Indrid cold

Tommy's salvage Pasco WA. wanted $450 for a 5-sp from 88gl... I walked away...

Oh, also... yea.. Welcome to the board..blaa,blaa.. but, WCSS #11 (West Coast Subaru Show #11) is being held in Stevenson WA. at the end of August. (East of Vancouver). This is worth your time if you can get away for a weekend and check it all out.... see the posting in this meet and greet section for details and registration etc..

My, " +'s " with my 84 Brat: 1.) I keep a good car and have my Brat or Hatch as a back-up and weekend rig.... $38. month insurance... it's a hobby/entertainment kind of thing so write that off in that financial bracket. For others it is their main and only source of transportation... they are at the point in their subaru knowledge and parts that most issues are quick fix's for them. 2.) I put a 5-speed tranny in... worth every dime... 3.) Fun to drive... see #1 and consider it entertainment/hobby How much do we spend??? I try to run my cars cheap, most my parts off craigs-list or other members cars when I drive through at night... (Humor) seriously... dollar for dollar (in my opinion) it is cheaper to run a newer car once you pass the pay off and lower insurance vrs the time it takes to keep an older car on the road.... but the +'s I went from just the basic auto stuff to alot of major tinkering... and that is major tinkering... not the basic tinker... My new found skills (always growing) has paid for itself on my other cars for diagnostic and repairs and considered that a financial trade.... see #1 again... This site has been great and people most pleasent. and 4.) ... they are just fun to drive! 5.) Search craigslist, etc... once in awhile one will pop up... I paid $700. for Brat 8 years ago, $100 for 84 Hatch 2 years ago. Both running but issues... axels, bearings etc.. but that is how you get these cheaper is by people tossing them to the side because of the issues... $1,200 to $2,200 is close to market value for a running/cleaned up basic Brat, but it depends on how nice you want it too look. ... Option A. 2 years ago I stumbled on a 84 Hatch.. which is just as much fun but usually a bit cheaper, ... again... needed alot of TLC but now I had more knowledge and "how too"... so the more you know, the cheaper these cars are to operate... The cost of taking these to a mechanic kills any chance of making them "cost effective" so you have to learn to do it yourself or have $ . Disclaimer: I live in a Non-Emisions area which means I don't have to have cars tested, certified nor homogonized to be on the road...nor do I care for them to be. Results may vary, you will be subjected to..."stupid rig" outbreaks, best to set the tools down, walk away and ask for help/information. Stroking car and talking to them are common and not considered "strange".... wife or G.F. is automaticly upgraded to "cup holder" position. When all else fails... read #1

Nice pics..... (as I sit here in the Dry-Cities)... I haven't been in that area in a long time aka: 7-devils, Eagle-cap, (back packing). Nice set up on the wagon... I am hoping to do a similar to my 82... possibly next summer be kicking around there....

Thanks guys.... I didn't want to waste money by doing something if not needed.... I like the wax idea also. My wife picked the color out for the rims.. then she said the Hatch would look good painted the same so maybe later this summer..... rattle, rattle, rattle....

I had a set of rims sand blasted, I primed and rattle canned them with paint.... (of course the rims, blasting and paint are more then I have in my 84 Hatch.) Figured I would ask those who are masters with the can.... would a clear coat do any good at this point?

It's mind boggling to go into a town on the west coast... just so many roo's in one place... Oh! Does anybody else see the simularities between "Girl with a Legacy" and "The Beast I drive" .... avatar.... and they both walked away!

I had a front brake pad that hung up on the back plate and didn't float in the holder (sprung steel clips) so only one half of the inside pad was being pressed to the disc which caused uneven wear on the pad... Looking at pad half the pad was being shaved away... and was causing a sound similar to what your discribing.... this of course was on the front... my .02 cents.

Welcome to the site... Nice Hatch... mine is an 84... Love the Hatchs... Smart move if a person doesn't have to have a nice car for long range business etc... why dump money into a lease when a nice 86 Hatch does the trick... I have been 5 years with out a car payment.... screw the banks!

Not much... guessing $200 tops (interior better be nice, no wires dangling and clean).... in my book, but I am cheap.., I just offered $50. for something close to what you have (prob. won't get it but it's a try) the issues that you described are an easy fix for the most part, I hope your not giving up on this car just because you don't know how to work/fix them, alot of people on the board live in your area + this site could help breath some new life back into that little car of yours... my .o2 cents.

Hey 88glfan, welcome..(Mike here) . and good to hear you got the problem figured... (check your message box)

I hate it when they get to the junk yard... they think they are golden...

Hey Beast.... Sorry about your loss, that was a great looking car...... she will be missed.

possibly at HWY-14 ? or I will leave from the "site" and go Top-Mabton and catch up that way... ? Will see...

long pry bar with flat pointy end (like you use for digging holes) slide in there somewhere to push down on arm... done.. I did the same as you kind of till I asked the same question... and I happended to have my favorite digger bar... worked great for me.

http://www.skamaniacountyfair.com/FairgroundsMap_Fair.pdf Camping appears to be in open grassy area. The map shows some tree's to the side.. so possible shade in the afternoon... but all sun during the day... mmmmmmm...roasted campers.......

