calebz

The ER27 is not the larger offsrping to the EA81. It is however similar to the EA82, which, as far as I know has no forged parts. Can't speak about the EA81, since I have only owned one and never worked on it.

According to my scales, its actually almost exactly 1/2 Thats why the turbo pulley is in a box and the NA pulley is in the car

Seattle to Dallas in an 87 Turbo wagon. Wasn't quite perfect, but it got here with me, 2 big dogs and a cat in it

I think i have one from a turbo car sitting in the garage somewhere. No roll pin . It didn't come with one. I have a lighter pulley from an NA car on there now with roll pin and such) Anyway, the turbo pulley is yours if you want it.

Seems there are a few that have gone .020 successfully. Beyond there and I would imagine you would have the manifold alignment problems listed above.

85-86

Correct. And even with a lightened body, a hybrid is still a long term investment if you expect to see any noticeable returns.

Theres a guy here that did a forester with an EA82DR. Don't remember his name, but have seen him in new gen. Might try searching there. Should be the same process for the outback

Nope. No need

Not all EA82s are 3.90 .. Only the 3.90 ones Check your diff. it came with a tag on it. 90% of the time I find them to still be in tact and legible

Wow.. I'm a search Nazi and.. well.. That was just weak. To the OP.. Try the ausubaru board for a larger group of locals in your area with lifted soobs. There are a few here too. Welcome:)

Mine isn't that recent. But it was fun wile the motor lasted.

Key word - Marketplace

Holy crap there man. 2 threads in the for sale forum weren't enough? Closed

Using 2wd XT struts and springs would bring it down, retain a close to stock spring rate and would not need those scary little clamps. Another option is adjustable coilover type things. They aren't really made for our cars, but I adapted a set for a WRX to my wagon. Something like this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/82Picture_060.jpg

Cost about the same? $500 or less is what I usually pay for a donor car for a project like this. If you can hook me up with a turbo EJ setup for $500 or less that has all I need, I'll be there next week with the cash. (Would come now, but I'm in San Antonio on vacation)

Yes, the green ones display active codes. But I at least get the introduction/production code, even if there are no errors. No O2 light at tall seems a bit odd.

Good question. More accurately though, is this the same mechanic that did your transmission and the myriad other repairs you have had in the past couple years? If so, run. If not, I would probably be inclined to ask him what led him to believe the PP was bad. Was the disc replaced also?. TO bearing?

Normally I would ask the same questions, but if Fox says the headgasket is blown, you can safely assume it is. He has probably blown more of these things up than many members combined

Knowing which fuel/timing system you are using would be helpful. In general, I would say bust out a test light and get to work on the wiring harness. I am going to bet that when you find the cause of the O2 light not coming on, you will find the reason the fuel pump isn't coming on. Do you have a spare ECU to test?

His first trick is that that buggy weighs a lot less than a car;)

That is either the EGR or Purge control solenoid. Can't remember which is which. I have neither on my wagon anymore. Someone recently found a solenoid from a honda that is sturdier and within spec.

Not in the rear

We didn't have any auto RXs here except for the latter half of the 89 model year. Not sure if that info would be applicable to you.

I used carb'd Lasted about 6k miles before a suspect ring proved it was crapping out. 10psi, 7300 rpm, 3rd gear. Boost into crank case. Rear main apprears to have popped out like a cork. Oil everywhere. I have a good Spidered NA motor in the garage. Am thinking of selling the wagon and getting something that will make some real power. Haven't really decided yet.