TomRhere

Not 100% on this, but seem to remember reading here that there is a difference between the 2 X-members. Thinking there's a driveshaft difference also, but.... I've been awake for over 30 hours, I'm whooped, tired, beat,,, I'm going to bed now..

Me thinks many of us would fall into that area..................

Things to check; Free-play, you should be able to push the clutch pedal "by hand" roughly 7/8" before you feel any real resistance to movement. Kinda hard to do, but visually inspect the clutch cable housing for any sign of splitting. Would help to have someone push on pedal while you do this. I have seen cable housing break, when they do cable will push housing apart and not move the piece it is intended to move. On the "everything is new", did you replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel? I have had instances of the wrong pilot bearing in the clutch kit before. Not on a Subaru, but it could happen. If ID of bearing was to small, it would still spin the tranny's input shaft as if the clutch had not been pushed. Proper routing of clutch cable is way important here also. Looks like it's wrong, but cable should go under steering shaft after it exists the firewall. Not sure if that would hinder the release of the clutch, but it sure does make the pedal stiff if it's routed wrong. Just my .02..........

Couldn't think of John's board name.... I'm up for more BRAT shirts.... Even if it's just a print of a BRAT with the Board's addy below it. Would take whatever was offered otherwise though.

I wouldn't worry about the AC either. I would check a few of the local tire shops and see what they had to offer in some used tires. Got some good deals on some decent used tires from some of them around here. You'd be surprized at some of the "used" tires some places have, people just change tires cause they don't like the look or ride of the ones that come on the vehicle they just bought. For an example, got 4-235/65/14's for the Wife's Grand Am, mounted balanced, old tires dispossed of for $135.00. These tires didn't have more than maybe 400 miles on them, still had some of the tips on the tread area. I would also check with the local used parts yards and see what a windshield would cost, (they remove the one you're buying is the only way I'd go), then call an Auto Glass place to see what they would charge to install a window that you supply. Around here, it's roughly $50.00 for installation of "your" glass. I can get a used windshield for around $50.00 here, beats the $200.00 plus for a new one, plus install fee. Don't know how the inspection works where you are, we don't have that here. A cracked windshield is a no-no, but they won't stop you for it unless it's way bad. However, they will cite you for it, (defective equipment), if you get stopped for any other reason. You have 15 days to get it fixed..

Link to thread when they were for sale. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/shirts/offerings.htm

Best stuff I've found for flushing the cooling system out is Mac's Radiator Cleanser, found at a NAPA outlet. Stuff works great, but probally won't clean a fully plugged heater core. HC's have very small passages in them, way smaller than those in a radiator. Once fully plugged, it be plugged. Replacing the HC is a PITA, even using McBrats method. Removing the dash to do it the way it's supposed to be done is even more of a PITA though.

EA-81 & EA-82 engines only have 2 bolts/studs to hold the Y-pipe the the engine, thus only 2 hole in the flanges. The EA-81 engine uses all 4 holes in the head though, 2 short bolts hold the adapter for the pipe to the ASV/emissions stuff, other 2 studs hold the Y-pipe on and pass thru the adapter. You could have the garage cut the flanges off your Y-pipe and re-weld them to use the other holes. Or you could Heli-coil them. Or do like I do, a 7/16"-14 thread tap will go right into the stripped hole. Lots of nice coarse threads in that soft aluminum now. I use a starter tap, followed by a bottoming tap, just to get a couple more turns of thread. My .02.........

Have 2 shirts here with that same exact printing on them, just purchased with in the last 2 years. McBrat was selling them, and they were printed at Slappy's Print Shop.

Check out these pics of a radiator. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=6658&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 If yours is anything close to looking like that, time for a new one..

One can put an EA-81 engine into an EA-82 body and vice-versa. As far as parts swap between the two engines, one is limited to the intake manifold and disty with some re-work involved. The Y-pipe from the EA-82 will fit the EA-81, but one would have to use a spacer to put the EA-81 pipe on an EA-82, as the EA-81 has a piece between head and pipe for the ASV stuff and the EA-82 is plumbed right into the head. Short block; basically just block, pistons & rods, crank, may/may not include cam(EA-81) or oil pan. No oil pump, water pump, heads. Long block; complete engine, usually minus intake manifold. May not have valve covers or oil pan. This would depend on who is selling it, places vary. Also depends on what make of engine, Subaru, Dodge, Nissan, yada yada yada. Open-closed deck; this refers to how the block was cast around the cylinders for the cooling jacket. The deck area is where the head bolts on. On a closed deck one would see small opening for the water to circulate thru(webbing) into the head, this ties the cylinder to the main body of the block. On an open deck, the top of the cylinder wall is basically wide open, no webbing of the metal to the main body of the block. Think of a circle within a circle and you'd get the basic picture. This is not a real good design as it allows for some "walking around" of the cylinder, not good for head gaskets. Subaru made one of these, but I'm not sure what one it is.

It will fit.