PARTY AT JERRY'S PLACE!!!!!!! late night humor...

I havn't had any luck with the off the shelf stuff since they pulled the real acidic/caustic stuff years back.... I had cooling issues on a Oldsmobile and tried the stuff.. I just finally bought a new radiator, pulled the T-stat (Thermostat) out and flushed with the radiator hoses dangling, got a good flush of water through system/heater core then installed new radiator, prestone 50/50 mix. ........ to answer your question, yes there are adapters that you can cut into the heater hoses.. but to get water to flow through the engine the T-stat would have to removed... or your really not getting a good job of it. The auto-garages have a system that ties onto the radiator cap or hose or heater hose and the car is ran up to temperature, this opens the t-stat and they flush with what ever chemical they use.... but if I have that much into it (shop rate $) I just bought a radiator, new T-stat and that fixed that.... my .02 cents worth

Lets not overlook the obvious if the picture holds true to the interior etc.. Nice find! Lots of people in here dreaming of a $750. Brat... I would have bought it at a heart beat... (as long as low to no rust) I love my 84 Brat with the roof windows etc... This weekend I had abunch of kids (18-19 yrs) at a gas station asking me what a "Brat" is? sorry I didn't have my seats in the back or that would have really spun them up... and yes, assure you do/don't have a 5 speed.. if it didn't go in then probably don't. (just changed the knob) The only real difference is the 5 speed is shorter then the 4 speed but that 5th gear makes a world of difference.. I highly recommend the switch once you have had time to bond with your new Brat... All Hail the Brat... That is all.... Welcome to the old school section...

a bad distributor module can create this same type of engine failure.. run, not run etc... as with a coil, bad battery, alternator etc... let us know what you find..... my .o2 cents..

I use those green Scotch Brite Pads and gently go over the surfaces to dress it up and vacuum the area well to remove any remaining fiber/abrasives. On a later post it said it wasn't a good idea to use these as it leaves abrasives behind ... so not sure what the mechanics do... I figure clean up the surface, remove residue and there you go... seemed to work for me. my .o2 cents.. UPDATE: SEE "HONDA SUCKS" POST ABOVE! WHERE WERE YOU WHEN I WAS DOING MY HEADS? I am going to get me a set of those.

Country? State?

The goop (form-a-gasket looking stuff) you see is normal, it is used on the Cam-tower side to prevent oil leakage as there is no gasket between the cam-tower and head, "High temp silicone" usually black is used, this is on the oil side of the head, not the compression side.. the compression side has a head gasket in it. I wouldn't touch the head gaskets unless you know for sure... they arn't that hard to do... there is a "O" ring between the cam-tower (thing that holds the camshaft assembly) to the head ... you must have a replacement "o" ring if you remove the cam-tower from the head as when you replace a head gasket. But basic untourque and retourque process on head, .. clean surfaces and put new gasket on, torque head down, goop outside surface with "High temp silicone" and with new "o" ring on cam-tower oil passage bolt to head which causes the form a gasket looking stuff to goosh out, (this is the goop that you see at the joint), valve cover and done. Rocker arms or sum such will fall out as the Cam-tower is removed.. read up on those on how to put them back on during assembly... Usuall oil leaks are from front two "0" rings on front side of camshafts, yes you have to remove timing belts and set timing marks.. it is a head scratcher the first time but after you figure it out it isn't too bad. The front crank shaft seal also should be replaced.... but my gut feeling is no you don't have head gasket problems, sounds like all you got are leaking "o" rings (very typical) and needs a good tune-up. When puting the belts back on you must set the tension on the belts.. a simple cheesey home tool can be built to do that or just kind of guess... I guessed and been working great. lots of info on the search list... Plan on the seals taking longer then you think... and the same with the head gaskets.. for the first time, after that you get faster and realize it isn't that diffecult... just can be a saturday burner. Oh... since I am rambling on here.. my 88 EA-82 Wagon had a bad oil leak on the bottom of the head so I had to change the head gasket... this was after I did the front seals etc.. put it back together and realized that the head was leaking also.. so the 2nd time of taking everything apart went alot faster so it wasn't so much the front seals but the lower part of the head gasket had failed. my .02 cents

Great video & flower pics.. ... great memories with the family... Loved the frog... Excellent...

I think I would have ended your story with one of these..: I think we have all been there and best just to say: "I understand." (If you have ever seen the episode on "2 and a half men" when Charlie Harper, played by Charlie Sheen walks around and says, "I understand." then you would see some humor in the post...) It seems to come in groups when things break... I call it, "bonding time" with my 84 Brat but it comes with driving an older rig. I like how quickly many repairs and services can be done on these rigs but I think that can breed a dangerous mind-set or expectation and I have found what works for me as I have tried to become more attentive in my repairs by double checking my work, assuring proper torque, using a realistic time line of pending work and avoiding mid-night repairs by candle light, rush repairs or the "One more bolt, rush, rush mentality" etc.. as that is when I seem to make most of my mistakes and those mistakes are the ones that come back too haunt me. Once in awhile I will do a quick job but I just try to be more thorough and try to avoid shade tree mechanic mistakes.