Legacy777

check the code and report back.

Yeah if it is the metal hard line, then yah you'll probably have to drop the gas tank. To get the gas tank out you pretty much have to remove the rear diff, axles, and subframe. I "think" you could leave the crossmember in there, but it may give you more room to remove it as well. It's not overly difficult, but there's a bit of work involved.

Which ever TPS you decide to use 3-wire or 4-wire should determine which ECU you use. However I think converting an OBD1 car to OBD2 may not be the easiest.

A buddy from college replaced the neck on his 95 for under 100. So I'd check the price of a new one. They may have changed designs.

buy a new pipe. They aren't overly expensive, and I know I personally wouldn't want to half arse anything in the fuel system that could potentionally lead to starting a fire.

Sounds like either the electronics or actuator is busted. I'd try and check the actuator. I'm not sure if the Haynes or Chiltons manuals have wiring diagram info for the vent actuator assembly, but that's probably where I'd suggest looking.

So they reshimmed the lifters? I'd use a stethoscope and try and pin point more where the noise is coming from.

Just wire up a resistor in the EGR electronics circuit. Then you can use the EJ22 manifold. If you use the EJ22 ECU, you shouldn't need the EGR valve. Main issue I can see with this though is the EGR piping. You'll either have to put a blank plate on the piping going up to the EGR valve, or swap the exhaust piping from the Legacy.

You can try these places. I'm not sure if they ship internationally though. http://www.aaronsautowrecking.com/ http://www.4subarusuzukikiaparts.com/ http://www.superrupair.com/

If oil didn't help the numbers, then I'd say either the valves are leaking, or the headgasket is blown...or possibly both. I would probably lean towards the headgasket. It would cause idle/drivability issues. Definitely contact the dealer.

The vanagon guy is right. The engine is setup for a 90-91 AT. That doesn't mean you couldn't run it on another MY, you'd just need to swap the engine wiring harness. Howevever if you don't want to hassle with that, then yes look for a 90-91 Legacy.

Ok, this thread is turning non-subaru tech related.

They should be on the strut....

It's just a seal, no kit. Get the seal at your local subaru dealer or from jamie www.subarugenuineparts.com

No, you should be fine with running synthetic ATF.

purolator made the white subaru filters. I'm not sure who makes the black ones.

They are normal threads. You just have to work at them.

Here's the pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/newej22_1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/newej22_2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/newej22_3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/newej22_4.jpg

BTW.....just so everyone knows. KYB has a fitment catalogue you can d/l from their website that has all the fitment listings and part #'s. It's pretty cool. It also updates via the web to check for new models and products.

A lot depends on your driving style. If you are a lead foot, the turbo will probably get slightly worse mileage. Obviously the n/a 4 cylinder is going to get the best gas mileage. Personally, I'd get the turbo 4 cyl. I don't think the extra cost of the 6-cyl warrants the cost. Best advice I can give you is go to your local subaru dealer and drive all three. Check out http://www.legacygt.com/ There's probably some turbo Outback owners on there that can give a ball park of their mileage. If not, the GT owners should be able to give you some feedback on their mileage.

Man....for that price....just get the tranny. I still believe the 96 had the phase 1 4EAT trans. Check the connectors on the 96 transmission. Just make sure they match the ones on the 91. There are some additional inputs/outputs on the later model phase 1 4EAT transmissions, but I think you could probably still use your 91 TCU. As for trying to fix yours. Pull the torque converter out. You should see the input shaft seal right there.

I have heard of a few seal issues like this. Unfortunately....it does sound like the only permanent fix is to rebuild the transmission.....or try and find a low mileage used one. For now, I'd just keep an eye on both fluids and make sure they are maintaining at the correct level.

Am I assuming right that the engine is turning over all the times it doesn't want to start?

Have the rotors turned or replace them. I'd just replace them. You really can't see variations in the rotor...enough to cause you problems. As a general rule of thumb. If you feel shaking in the steering wheel the problem is the front brakes. If the pulsation feels more like it's coming through the brake pedal, it's probably the rear brakes.

You may want to ask this question on the rs liberty forums. They may be better suited to help you since most the guys are based either in Aus or NZ. http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/index.php?