T

No EJ22TT in the US EJ22T is hard to find.. only came in 90-94 legacy turbo and there aren't very many of those.. especially in a 5 speed. Plus you would probably get lynched if you destroyed a good one(especially a 5 speed) EJ20T is a better bet, but be prepared to pay for it..the WRX has only been in the US a few years

I would use a 180 because its possible that with a 160 you may never reach full operating temp. Thus reducing performance, increasing emissions.. Experiment though.. I could be wrong.. Living here in texas, I would use a 160, but I lived in the tacoma/seattle are for the first 27 years of my life(I'm 28 now) and based on my experiences with temps there, I would start with a 180.. remember, stock is 195, so 180 is a substantial change, especially for somewhere that doesn't get terribly warm. However, every car is different.. the absolute worst thing that could happen using a 160 is that you decide you don't like it.. its cheap and easy to change later. Once again, I would be interested in seeing some pics after you mount and plumb the IC..900 ICs are abundant and inexpensive.

Sounds good to me. I would use a 180 t-stat though.. I would also like some pics of how you mount and plumb the saab IC.. I am assuming you are using a 900 IC as the 9000 ICs are a little harder to come by

EA81T would be substantially harder Than an EA81 for a number of reasons.. 1) Turbo crossmemeber required 2) Wiring harnes required (Just like if you used an EA82T, there is a computer) 3).. Most importantly, good luck finding an EA81T motor.. pretty hard to come by, and if you scavanged a good EA81T car for a motor and crossmember, there are a number of people on the board that would probably lynch you.. If you go with a turbo motor, you will have to deal with fuel injection and computer wiring and such.. do yourself a favor and just go with the EA82T.. and do that only if you are in for a lot of work.. a little fabbing and lots of wiring. Otherwise, take the easy way out like me.. get a TurboWagon and restore your 78 Brat

You could have gotten substantially more....their first offer is always way low....

It needs to be under 1100 for washington.. if EA81T is anything like EA82T, there is probably a screw in the back of the TB that adjusts the idle

Not true at all NorthGuy.. the "B" word and "C" word are extremely valuable tools. On occasion, they have been known to be more useful for soob repair than a whole metric tool set. They are an excellent persuader for getting those tight fitting parts on, and it has been scientifically proven that they have top notch lubrication properties ideally suited for freeing up rusty parts.

That could happen just as easily starting form inside the car.....

its there to tell you your doors aren't locked.. try locking the drivers door after the car is started.. if your locks are all functioning correctly, they will all lock and the light will go out

Thats not the case in washington. Its $15 to take the test. If you fail, they give you a little sheet that tells you some of the things that cause some of the failures.. Your next test is free.. but remember to bring your failed test paper in with you or you will have to pay again. if you fail again, your third test is $15.. fourth is free.. so on and so forth.. Its an old car.. they usually won't nail you for a small exhaust leak unless its really obvious. Unless there is some obvious noticeable problem, smoke or smell, do the normal maintenance(oil, filter, air filter, plugs wires) take it out on the freeway.. make sure the car is nice and warm and you have run it hard enough to warm the cats up and blow out ant crap settled in the exhaust.. then take it through and see what happens.. no sense trying to fix it if you don't know if its broken

Andy, New doesn't necessarily mean good.. you wouldn't be the first guy to get bum 'new' parts

Look under the dash on the drivers side, right above where your knees are when sitting in the drivers seat, right under the steering column.. if you have an ECU, it will be there.. If its there, follow the code retrieval methods in the link above

Dunno.. do you have an ECU? some do some do not..I think. if you have an ECU, follow the listed procedure to check/decipher codes

http://www.westol.com/neper/ecucodes.html