Legacy777

Eek.....there's just way too much stuff going on in this thread. One thing at a time. Hondasucks, how you've described the ignition system is partially correct. It's the 1 & 2 cylinders & 3 & 4 cylinders that fire at the same time. See the little piston numbering diagram in my post. As for how the current flows. It doesn't flow back up into the coil. The front coil is tied directly to the same output for cylinders 1 & 2. Similarly, the output for the rear coil is tied to cylinders 3 & 4. If you had long enough spark plug wires, you could reverse wires 1 & 2.......similarly 3 & 4, and the car would run fine. The power flows through the coil into the plug and then grounds itself through the block and back to the battery. John.....so did you swap injectors and fuel rails? It sounds like you did. The 90-91 injectors are different from the 92-94 injectors. Since you have three posts in a row saying what I think you are doing, or did.....can you post the answer's for these questions, for my clarification. What model year is your car? Which MY injectors and fuel rails are currently installed in your car? Which MY harness is currently installed in your car? BTW John, the changes took place between the 90-91 MY's and the 92-94 MY's, not 90-92 & 93-94.

Ok....here's how you can tell which plug goes where. Check the color of the wires going to each plug. The numbering scheme should be the same as the piston numbering scheme 3 4 1 2 front of engine For the 92-94 legacies #1 injector Pin 1 = Br (Brown) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #2 injector Pin 1 = Lg (Light Green) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #3 injector Pin 1 = LR (Blue w/ Red stripe) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #4 injector Pin 1 = LB (Blue w/ Black stripe) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) If you need the 90-91 color scheme, let me know.

wait wait. So you swapped the injectors over too? You're running the 91 injectors on your 93? The injectors will work, however the ecu's for the 90-91's are not setup the same. The duty cylce is different or something is different with the injectors. If you did indeed swap injectors, you need to put the old fuel rails and injectors back on (might as well swap the manifold back). Or you can get a 90-91 ECU....However that can open another can of worms, which you probably don't want to deal with. I swapped a set of 92 balanced and blue printed injectors in my 90, and it ran, but it got horrible mileage and power was not what it used to be.

The 2.2's out of the first gen legacies are different then the ones in the 2nd gen legacies. There are a few internal changes, as well as the heads, and few misc other stuff. You could swap it in, but you'll need a new exhaust manifold and probably need to tweak a few other things. I'd probably pass on getting the motor.

Just an fyi on the wiring harness thing. The 90-91 engines had a three plug electrical harness, while the 92-94's only had a two plug harness. This was the problem you ran into correct? As for which injector is which. I can take a look at the factory manuals when I get home, or you can look through the one I posted in your other thread.....or was that someone else's thread. Here's pics from my injector swap. Maybe you can find a clue about which connector goes where from them. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

Swapping the manifold around has been done. It's usually to reduce the amount of intercooler piping if you're running a large front mount. Still not sure how much more room you're going to get by doing for a twin setup.

www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaru.com

tire circumfirence is what you're looking for.

Just be careful pulling that seal out. The way I usually get seals out is jab a small screwdriver in the sealing surface of the seal at a 90 degree of the shaft. However with that in so deep, I'm not sure it would work. If you had one of those pick things, you might be able to snag the seal enough to pull it out some. This is only the engine & engine electrical sections of the fsm, but probably a lot better then what you have. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ There's various other misc scans here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

I got ya now. According to the fsm, it is a dual circuit design, and it looks to have two independent pistons that are separated by a spring. There is also a spring in front of the first piston.

yeah I'd recommend pulling it out, and yeah it's just supposed to be flush with the rear of the crank. Like this http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/11/DCP_3275.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/11/DCP_3274.JPG

yeah....$4800 markup is crazy. I'd look into buying one in another state or the other side of the mtns. If you find a good dealership, you'd be surprised how accomodating they will be to work with you, since you are going out your way to come to them.

that's BS.....so what are they selling for?

can you elaborate on what you mean by the "piston can move full forward.." I've swapped around MC's and tried to bench bleed...it was for the most part unsuccessful IMO, yet successful in making a mess....I said screw it and just put everything together and bled it on the car. I don't notice any adverse affects from doing this.....?

Keith, The proper bleeding sequence according to the FSM is Right Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear. Subaru does it backwards for some reason. I've bled both ways, and for some stubborn air, the sequence in the FSM was the way I got it out.

How did you bleed the brakes? order, method, etc? How did the pedal feel before you bled the brakes? I don't think thin rotors would cause what you're experiencing. I'm not sure what the run out spec is for that car. You may want to call the dealer and see if they'll tell you.

Starter solenoid contacts. here's tiny clark's document http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/starter.doc here's some additional pics (starter solenoid pics towards the bottom) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/13/default.htm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid3.jpg

You sure you got all the air out of the lines? Does the pedal feel soft initially? If so, does pumping it again firm it up?

Ok.....let's get a little background on your custom application, and what you have modified and how. Without that....we're just guessing. That aside, you can check the codes. The pins for the diagnostic connectors are still there on the ECU, and you can hook up a little 12v light to the output of the CEL circuit. have you had the battery & alternator tested? Have you checked for a short? That almost sounds like what's goin on with your latest issue.

it's normal. my 90 does the same thing. Just how the cruise logic is setup.

It's not ok to run mismatched tires....especially mismatched sizes. You'll cause quite a bit of havoc and eventually damage with the awd

You can tell by looking at how the clutch fork mounts. If it's on a pivot ball, it's a push type tranny. If the clutch fork goes through a cylindrical rod, it's a pull type. Look at some of the pics on my swap site. I have a pull type

Oh, by the way, if you do end up needing a 3.900 rear diff, I know someone in california that has one.

What do you mean?

It's a simple sensor connected to the coolant runner under the intake manifold. All you have to do is unscrew it. here's a pic. It's the brown one http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectrs/DCP_2477.JPG here's a better pic to orient yourself where the sensor is, in relation to the engine http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2476.JPG