I'd like to know where that reset switch is myself. The EGR light is "on" in the '86 BRAT, no ECU to be found, so it must just be a service reminder thing. Annoying to say the least....... Good thing about it though, Wife won't drive it if it has any "warning" lights on.

Basically, the PCV system needs to be able to breath to do it's job correctly. If you look at the "stock" set-up, the PS hose is plumbed into the air filter housing "inside" of the air filter element. The small line from the "T" fitting is plumbed into the air filter housing "outside" of the air filter element. There is a difference in the amount of vacuum at both PCV hoses in the AF housing, coupled with the amount of vacuum at the PCV valve itself. This difference allows the fumes to be sucked into the intake manifold at the PCV valve where it is mixed into the charge for the cylinders, drawing in air thru the PS valve cover, out of the DS cover then thru the PCV valve. Now, at "wide open throttle", the amount of vacuum at the PVC valve itself, drops, air flow thru the PVC system actually reverses if you will. Air is drawn-in thru the smaller hose, thru the "T", into the crankcase thru the DS hose and out the PS hose into the filter housing then thru the carb. That is why one finds oil in the filter housing at times, Subaru could have done a better design on the seperators found inside of the valve covers, would maybe stop some of the oil migration, (and is why one gets that "oil smoke on hard turns" thing.

Here's one,.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5362

On mine, I ran a length of 5/8" heater hose from the PS valve cover up behind the strut tower, put a small air filter on the free end. Length of same size hose from DS cover up to strut tower, install the factory "T" fitting run more hose back to PCV valve, then a smaller hose from "T" to the air filter on the carb. Ran hoses from valve covers up to the strut tops to try to eliminate the "oil smoke on hard turns" thing. Seemed to help. Did this on both EA-81 and EA-82 carbed models running a Weber. You can delete the smaller hose back to the intake filter, but the PCV system really needs to have a second means of pulling the crankcase fumes into the intake to work properly,(mostly for wide-open-throttle (low vacuum) times), hence the line to the air filter on the carb, (intake tube on FI models).

Happy to hear that you got it running...............

Thinking those tubes are bowl vents, haven't seen one (myself) with 2 though, so not totally sure on that. Srews on choke housing would indicate that someone has replaced something under the cover; choke spring, heater. Or that the carb itself has been rebuilt at some time.

Haven't seen him on here much lately, but CIS Subaru, (aka ohsubaru), (aka Noah) used a Spider intake when he did the CIS swap on the Wagon I now own, (he kept the engine and CIS stuff). Maybe send him an email and ask what he did for linkage hook-up, don't think a PM would be answered anytime soon. There was an article on here with pics and details, but I can't find it. Maybe got lost along with the rest of the stuff that used to be the USRM.

I've had a few mechanics tell me that it was un-wise to change tranny fluid in an Auto tranny, but they wouldn'y give details. Done hundreds of fluid/filter changes on various vehicles, never had problems from doing that, so can't see why they say that. The worst things you can do to an Auto is let them sit for years without being moved, or flop one around on the ground/garage floor during a swap. I've had one go south on me from rough handling during a swap. Nothing wrong with fresh fluid and new filter.......

http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1493&highlight=wiring+diagrams Some diagrams in that thread, they be huge though. Best to copy them to your system and print them out. Adams advice is good. I have the harness slung about, out in the garage, hanging from the rafters. I spent quite abit of time going over the diagrams and checking them against the harness, then removed what wasn't needed. Take lots of notes, and put lables on the wires that go to things like dash gauges, power feeds, ect.. One of these days, I'll get back to working on the project. Right now, job and our property needs are taking up most of my time.

Thinking I have the wiring diagram here, somewhere,,, I'll have to look for it. On my '82 BRAT, the relay for the 3rd eye is Black, and mounts on the PS strut tower, right next to the inner fender. BRAT is also equippped with AC, and was orinally a California BRAT, has a few more relays mounted in that area, so yours may be mounted differently, but in that area. Mine didn't work when I 1st got it. Found that the bulb worked, but the door didn't. Pulled the whole thing out of the BRAT, and found one of the wires had broken/corroded off where it connects to the motor itself. A little cleaning and some solder, it be good to go now. Bulb and door motor are controlled by the relay, not sure right now how switch light gets its power when it's in the "on" position.

Kinda remember reading on here that some EA-82's only had one ASV.

Not putting all of the technical jargon in this, Paint a light coat of the blue stuff on the gear teeth, don't really need to do all of them, maybe 5 to 8 teeth, Spin the gears around by hand. Take a look at where the blue was transfered off of the painted teeth. The contact point of the two gears should be more-or-less centered on the tooth.

Well, there's another "new" one in the '84 Auto BRAT you got from me. Of course, it's one of the smooth-top ones, and those are the ones that go bad. You want one that the top is crimped-on, not rolled-on. But with that said, if it's "mail-ordered", you don't know 'til you get it. That's why I re-mounted the one in the '84 so it points up instead of laying on it's side. That way, it "possibly" won't loose it's oil, which is the major cause of them failing.