calebz

I got the fuel pump effectively hotwired.. but still no fire.. Like I said before, I am not getting the usual flashes from the ECU, so either the wiring to/from the ECU is toast, or the ECU itself is.. Anyone have a spare 87 turbu ECU? Gonna get it towed home:boohoo: and start tracing and testing stuff

Dammit I swapped out the pump and both the fuel pump relay and the ignition relay.. no dice.. fuel pump doesn't cycle up whe the green connectors are connected.. nothing.. WTF? car is still sitting in the parking lot of the mexican place. Now, just to make sure, the fuel pump relay is one of the two directly above the plugs for the ECU, correct.? My FSM says they are inboard of the steering column, but there are no relays (or anything else) in the area it pointed to. Also, it used to be that when I plugged in the green connectors and turned on the power, I would get 3 quick flashes on the ECU. Now I get nothing. I still have power to the coil, stereo, dash.. everything seems normal.. except the fact that the pump isn't working. I checked the old pump.. its good..It powers up when hooked straight up to the battery. This is really pissing me off. Please help

was driving along.. 50 MPH, the car died.. I coasted into a prking lot.. looked around. Thought .. hmm timing belt.. check .. nope dizzy still turns. Pulled the fuel line from the filter under under the hood.. hmm.. curious.. no fuel .. I suppose its possible that the filter is clogged, but doubt that is the culprit, given the sudden nature of the problem.. more likely it is the fuel pump..I would have pulled the filter right then to replace it with the spare in the back of the car, but I couldn't get the damn thing disconnected from the line that feeds it. so, I called my wife and waited for her to come pick me up.. Luckily I coasted into the parking lot of a decent mexican restraunt. Went in out of the 100 degree heat and had a couple of Ice Cold Coronas while I waited. Off I go to gather parts for the great parking lot repair.. I'll be damned if I'm gonna have my soobie towed home. If I remember right, there is also a fuel pump relay.. anyone know where it is on an 87 turbowagon?

Only heard of them.. probably because I tend to not notice things like that.. sprints.. dodge daytona 2.2s ..chrysler K-cars...ford fajitas.. little fall apart POSs

Ummm.. Vick.. thats two questions

Turbo FireFly?

Personally, I think $400 is a little much for something that needs that much work.. I have seen better cars go to the wrecking yard. Bad tranny.. some of the interior need to be replace.. a little smoke.... sounds like a borderline parts car $200

It looked like it was a test run.. I expect that we will probably see a more polished version in the future. that camry was probably wrecking yard bait before they trashed it

Its an especially nice looks if your car is white.. which mine is.. chrome would look kinda dumb on a white car

Must be because its 2wd.. my 2 GL-10s with the chrome stuff were both 2wd.. my GL-10 with the black stuff is 4wd

I already have the guage.. just no adapter..

Just as a point of interest.. Not all GL-10s had black hardware.. My first one 88 GL-10 Turbo had all chrome hardware.. my second one 87 SPFI GL-10 had chrome hardware.. I think.. turbone could tell you .. he has it now.. My 87 4wd GL-10 Turbo has black hardwasre.. I like it much better

So.. andy.. you gonna volunteer your rx for the RC Soob project?

Flex plate is definitely worth looking at.. I have cracked/broken a few.. although never on a soob.. It does sound surprisingly like a rod knock

Thanks for looking. I will keep an eye out here for further developments

Sounds like you had a blast! Glad everything went so well

Actually, you won't have to swap axles.. Autos used the same spline count regardless of whether it was turbo or not.. It happens to be the same spline count as Non turbo manuals. found that out the hard way.. However, you will have to swap the rear diff.. Gearing on the auto(and turbo manual) is 3.7. gearing on the nonturbo manual is 3.9.. so you will have to get a 3.9 rear diff.. should be easy to come by, and you will have more low end oomph.. little less top end though 70mph in 4wd in a straight line shouldn't have roasted the tranny..unless there were mismatched tires or something else that would cause straight-line binding.. probably had other problems already, they just may not have manifested themselves yet.

you might be better off with the stock 13 inch wheels and some lopro tires.. it would lower your center of gravity a bit.. also, might try xt6 swaybars 19mm, i think. (?)

keep an eye out on Ebay.. I see RHD U.S. Postal issue legacies there every once in a while

Does the noise increase when turning left or right(under acceleration)? Could be DOJ(inner axle joint)

I have found that removing the y pipe is the easiest way to get the o2 sensor off of those cars(thankfully the one on a turbo car is much easier to get at) unbolt the y pipe from the heads and from the midpipe and your good to go

The ej20T conversion has been done.. search through the past pages for " The Ultimate RX "

I think they have a single adjustor for the rear suspension tosion bar thing.. it would be located under the back seat.. fronts would adjust like the ea82s This is just a guess.. have seen these things on a hatch.. imagine it would be the same on a wagon.. someone will correct me if i am wrong

Auto, non-turbo... rough condition.. only thing worth anything is the spider intake.. $20

Actually, its not so easy.. or I wouldn't have chimed in on the post.. none of the local parts stores carry metric adapters(napa, autozone and o'reilleys).. I have to order it from somewhere.. thats why a real answer would be preferred.