calebz

Definitely bring papers.. or at least fresh screens :cool:

Yes. 505 is the only one

The reason they don't go to 25, is because the timing is supposed to be set at 20 btdc

timing could be off. could be bad gas.. any other symptoms? how long has it been doing it? did you change anything before the problem started?

I have the same question for the temp guage on an EA82.. sorry to hijack your post, but I will bet they are the same size

My mother in law has made similar complaints about her OBW.. was bought used with a new clutch in it(OEM).. after 3k miles.. clutch stutter..

Nope, we didn't get it here. unfortuntely

thats where I got mine.. 6000 miles and still going strong.. no troubles at all, except that it took 5 axles to find 2 that weren't visibly damaged or weren't obviously constructed by a myopic retard with an obvious dislike for soob axles

Brad .. I saw that one on Ebay.. I am absolutely AMAZED it didn't get any bids.. (sarcasm)

Hey now... Some of us have over 100 hp.. barely

yup, the 88 is the wrecked one. mail comin your way, Thanks

Running stoichiometric raises combustion temps in comparison to running rich. thus giving you a much greater chance of melting your turbo and manifold. at the stoic ratio, one false move and you are in detonation mode. Skip, If you can't figure it out, it must be one hell of a problem.

Yeah Rob, they're the same. I would recommend the one from the 88 turbo.. I drove it longer and trust it more. There is paperwork coming your way And is there any way I could talk you out of the fuel pump off the 88 turbo?.. I think its still there.

I don't know of anywhere that sells just the joints.. in my experience, its best to replace the whole axle. $60 plus a core isn't bad, just make sure you inspect them closely before you take them home.. and get a good warranty.. I believe mine came with a lifetime warranty

As I said in my first post, my advice only applies if the car in question was an EA82 (had to guess since you didn't say) Since your car is an EA81, all my advice is null and void. I don't know anything about those

Nope, Oob, thats not it.. By not giving the answer directly, I was encouraging a little bit of research with the resources given. All the answers are in that link

My 87 turbowagon does that too(used to have the ride height suspension.. been converted). still haven't figured out how to get rid of it. that flashy light is irritating.

check the link you were given in the last post.. all the codes are there

I can resize pics for ya too. send em to me and I'll send an 80x80 back to you czaharris@comcast.net

The second one looks better.. thats the one thats photoshopped isn't it?

Uneven wear/mismatched tires? that might cause binding as well

Is it a dealer or private party? That makes a big difference on price. 5700 doesn't sound too bad, but I would check cars.com, autotrader.com and kelley blue book(kbb.com)

:burnout: Yeah, johns right about the thepedal box. I recently did the swap from auto 4wd to manual 4wd(S/R) I'll help with whatever info I can give

I have gotten 2 soobs very cheaply due to "wiring problems".. IE: parking lights that won't turn off.. the first was one was my first soob, so I didn't know any better.. after fiddling around with it for a couple of hours, I sat down, took a break and looked through the owners manual for amusment.. thats when I found the switch.. have never used it since

Ahhh thought that might be the case.. Never heard of that on our older soobs. you might try posting on the new generation forum.. thats where the legacy and impreza owners hang out. Sorry I can't be more helpful