Legacy777

I previously converted it to 134a & used esther oil. I used the same brand of esther oil this time as well.

I used about 75-80% of the original r12 amount. The receiver/dryer is brand new. It's cooling fine....I added a little more r134a. I'm probably just going to leave it alone unless I have problems. I let a guy pull the vac & fill last time....that's sort of why I'm at where I'm at. If I do it again....I'll do it myself to know it's done 100% correct. Don't feel out of line....I asked for the help

hmmm....wonder if there is a recall or something on these?

yeah.....just go get some fuel hose from the parts store. I replaced the main feed line a little while ago with some generic hose because the original got chewed up on the end.

hmmm....that's very interesting......

There may be an issue with the torque converter lockup solenoid.

Corky, All the documentation and pictures I've seen say that the EJ22 n/a motor is open deck. Was this 92 made in Japan or the US?

Thanks for the feedback guys.

My compressor crapped out, and I put a used one in and redid everything. Well it doesn't really seem to be cooling quite as well as the original did. I think it either could be that I don't have enough refrigerant in it. Or I almost suspect there may be air in the system. I don't think the guy pulled a vacuum on the system long enough. But anyway. What I'm looking for is what others are seeing in the siteglass on the receiver/dryer. Mine sort of looks like a foamy mixture. I can see it speed up when I blip the throttle. However the way it should be is that I don't see hardly any bubbles, and maybe see a few when you blip the throttle. I don't know if I'm just looking at the siteglass wrong.....and that it's just normal.....or if it is a foamy mixture. If it is actually a foamy mixture. It's either low on refrigerant.....or there's air in the system. Anyone have any suggestions..... here's some pics of the site glass http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acsiteglass1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acsiteglass2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acsiteglass3.jpg Also got a set of gauges. With the a/c on full fan & max a/c. The low side is around 30 psi, & the high side is around 215 psi. I should note....this was an R12 system that had been converted to 134a over a year ago. It was working great, besides the fact that the compressor crapped out.

ONLY the EJ22T was closed deck. The n/a EJ22 1990-1994 legacies were open deck.

Any particular reason you want to go DOHC? The big issue is most if not all of the us spec DOHC heads are from the ej25. If you swap heads it will reduce the compression ratio.

The outback is IMO a marketing gimmick. There are some differences mechanically. They have raised ground clearance and stuff. If you want handling....I'd say go for the legacy. If you find yourself offroad or like that type of vehicle....get the outback.

the bearing needs to be pressed in. You might be able to get it out yourself....but unless you have a press....it'll be a real bitch to get it back in correctly.

the gear ratios are (normally) different between the turbos & n/a. More info about a tranny swap can be found here. http://legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm

you might be able to adjust the brake band. Have you changed the fluid recently? How many miles?

http://legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm

possibly sticking recirc valve. I'd suggest asking over at www.bbs.legacycentral.org a lot more t-legacy owners.

Todd, Did you do anything to the suspension other then kyb's?

Cool.....glad you got it worked out. I took mine apart on monday and got it back together tuesday. I did use the a/c flush stuff. It seemed to work ok. I'll be bringing it by a shop on saturday to pull a vacuum....so we'll see how it works.

This isn't neccessarily true. A "reset" as I call it is removing all power from the ECU. It will clear fault codes as well as clear the a/f learning control and the all the maps return to their stock setup. A memory clear, i.e. through the diagnostic connectors only clears memory faults, and does not reset the maps. For "resetting" You can pull the battery connection off for 30 minutes, or you can pull fuse 14 which is labeled EGI/TCU for the same amount of time. To clear the memory, you can do the same or use the diagnostic connectors and the instructions on my site.

damn....I had a response all typed up and it crapped out during the post. Short answer to recap.....if it's only one weekend, and not too many miles....you probably won't see any difference if you reset the ECU. If you took a long trip, 3000 miles....then it might be worth it.

hmm....that's definitely a different approach then how the kit I got installed....that or I misunderstood how it was supposed to go together.....

clean maf with brake cleaner....but do be careful. Also, you can get an updated knock sensor. The old ones cracked and gave some false knock readings. They're not too much if I remember.

which line are you pinching off? The return line?

http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/legacy.htm I've used it.....wasn't really impressed with it. It's just a set of resistors to attenuate the signal.....or at least that's what I remember....