Legacy777

What's the "normal" spline count? I haven't heard of any different axle for the FWD models. I'm running FWD AT axles in my AWD MT transmission.

The injectors should be between 10-12 ohms. Verify the connections on that rouge injector is good, and test again.

I really doubt the bar is actually still together with the JB weld. The duct tape is holding it up there, but it's definitely not functioning the way it's supposed to. Yes, I'd say the bar is relatively important and plays a role in the safety of the handling. If you don't want an aftermarket, check local junkyards for a used one for your car.

PB Blaster is another good penetrating oil. Yeah, you have to get the bottom bolt from under the car. A long extension helps.

have you properly checked the ATF fluid level? There are several threads that talk about the proper procedure to check the atf level. I'd start there, or maybe replace the atf fluid.

Should be a similar procedure as the legacy www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Might be a leaf or twig stuck in there. I'd suggest taking the fan out. It's not too hard.

I really can't say for sure whether they will work. There's probably a good likelihood that they'll work. If you have access to the sti stuff, compare the two side by side.

Use the search feature. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?

It's a pain to try and pull injectors. If you pull the electrical connector on the injector, does the car run any worse? Injectors are the red things http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2492.JPG

I'm not so sure the valve body alone will force an upshift. These transmissions are electronically controlled, so the solenoids in the valve body will be actuated by the computer.

The coolant temp sensor can read ok, but still not be working the way it should. I can't say why, but myself and others have run into this. I've found that it's less hassle to just replace the damn thing since it's only 20 bucks.

Technically, both front and rear wheels are hydraulicly driven I wasn't clear, hydraulic pressure engages/disengages the clutch packs which causes power to be sent to the rear wheels

It's probably not too likely they'll go too, but who can say for sure.

Just to clarify....there is no center diff on the automatics. All of the rear power transfer is handled in that rear extension housing. The clutch packs and everything is powered using line pressure from the pump. As mentioned, with the duty c solenoid full open or unplugged completely, the rear is getting full line pressure, (aka 50/50 torque split). Inserting the FWD fuse causes the solenoid to close all the way causing no power to go to the rear wheels. Another clarification....you can NOT use the FWD fuse on the automatics to tow the car with just the rear wheels on the ground. In fact, you can NOT tow an automatic car with the drive wheels on the ground. Lubrication is provided by the pump, which is driven off the engine. So if you have an AWD automatic, all four wheels MUST be off the ground. Regarding what causes torque bind....yes there are some issues with transmission, but I'd say the majority of the issues span from infrequent ATF fluid changes. If you really want to extend the life of an AT, change the fluid often, (more then what the owner's manual recommends), use good synthetic fluid, and add a trans cooler.

Is the e-brake not holding the car? Basically you jack up the rear of the car, remove the little plug on the back side of the parking brake backing plate. Stick a flat head screw driver in there and move the adjustment screw up or down. I suggest moving the wheel frequently after you pull up on the handle to make sure the shoes are dragging.

Personally, don't even bother looking at what the timing mark on the pulley is....it really doesn't matter. As long as you aligned everything up properly on the crank gear (using the mark in the back of the gear, near the tooth, and not the front mark), and the cam sprockets, you should be good.

You're really not gaining oil pressure by resealing the oil pump. What happens is the backing plate on the oil pump has screws that sometimes back out. This increases the clearance between the rotors, so oil pressure/flow isn't as great as it should be. Also, if the o-ring between the block and oil pump is worn, you may loose pressure through that.

The programming in the 1st & 2nd gen legacys' TCU seems to automatically shift the transmission at redline. I know for a fact, the 1st gen legacies will shift at redline, even if the gear selector is in the "1" or "2" position. The newer cars don't do this, the rev-limiter kicks in. I don't know however when this actually took place.

The axles on the 90-94 legacies are all interchangable. Doesn't matter whether it's AT or MT. I'm running front AT FWD axles on my now MT AWD.

When the CEL came back on, did you pull the codes again? Are you getting the same codes?

I can pull the evap box in 30 minutes, TOPS! (assuming the ac system is depressurized) The A/C system needs to be de-pressurized and the fittings connecting the evaporator lines to the evaporator loosened. From there, you remove the glove box, loosen two bolts, and pull the evap box out. It's cake. With the evap box out, he should be able to determine whether the leak is in the evap itself, or the associated piping, or expansion valve. here's some pics of the evap box. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acevap/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/accomp/

What year legacy do you have? I would assume that the MAF sensors would be similar/same between the same range of model year cars.

It's probably a JDM ECU, but short of that, there's really not much I can tell ya about it. You may want to also try www.bbs.legacycentral.org and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You can use cork. I had a cork gasket that worked fine. You just need to make sure not to over torque the bolts, or the cork will squish out. On the flip side, you don't want it too loose either.