Turbone

Ditto on the windshield. RX and GL are different. As for swapping the EA82T into the GL, I really dont suggest it. There are so many things that would need to be done. From the fuel system to the electrical to structural. If this is your first Subaru and have meduim mechanical skills, it would still be a challenge. And even tho I've been a staunch supporter of the EA82T for years...... its not worth the hassle, IMHO. Better off going with a SPFI or a EJ.

Where was it located? I want to say its the ECU, but I dont think so. If it came out of the drivers side fender it would be a anti-knock unit, but those were on the EA81T's.

My last turbo engine I had (and blew) was missing about 1.5in of the edge of the piston. There was no trace of it when I removed the head. And there was only small marks of the top of the piston with no damage to the valves. Little alum shavings are going to just get blown out the exhaust. I know when the PCV system/hoses start to get plugged with junk and back pressure builds, the dip stick likes to pop out to relieve pressure in the block.

Something is wrong with the hill holder mechanism and/or the cable might be sticking upon release. Altho it wouldnt hurt to have the brakes bled and the rest of the brake system checked out, I think the problem is with the hill holder.

A stock 5spd would mean its 2wd.

You got it :-p

I'm going to have you sign some forms before you go back home :cool:

I have to go to Oly today to look at a car. Maybe I can make a run north tomorrow.

Or Dicks then a drive to Alki Beach.

DICKS! Mostly because I know where it is, the food is cheap and its not a hugh trip for me.

Yeah, the stock one will work. What days and times do you have free?

Keep an eye on NASIOC for the TD04 DP. If nothing shows, try some of the local tuning shops. You will also need the TD04 flange from a up-pipe, that needs to be welded to the EA82T one. Get a recirc valve instead of a BOV. Its to much rice. The size of the IC piping from the turbo is 2in, the rest is 2.5, so you will need a reducer. If you get a MBC, dont scimp! You can get a nice Hallman on Ebay for around $80. If you do intend to up the boost right away, you will need the bigger injectors and it would help to have a adjustable fuel regulator. Not sure if a bigger FP is needed yet. Maybe if you get past 14psi. Definatly get some good gauges. I used a A pillar setup for a WRX. Just had to trim a little on the bottom to clear the door panel. I have a boost gauge (my light still works too), a oil pressure and water temp gauge. The sending units will be SAE, so you will need to re-tap the oil pump and the water threads. Its real easy, just take your time. A/F gauge is a good idea, but I dont run one...yet. I'm running a MSD coil, NGK Iridium plugs, NGK wires and Royal Purple syn oil. You probably dont want to run the synthetic oil tho, unless you replace all the seals and gaskets before hand. Oh, you might not pass emissions after all this. Keep that in mind if you need to get it tested. The test results are good for a year, so get it done before you make the upgrades.

A little rust? Clean them up and paint them black. I think I need to make that my motto

I've always threatend to put you over my knee and spank you if'n you acted up Now with Briggs, that aint happenin :-p But I do have a well used leather belt

2 handed :-p

Yeah, I would be up for that. The sooner the better Never know when mine just decide to grenade.

The best thing for the oil supply lines is to get a cooler installed. I havent done it to mine yet, but I'm thinking about it. I need to run it hard for a little bit and borrow someones digi temp sensor and check the temp on the turbo and oil lines. Also keeping temps dow in the engine bay helps. I usually run with out my stock skidplate, except when I RallyX. Gets better air flow. Find a hood scoop, wrap the turbo (my next project).

Being mental and being anal are 2 different things. But in other cases/people.....not Dont forget, we are working on a soon to be show car. It pays to be anal

I really dont want to spend the whole time working on cars when your here. We have yours to work on when your here, I hop to have the XT done before you get here......maybe. If I can get him to bring it here, soon.

Take the carpet to one of the power car wash places. That way you can lay it out and use the wand on it. Start looking to replace all the hoses/rubber lines you find that are dried out and brittle. All the turbo cooling lines should be replaced with silicone ones, not totally necessary but I recommend it.

Lil Blue ships on the 12th, so 2 weeks should make it between the 25th and 28th (weekend). I'll have some time tomorrow to look him over again. You dont know how hard it is to open my front door every day and see him sitting there :-p Especially when I need one for a project like Zaps

Not a copper HG, just the sealer. Its a spray on. Even CCR uses it. I think Cometic makes the copper HG.

Dont feel bad. I'm still into the EA's mostly because I'm a stubborn old fart The EJ's have become the lastest "fad". Once the bugs were worked out, its the cool thing to do. The more its done and as time goes by, the cheaper it will be to do. Theres all kinds of pro's and con's for the swap, but I prefer to keep mine authentic (To a point. My Hatch isnt all original)

Fixed it for you

Heres what it says in the FSM. Altho I have torqued mine up to 55lbs and stopped there, I had no problem with a HG on my last build. I also used copper seal on it.