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calebz

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Everything posted by calebz

  1. Thats what mine are. 450 front - 350 rear. Ride isn't cadillacish, but with some decent (read: not old rump roast worn out 20 year old stockers) struts, its not too bad
  2. Try calling or emailing radiators.com . I would bet they would give you a direct shipping quote. I paid $140 for my 2 core. Its a damn sight beefier than the stock one. Fit pretty well too.
  3. If your just looking for a boost in the rump roast, hit the yards and find some stock accord front springs.. A search here will yield the appropriate model and years.
  4. Thats the exact same car I had for my first Subaru. FWD Auto.. Yayy!! If you don't know whan the last time the timing belts (yes, 2 belts) were changed, then go ahead and do it. Maybe the water pump as well, since you'll be in the same general vicinity. As far as the AC goes, there are three things I will generally go to a shop for . Alignments, Exhaust and AC. Just more trouble than its worth to deal with at home IMO.. Unless theres an obvious compressor failure or something.
  5. Those look like the generic aftermarket 'wrx' coilovers I have on my wagon. If you can find out spring diameter and length, I can give you more info on if they will fit or not.
  6. Of course we are, it happens to everyone. You aren't really a subaru enthusiast until you have discovered that switch. Besides, with the exact same thread being posted by someone else 6 hours before, it makes it even funnier. You have mastered the n00b switch. Welcome to the next level of Subaru
  7. Some call it: The virgin switch or The n00b switch It gets almost everyone at least once.. Even me
  8. Sounds like boost related fuel cut. What psi is boost hitting when everything cuts out>?
  9. the same thing just happened to a friend of mine in his EA82T wagon. The Turbo crank pullies do't seem to have the locating pin, and all of them I have had seemed slightly off center. I believe this may have led to the demise of the thrust surfaces on my last motor. So this past time around when I did my motor, I used a pulley from a carb motor, along with the locating pin. fits great and weighs half as much as the turbo pulley Less rotating mass is a good thing.
  10. Any turbo EA82 If yours is FWD, get them from a FWD If yours is 4WD, get them from a 4WD
  11. Precisely. Hint: the hubs are the same Turbo to NA EA82 cars. Its only the DOJ end thats different.
  12. Just switching axles would be a lot easier. 23 spline NA manual axles will fit right in there unless you have done a 5 lug conversion or something.
  13. Look for the FMIC RX.. I think it had hood pins EDIT: This one.
  14. Thats 10 minutes to get the clutch aligned, motor mounts in and the started in and tightened
  15. Not specifically familiar with the ground control setup . Is it any different than any of the other aftermarket coilover sets?
  16. I agree.. The turbos are harder to custom tune than the carb cars are. My turbo wagon has never passed emissions since I got it. I think it is well beyond the point of really worrying about that now. Its all about the fun
  17. I'll get some pics up of how they go together. Bean.. get your pics up and I'll compare to what I have.. there may be some differences between auto and manual. But I have the best of both worlds. FT4wd 5 speed in what used to be a 3AT car:).
  18. Not at all. I have owned 3 cars That have passed emissions catless (all three came with factory cats). Especially on older carb'd cars, cats are a bandaid for people's inability to keep their car in tune.
  19. I am guessing you have a 5mt either P/T or FT with locking center diff. That vacuum line feeds from the little canister to facilitate either the 4wd or center diff lock (depending on which tranny you have) The canister itself should be plugged into a vacuum source, with a check valve in plae to stop it from seeing boost. Oh yeah.. this canister also controls the vacuum for the heater controls The stray bracket may be 4wd/difflock actuators. Will need more info to be sure.
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