calebz

Super Tech: As was stated previously, The old soob systems don't have any sort of system they is aware of fuel pressure. All metering decisions are based on how much air the MAF sees.

Injectors 1 and 3 look like EA82T injectors I have no idea what 2 and 4 are.. you say you purchased them as soob 1.8 injectors? Is it possible they are EJ18 injectors?

Gee Corky, Is it possible that theres a clue in there that he knows they aren't 4x140? Perhaps even 6 lug?

Should also be 3.70. They didn't come with a 3.90 in that configuration. I have done the auto to manual swap (with the LSD and everything. I will post back when I have a little more time. In the mean time, many of your questions can be enswered by the use of the search function.

AFAIK, that only applies to the TD04.. the VF11 should bolt right on to the stock uppipe

I do hope you make more, I lost the last ones you sent me

Yup.. bolt right on, and since the donor is an 85, it should have adjustable struts as well

Git a rope

Easiest way I have found to deal with this problem is to put a jack under the tie rod end and exert a little pressure. that holds it in place so you can tighten it. Works every time.

But I thought you were only 30:confused: That Yield stuff comes from down here in the land of steers and .. uhh stuff right? hmm.. maybe time to bust out the business license and get busy:D

Before you go crawling around in the snow looking for some magical switch, you should know that those 2 little 'electrical looking things near the fuel filter' are the activation solenoids for 2wd/4wd switching. When you press the button on the shifter, you should hear a click from that solenoid pack. If you don't, its time to figure out why. Is there power? Are they grounded/? Is there power going to the switch on the shifter? Did you blow a fuse?

Could be a vacuum line on the control unit. Could also be the little vacuum canister under the hood. Its on the passenger side right in front of the firewall.. I have seen a couple that have gotten old and cracked.

Sitting overnight is good. As someone else said, 'yield' is the stuff.. Good luck getting it though.

My 87 has FT4wd 5 speed, with rear LSD. its 3.70 Unless your D/R is from an RX, its probably 3.90. The 3.70 5 speed FT4wd setup works fine with 14s and street tires. Thats what I had on mine until recently. Overall diameter was a little larger than stock (25 instead of 23). Now I have 16s on there with approximately the same outer diameter.

Got something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33582&item=7956167873&rd=1 Rear install is pretty much bolt on. 1- remove strut 2- Remove stock srping 3- Install new spring using factory tophat 4- reassmble 5- Adjust to preference Fronts required a little grinding on a little disc on the strut body in order for the adjustment collar to fit. 1- Remove strut 2- Remove spring 3- Grind little disc thingy down a little (took 10 minutes or so with an angle grinder) 4- Install new spring with new tophat 5- Reassemble 6- adjust to preference Buying ebay springs is kind of a crap shoot. I don't see the exact springs I used on ebay any more.. Mine were listed for a WRX. Tex's were listed for a legacy. I believe brad is using some made for some VW. ALl 3 of us have a little different spring rates as well. I tried to find out beforehabd what mine would be, but the seller was somewhat lacking in teh engrish skills. I ended up with 350 rear and 450 front.. They are some stiff shizz. The rest of what I did with the suspension is the basic 5 lug stuff.. Tex made a good parts list that can be found in a number of places on the board.

It doesn't matter specifically.. Its simply more common in my experience for FWD and a number of AWD cars to have the diagonal braking system (thus my use of the word 'majority' and not the word 'all'), whereas, again in my experience, it is more common for RWD cars to have the front/back setup.

EdRach strikes again!

Right and wrong Right - the light is coming on because your fluid levels are low. Wrong - Do not bleed the brakes as though its a RWD car. Subaru brakes, as with a majority of FWD/AWD cars are bled in an X pattern (Front right/rear left, Fron Left/Rear right) That covers #1 #2 There ar a million and one reasons that EA82Ts hesitate. if you suspect it has something to do with the cruise setup, it could be vacuum or electrical related. Time to update those old vaccum lines and clean electrical contacts anyway;) #3 Adjustable suspension. On the rear you will see the spring perch has a ratcheting type adjuster. Neat, but no fun to adjust. Requires removal of rear strut and compression of spring. - Fronts, you will see 2 studs that come from the bottom of the spring perches with 21mm nuts on them. turn to adjust up or down

True, but few are more of a money pit than a 20 year old Jag If you're going to keep it.. Its time for a small block chevy conversion. The upside is.. Its not as much of a money pit as an XJS

Then again, maybe not.. Never know what I have up my sleeve;) Thanks for all the replies guys.

Depending on year, condition and availability in your market area, $2k may not be unreasonable. But what one of us would pay and what book value is often vary widely. For reference, when my 88 2wd turbowagon was wrecked, I got $2400 from the insurance company.. and that was still less than Kelley Blue Book value

Ok.. this is an easy one. I need someone with a stock EA82 4WD wagon to measure the distance from the ground to the top of the front and rear bumpers. Please and thanks;)

I agree with Skip. It does sound somewhat MAF'ish. Check the codes and report back. Oh. And here's some punctuation. (.............,,,,,.....) You can use it in your next post

Thats sweet Clayton.

Not like anyone is going to read this.. But heres a little more progress.. Before... After..