calebz

Looks Good! tire are a little small though (just kiddin)

Thanks for the info Chris. There used to be a guy on the board that would build bypass for the fuel cutoff for about $25.. I haven't seen him on the board, but I may still have his email addy.. His name was dinosmash2000.. anyone else remember him?

Thats interesting.. I have had some questions about hotwire versus vane.. my 87 is a hotwire, but I see one post above that says their 87 is a vane type, and skips 87 is also vane type.. but my 87 is hotwire.. weird

Good choice! :clap: Applause for doing the Right thing. And don't feel bad, although truth be told, doing the right thing usually does suck

You got a legacy turbo for $100? YOU SUCK!!! No really, good score and good luck with it

First: Try a different dealer. Granted, it is their job to squeeze you for as much as they can, but that seems a little excessive. Second: for half the price that they charge to pull your codes, you could get an OBDII code reader on ebay, and use it on nearly any 95 or newer car.. (94 if its a toyota) And last: As was stated above, Autozone will pull your codes for free, and though I believe that it is against some law/rule or something for them to clear your codes, they will usually do it anyway from what I have heard. You sound as though you are pretty handy.. you changed your own timing belts.. screw the dealer. If you have enough skill to change those belts, the dealer is only there as a last resort.

Just wondering if anyone would be interested in such a thing. In the general area, I know of.. Myself ElectrycMonk Subaru3 Anyone else..? that would be an awful small get together. Fun nonetheless, as I haven't met Todd(subaru3) yet

Tex, your rx is an 87 right? Hotwire MAF? did you have any problems with the fuel system cutting out at 9 psi? If so, what did you do about it?

The dealer charged you an hour because, in my experience anything that involves turning a wrench incurs a minimum 1 hour labor charge.

Running that much time in the red, you can probably count on damage to the heads.. they do not like to be overheated.. "all the water came out the bottom" sond like the radiator went crap.. soob radiators are not exactly the world champions of cooling anyway.. only sure way of checking for permanent damage is to pull the heads off and look them over, maybe have them magnafluxed

Yeah.. still need.. will PM you with address and stuff weird that you didn't get the email.. I clicked on the little email Icon at the bottom of your post.. Thanks

Yeah.. it caught me off guard.. At least I haven't let the smoke out of the digidash yet:D

http://www.ozified.com PK Davis is the man in the states for these fine pieces of lifting ingenuity

I agree that the pic was pretty vague.. . However, You can get little air compressors off of mid 80s lincolns.. the continetals had a load leveling system with air shocks and a compressor. you can also get them off of 70s and 80s ford trucks.. not sure which ones specifically but I do remember pulling a while bunch of them off when I worked at a wrecking yard(11-12 years ago) and last but not least, some soobs came with compressors and tanks built in to the drivers side fender to control the air suspension.. I no longer have the suspension, but I have some pretty nifty ideas for the tank and compressor

Here Soob Codes There is also a how-to in the ultimate subaru repair manual, for which there is a link at the top left of each page

I am of the opinion that it is electrical Bring a battery, an alt.. hell, bring a starter if you have a spare.. plus, some spare battery cables.. It could be something as simple as a loose battery terminal

Well.. after trying a few quick side of the road fixes, I had the TurboWagon towed home.. got out the FSM and the multimeter. Anyone cared for some Texas Fried ECU? Voltage in.. no voltage out . Decided to open the ECU and have a looksee.. Definite heat induced carnage on and around one of the resistors. And oooh that smell, gotta love the smell of burnt electronics. I may get out the soldering iron and attempt a repair, but the board around the resistor doesn't look too healthy. Bottom line is that I need a new ECU. Please see my post in the Market Place WTB 87 GL-10 Turbo ECU

which one.. upper or lower? lower.. use a hacksaw, and pay the fine for tampering with the cats:rolleyes:

Sorry if I gave false info.. My 88 FSM (sitting here in front of me), shows timing set to 20 degrees BTDC@ 700 rpms... If 86 is different, well.. I guess one learns something new every day

The limited GT is a very nice ride. I'm sure you will enjoy it:D

Tony, that guard is very cool..you could probably make a pretty penny from us suckers that don't have the time/equipment to make our own. I know I would shell out the dough for that. I have a friend in medford.. next time I am up there, I will look you up.. would really like to have a closer look at that Great Job

EDIT: Never mind my advice.. I just re-read your post and saw that you already replaced the resistor pack. BTW.. Its nice to hear of another old school soob in texas.

AC can be charged with 134a, but some of the fittings and such have to be changed.. shops usually (in my experience) charge 200-350 for this service. If your AC is completely empty and dry, you can do it yourself for about $35 with a kit from autozone

should do that on an EA82 as well

Not completely sure yet, will find out tomorrow.. But I do believe my ECU took a sh!t.. this is on my 87 GL-10 TurboWagon. When I replace it, will I be able to replace it with one from an 88-89 turbo? should it be GL-10 only? or is this going to end up like the intake manifold.?. wiring only fit an 87 TWagon