Legacy777

Yes, the ECU triggers the fuel pump relay to turn on. The rollover valve is mechanical, and not electronic, so it's probably not that. Have you put a tester on the fuel line to see if there is any pressure at any time?

It's the abs computer http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/absdiag.jpg

Hmmm.....something definitely sounds screwy. I don't really see how just plugging the alternator in could cause all that. Did you try and put a voltmeter on the plug for the alternator? The two smaller leads are sense & light, and shouldn't have anything coming from them. The fatter wire is the ignition lead telling the alternator it's ok to "turn on" and make power now. You should have 12v on that when the key is turned to the ignition, and no other times. Check that plug and see what you find out. You've definitely got some sort of wiring issue. I'd look around at all your wires in the engine bay and up under the dash and make sure no animals have chewed through them.

Yes, please do not post in all caps.

Yeah it sounds like the plastic speedo gear is busted. It's not too common for the gears to break, or at least that I've heard of. Far more common for the base piece to break. It's possible it broke on its own, but who's to say, and I'm not sure what the mechanic would've/could've done to break it. On the automatics since the gear goes to the diff, you don't have to take apart the tranny, but it still needs to be removed, the torque converter taken out, and the diff & tranny unbolted from each other. Regardless, not exactly a simple job.

isr & renick are one in the same.

The speedo cable is pretty easy to spot. Just follow it where it goes into the tranny. When you pull the base piece off, it should be pretty obvious if it's busted or not. Make sure you get the rubber piece and metal washer out of there as well. What I did was jack up the front of the car and turned the wheel to see if the gear in the tranny was still working. Once I knew that was fine, I just put everything back together. BTW, you can see the base piece in this pic http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/09/DCP_3217.JPG It's just in front of the filler tube on the right side of the tranny/diff.

your cruise won't work without the speedo working. There's actually quite a bit of stuff that will behave weirdly without the speedo working.

Sounds like the idle air control valve sticking. Do you have any other symptoms, or just that? You may want to pull the tube off the intake tube that goes to the idle air control valve and shoot some brake cleaner down there. It'll help get rid of any carbon build ups that may be causing the valve to stick.

So it just started doing this?

The speed sensor 2, which controls your speedometer is in the dash. The other is in the tail housing of the tranny. More then likely it's the speedo base piece. Here's 2 threads you can look over for more info. Fix the base piece, and then see how things are working. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27614&highlight=speed+cable+base http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23812&highlight=speed+cable+base

I don't really think a different fluid will do much else, synthetic might be better since it'll probably clean the insides a little more. Unfortunately, I don't know of anything else you can do. Seafoam makes stuff called transtune. I haven't used it, but have used their engine product. If you can find the transtune stuff, it might help www.seafoamsales.com

Do know you have to hold up the handle when closing the driver & passenger front doors for them to stay locked? Try holding the handle up as you shut the door, and it'll probably stay locked.

Mine used to do that. Have you changed the fluid recently? I'd suggest that as a first step to try and help. Maybe put some synthetic fluid in.

If you look in the center console there is an allen wrench type thing. At the base of the pillar between the front and rear doors there is a little round clip/flap. Take that out, and insert the allen wrench into the hex head bolt. You can turn that, and the motor will move, and the seat belt should move. You should be able to manually crank the seat belt in a position so you have a working seatbelt.

To be quite honest, you really can't compare AT's to MT's. It's like comparing apples to oranges. Final drive ratio is different, AT's have torque multiplication, etc, etc.

The old 4eat's are not the same as the new ones. In terms of AWD, the new VTD 4eat's have a better AWD sysetm then the 5mt's which has been the same for a while now.

Read these pages from the owner's manual http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/065.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/066.jpg It shows where the button is.

There is a button under the steering column you can push to get the key out.

Here's what I'd suggest doing to determine whether it's the booster or vacuum line. Take the line off the booster, plug it with something. Start the car, and then wiggle around the vacuum line and see if the engine stalls/bogs down. Unfortunately, I'd probably say that it's the booster. You could probably swap boosters from a similar model and model year near yours.

It never ceases to amaze me what they come up with....that bra one takes the cake as the top one.

Personally I think the dealer is full of it. Unless it specifically states not to use synthetic in the transmission I don't see why you couldn't be able to. I'd try email subaru of america directly and ask them what their official stance is. Dealers are notorious for making up stupid things like this.

Welcome, The factory manuals are the best. Your local subaru dealership may be able to get them, but may not. Ebay sometimes has people selling cd's with manuals on them. I think Haynes or Chiltons also has a book out as well. You can d/l factory manual info from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com It's going to be mainly for the US cars, but the info should be similar if not the same for yours. Yeah that's about normal mileage for struts to need to be replaced. I'd strongly recommend replacing all four. The reasoning for this is that the new struts will more then likely provide better response/stiffer and can throw off the handling characteristics of the car. I had this happen with my legacy when I had mix-matched struts on. I'd suggest a set of KYB GR2's. They are priced well, and provide excellent performance for their cost. The locking mechanism. I don't know personally, there may be some impreza people that might know. If you can get a hold of wiring diagrams or manuals, that should tell you for sure.

probably a bad coolant temp sensor. They're pretty cheap. I'd just replace it. Clogged cats typically get worse as the car warms up.

Just to clarify. There are two fuel sending units only if you have AWD. As to the gauge problem. The contacts on the senders can get corroded. What you can do is take them out of the tank. (access panels are in the trunk if you have a sedan, or behind the seat if you have a wagon.) Then take some emery cloth or fine sand paper and buff the contacts so the metal is clean and the contacts make good connection with the electrode.