heartless

i would say that the greater majority of us use that spot for jacking up the front end. and the rear pumpkin for jacking up the back end

if it has the metal plate, reseal it at the very least.

i had an experience similar to this once.. got on it to get through a traffic light that was changing... engine died.. coast to a reasonably safe spot to stop (thankfully it was a downhill run, as places to stop are few & far between at that location).. Mine did not restart however.. had to be trailered home and the timing redone. definitely check your timing belt. it can be off a tooth or two and still run

it would have to be a FWD version

nope. rear end has to be dropped to change a tank on any Subaru

off brand o2 sensors are not a good idea.. might work, but then again, might not and the money might as well have been tossed out a window. (fwiw - once installed, you can not usually return an o2 sensor) if they were my friends, I would urge them to get the right parts, buy them once, fix it once and be done with it for a long time.

not sure if anyone else has this problem, but I don't see the picture.. just a big box with minus sign in it. and while an old Legacy will probably do just fine on this little adventure, i think a Forester would be a little better for the offroad aspect.. shorter wheelbase with shorter tail overhang, slightly taller, bigger tires.. and that is bone stock, LOL maybe next year

good luck with your beast! I may not be of any real help, but perhaps this link can help you out.. FSMs for pretty much any Subaru.. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

the fix is pretty simple. Cut the lines under the rear seat, before they go thru the grommet. replace with new line long enough to route to each wheel, but tucked up out of harms way. Use some rubber tubing to cushion them and simply zip-tie them to other things under there to secure them. Don't even bother with trying to drop the tank, or trying to reuse that junction block.. Had a line go on my 2002 Forester near that block. Shop made a valiant effort (without getting too crazy cost wise) to try to fix using the block, but the lines were in just too bad of condition. We opted to go up under the seat, splice in new line, and everything is hunky dory now.

here ya go.. pretty much any year, any model.. (aside from the newest) http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

you do not need to wait 12 hours after disconnecting the battery to clear codes.. 30 minutes to 1 hour should be sufficient. Seeing as how plugs and wires are an important part of ignition, you may want to take a closer look at those. how old are the plugs? what condition are they in? brand & type? Subarus like simple NGK copper core plugs - nothing fancy is needed here. Wires should be either OEM (Subaru) or NGK brand - aftermarket parts store brand wires are known to cause problems and should be avoided at all costs. if it has an OBD port, it supports OBDII - not sure where you got this idea from. OBDII started in 1996... Pretty much any OBDII reader will handle basic code reading.

same here.. the CS5 is a high mileage "touring" tire.. meaning it has harder rubber for longer life but I also mentioned the Mastercraft snow tires being good - there is a reason for that. the CS5 is great for late spring, summer and into fall use (wet weather traction is pretty good), and ok for a "light" dusting of snow, but for serious WI winter weather, it is all about snow tires!

got this stuff from my local hobby shop - it is meant for building balsa planes, but it has worked great on everything I have tried it on to date, including a styrofoam plane, metal & multiple types of plastics. fixed a pair of scissors recently with it - the blades were coming loose & moving around due to cracked plastic. they don't move around anymore. it does not take a lot either. as you can see levels in the bottles.. and I have used this stuff a LOT. simple 1:1 mix ratio makes it a snap to mix up, and yes, it is pretty much set in 5 minutes

if your primary use is commuting, then yes, the Cooper, or Mastercraft equivalent, would be fine for your needs. the CS5 is an all-season "touring" tire, which means longer treadlife than some others. this is the 2nd set of Coopers I have had, and am quite happy with them. I have had both the Mastercraft touring and snow tires - both are great if you are on a budget.

i am currently running Cooper CS5s on my 2002 Forester and they are fine.. put them on 2-1/2. almost 3 yrs ago, still plenty of tread life left. Mastercraft is made by Cooper but with budget in mind - so same basic tire with very minor differences in the tread patterns, but for less money. I only got the Coopers this time because they happened to be on sale when I needed to get tires.

ok, maybe I am a little weird.. but, this is how I learn a lot of stuff.. by reading and following along with others as they do things. Granted, I am not going to turn into a tech from all of this, but I will end up with a very basic understanding of how it all works. So, please, do update as you tinker with it and figure things out so my inquisitive nature can soak it all in.

http://mastercrafttires.com/ my "budget friendly" go to.. click on their tire selector, enter your car info and they will give you recommendations specifically for your vehicle.

Please don't.. lol I don't know much about this kind of stuff, but find it fascinating reading. =)

very cool.. but.. Need more info!!! =)

glad to hear you have things working properly again.

i also have done the Forester strut lift on a 95 Legacy wagon - on the stock 14s it nets very close to 2 inches of lift with no other work add the 15" Forester tires and you can gain just a little bit more the 1st pic below is of my stock 90 sitting next to the 95 with just the strut lift, sitting on the stock tires/wheels. Look at mirror positions to really see the difference - before the strut lift they were dead even at the mirrors. 2nd pic is with the forester wheels mounted.

so it is an 1157 type bulb.. OP needs to get new bulbs at the very least if that does not fix the problem, then she needs to find out why they are not working as they should

i used Legacy tophats (ended up buying new KYBs, but started with the stock ones), but put 98 forester struts & springs on my 95 L even sitting on the stock 14" tires, it gave nearly 2" of added height...

i can highly recommend the KYB mounts - used them myself on the 95 i had, on forester struts/springs.

I will have to do a bit of digging, but i "may" have a climate control unit hiding in the garage.. not sure if it is for a 95 or the earlier 90 model I had..