Turbone

Yeah, the stock one will work. What days and times do you have free?

Keep an eye on NASIOC for the TD04 DP. If nothing shows, try some of the local tuning shops. You will also need the TD04 flange from a up-pipe, that needs to be welded to the EA82T one. Get a recirc valve instead of a BOV. Its to much rice. The size of the IC piping from the turbo is 2in, the rest is 2.5, so you will need a reducer. If you get a MBC, dont scimp! You can get a nice Hallman on Ebay for around $80. If you do intend to up the boost right away, you will need the bigger injectors and it would help to have a adjustable fuel regulator. Not sure if a bigger FP is needed yet. Maybe if you get past 14psi. Definatly get some good gauges. I used a A pillar setup for a WRX. Just had to trim a little on the bottom to clear the door panel. I have a boost gauge (my light still works too), a oil pressure and water temp gauge. The sending units will be SAE, so you will need to re-tap the oil pump and the water threads. Its real easy, just take your time. A/F gauge is a good idea, but I dont run one...yet. I'm running a MSD coil, NGK Iridium plugs, NGK wires and Royal Purple syn oil. You probably dont want to run the synthetic oil tho, unless you replace all the seals and gaskets before hand. Oh, you might not pass emissions after all this. Keep that in mind if you need to get it tested. The test results are good for a year, so get it done before you make the upgrades.

A little rust? Clean them up and paint them black. I think I need to make that my motto

I've always threatend to put you over my knee and spank you if'n you acted up Now with Briggs, that aint happenin :-p But I do have a well used leather belt

2 handed :-p

Yeah, I would be up for that. The sooner the better Never know when mine just decide to grenade.

The best thing for the oil supply lines is to get a cooler installed. I havent done it to mine yet, but I'm thinking about it. I need to run it hard for a little bit and borrow someones digi temp sensor and check the temp on the turbo and oil lines. Also keeping temps dow in the engine bay helps. I usually run with out my stock skidplate, except when I RallyX. Gets better air flow. Find a hood scoop, wrap the turbo (my next project).

Being mental and being anal are 2 different things. But in other cases/people.....not Dont forget, we are working on a soon to be show car. It pays to be anal

I really dont want to spend the whole time working on cars when your here. We have yours to work on when your here, I hop to have the XT done before you get here......maybe. If I can get him to bring it here, soon.

Take the carpet to one of the power car wash places. That way you can lay it out and use the wand on it. Start looking to replace all the hoses/rubber lines you find that are dried out and brittle. All the turbo cooling lines should be replaced with silicone ones, not totally necessary but I recommend it.

Lil Blue ships on the 12th, so 2 weeks should make it between the 25th and 28th (weekend). I'll have some time tomorrow to look him over again. You dont know how hard it is to open my front door every day and see him sitting there :-p Especially when I need one for a project like Zaps

Not a copper HG, just the sealer. Its a spray on. Even CCR uses it. I think Cometic makes the copper HG.

Dont feel bad. I'm still into the EA's mostly because I'm a stubborn old fart The EJ's have become the lastest "fad". Once the bugs were worked out, its the cool thing to do. The more its done and as time goes by, the cheaper it will be to do. Theres all kinds of pro's and con's for the swap, but I prefer to keep mine authentic (To a point. My Hatch isnt all original)

Fixed it for you

Heres what it says in the FSM. Altho I have torqued mine up to 55lbs and stopped there, I had no problem with a HG on my last build. I also used copper seal on it.

My preferences: Purolater OEM Wix Napa

Huh, you guys would be in for a world of hurt. I know some of these women and they would chew you up and spit you out, and then do this Dont expect to go there and play games with them, I seriously doubt they would play fair with you Especially you Jeff

I guess the only way to "prove" that a Fram filter was at fault for the demise of a engine before its time would to buy a new car and run nothing but Fram filters in it. Follow the manufacturers oil schedule and keep all receipts of oil changes. Then every 30k, take a sample of the oil to a lab and see what they find. If and when the engine goes TU take the final oil sample and the record of previous ones from the lab and contact a lawyer. IF it shows that Fram has a inferior product. After all that I still dont see anyone winning a court battle over it. Our best choice is to NOT buy Fram products.

Keep this up and the thread is going to end up in the New Gen Forum Keep on topic, were talking EA82T. Nothing else, nothing less. To build a reliable EA82T thats got some grunt to it, takes finesse. Dont scoff either, you all know the results that alot of us have had pushing just a little to far past the limits of this engine. You have to know when to stop and be satisfied with what you have. Trust me, that has to be the hardest thing to do. Boost is addictive :cool:

After reading this thread and many more like it, I decided to do a little research today. A friend and I were at the Tacoma PAP scavenging for some Subaru parts (of course) and after we got our little treasures I started pulling the hood up on vehicles that had no physical damage. This way I would assume they were in the yard for mechanical failure. On average, I would say 4 out 5 vehicles were running Fram oil filters. Some had Pennzoil or aftermarket filters and very few had OEM or "good" filters. This was just in the import section, we didnt look in the American section. Just a little FYI and kind of confirms my suspitions(sp). I was actually a little surprised at the high number.

You have to be a boost junkie to understand :-p Ah, the rush of forced induction

Those and the thers screws that hold the uppers to the lowers. I have found those get loose often.

Ah, but have you ever built one and driven it? Take your spare engine and go completly through it. If you have the time and $, put new bearings and rings in it. Dont have to be fnacy expensive one, stock will work. Get the heads milled, but dont over do it. Otherwise you will have to much compression and HG issues. Get the valves and guides done. Polish the intake ports if you want. New parts are a must. Get a new WP, OP, new timing belts and tenshioners. Re-seal the complete engine. I use a K&N drop in filter, it works great. Upgrade the coil to a MSD. I now run NGK Iridium plugs. Pricey, but they work. As long as you re-seal the engine, you can run synthetic (like me). Open the exhaust up. I have 2.5in from the DP back. Make sure the turbo has no shaft play. It safe to boost up to 12-12psi. If you do so, install a IC. A TD04 is a nice upgrade but it spools up slower and the rpm's need to be higher. My RX is putting out 130bhp. Thats 100hp to the wheels and 106tq. I dont know if I want to drag race it, the launches are to harsh with fulltime 4wd. My tranny is the weak point now. Do all this and be conservative with the power upgrades and you might hit the 14's. If you dont mind changing engines like a NHRA mech, go with a SPFI block and have fun!

How flexible are you? The hard part is getting under the dash to remove and install the cable end to the clutch bracket assembly. Theres a clip that holds the cable end, cant remember if its a bolt or screw. After thats removed just pull it out of the firewall from the engine compartment, remove from clutch fork then install in reverse order.

Are they for a 2wd or 4wd? Theres a difference and finding front struts for a 4wd are getting harder to find. All the ones I have found on Ebay are 2wd. I have had 2 orders cancelled in a week. One for KYB's and the last one for Sach's. I'm calling my Dealer today to see if he has OEM ones.