Legacy777

You didn't align things correctly. You do not align the crank to TDC when doing the timing belt. You align the marks on the cam sprockets with the cam covers and the mark on the rear tooth of the crank gear to the mark on the oil pump. These should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg

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fixed link

Hmmm....what color is the smoke? Might be a bad MAF sensor.

Coolant temp sensor....replace it. Should fix things.

I'd try replacing the coolant temp sensor. I'd also recommend seafoaming the engine, and running a can through the gas.

Can you give some more details on where they cracked, and how many times. I've got a set of borlas for the WRX I'm probably going to throw on my legacy.

Yeah I've been wanting to attend the Apex classes. I'm in "studying for my PE" mode right now, so I'm going to try and attend after the exam in april whenever they have their next day

You could try changing the fluid, but the trans/valve body probably needs to be rebuilt

I'm in Houston. What part of town you live in? I'm in the Galleria.

OEM parts or aftermarket? You may want to also search http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Did you go out to the track day at Dallas MSR? I really want to get up there for the driving school/event.

Some of the symptoms can be what you have described.

What kind of end does it have on it? I thought the coax is pretty standard.

Does reverse just not work, or will the gear selector not move into reverse?

Make sure the green & black connectors under the dash are disconnected.

My n/a motor did that occasionally too. It might be the coolant temp sensor, but if it's similar to what I had, it's probably not. If I let the car idle/warm up for a few minutes I did not have the problem.

Your fans will run intermittantly, even in the winter time.

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I'd suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org There's not much, short of turbocharging the engine that will give you significant gains.

Anyone have any help here?

I'd suggest you ask in the engine management forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

There is an internal screen on the transmission, but unless something has failed, and you have chunks in your transmission, you shouldn't have to worry about changing it. Torque split under "normal" straight line driving conditions on the automatic are 90/10. As slip is detected, torque split can change from 90/10 to 50/50 as needed. When you physically put the gear selector in 1, you force 50/50 torque split. I recommended that because it forces 50/50 torque split and would give you a better indication of whether the AWD is functioning. The LSD reference was because, if you are just looking at the driver's side wheels by sticking your head out the window, the passenger rear tire may be moving. Which is why I asked if someone was outside the vehicle observing.

That's bizzare. I don't know what would be causing the issue if you have the vehicle in park. I guess one thing you could try is jacking the car up off all four wheels. Run the car, and then come to a stop, and put it into park. See if you notice the wheels moving.

First, remove the rubber plug on the washer arm, and see if the nut is loose, or if it's in the linkage under the cowling.