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Everything posted by Legacy777
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If it fell inside, it would probably be on the back side of the pressure plate. If you don't hear any grinding or what not, then it's probably just in the bell housing. There is a lower cover that can be removed (it's a pain though). If you remove that, you may be able to retrieve the clip, if it's fell to the bottom of the bell housing. You can see the plate I'm talking about in some of these pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/11/
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Subaru does not use dual/2 stage boosters. They are tandem diaphragm boosters. Pretty much all legacies/outbacks that I know of got tandem diaphragm boosters. Only the early gen base imprezas got single diaphragm boosters. However, there are different size tandem diaphragm boosters. If the outback has larger diaphragms, then it will provide more assist then the smaller diaphragms. I took apart a tandem booster. Here are some of the pics. I've also labeled certain parts http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakebooster/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakebooster2
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P0483?
Legacy777 replied to stephen4785's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Have you tried removing the main fan and just applying voltage to it to see if it's working? I'm not exactly sure how the low & high speed work....I think you need to apply voltage to both leads, instead of just the one. -
Something like this, but more work since it's OBD2 www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap
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There is no center diff on the autos. They use a multi-plate clutch system to transfer power to the rear. Which CV axle broke? Front or rear? Here's more info on the auto trans. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg
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Just to add. I used gary's info back in 98 or so to fix my locks. I just used a paper clip to hook the spring. Getting the plastic piece off around the door handle can be tricky. There are two clips at the pivot point of the lock button. Detach those, and then push the entire plastic piece towards the front of the door. That will unhook the last clip in the front.
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I will pose this question to you. When you go to a concert, do you face the music or do you turn and face the other way? You face the music. So why would you want to have the music behind you in your car? Rear speakers for all intents and purposes on pro type systems are nothing but rear fill. They are capped so the frequency range they reproduce is not too high or too low (band pass). That's how I've got mine setup. If you just want to stay with the stock deck, no amps, and other stuff, I would recommend you get new speakers to replace all four speakers. Also, if you want more bass, get a dedicated subwoofer.
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You are absolutely correct in your understanding of the codes and the diagnostic connectors. The canister purge solenoid is part of the evaporative emissions system. The ECU tells it to open at certain times so that intake manifold vacuum draws the gasoline vapors out of the charcoal canister in the front of the engine (black round thing). The purge solenoid is located under the passenger side intake manifold and isn't too bad to get to. These pics should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/ Second row down you'll see a pic of the the solenoid valve.
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Personally, I don't think your TPS was ever the problem in the first place. Too many mechanics are just parts changers any more, and don't actually troubleshoot. Do like your doing...check all the wiring. The problem may be temperature dependent as well....if so, it's going to be tough trying to track down which wire is the actual culprit.