Turbone

We need a blushing smiley:rolleyes: Hope the part your Dad got fixes your problem. If not, just let me know.

Wow, total destruction. I assume he cannonballed the entry and sucked in a bunch of water at high RPM's? Water doesnt compress well in a engine, eh?

I was at the Dealer today and he can order the parts. It will cost $18.50US. And it would be no problem for me to ship it, the parts are small. Would cost less to ship than it costs for the parts.

I need to stop by the Dealership tomorrow, I can ask if they have it, or can order it.

On the shock mount there are cups for the rubber bushings. Try and flatten out the small one because this is where the big bushing sits when its flppied over. This will help it sit better on the mount. The bushings need to be in the same position as original, the smaller bushing needs to seat in a hole on top of the wheel well.

Eh, you got yourself into this one:cool:

Isnt it amazing how one little screw can leave you dead on the side of the road? And give you multiple symptoms to boot?

Well, I got to take a look at the problem today. Disconnected the temp sensor and loosend the DP and then tried to start it. It was a no go, just cranked. So I checked for spark from the coil, it was good. Checked for spark at the plug, it was there but weak. So for S&G's I took the disty cap off. Everything looked normal, until I grabbed the rotor and it came right off:mad: The screw was sitting on the dust cover. I just replaced the cap and rotor last week and I know I tighted that screw:rolleyes: And after getting the DP red hot? Its fine, no backpressure. But I need to keep an eye on it, it could decide to break apart and clog the outlet. So the RX is back on the road:headbang: And it didnt cost anything to fix:brow:

Pull the disty cap and turn the engine over. It will tell you if the drivers side is broken or not. The passenger side, you need to pull the cover off.

It seems to be working ok. I need to weld gussets to the lift blocks, dont want them shearing on me

Thanks for the offer. I have 4 in my shed. You guys should know me better than that:burnout:

Your not going to do that for long before you have some serious breakage. Theres quite a few here that can attest to that. The coolness factor will be wiped clean when your trying to figure out how your going to get your car home. Brandon, where you been? Get that Hatch finished, darn it. You would be driving it now if you had left it alone:D

No worries there:D

Well, the cat is fried. Tried to start it again and the turbo light would come on and it backfired a little thru the intake. Will check the temp sens connections tomorrow and swap out another DP (A gutted one if I have one).

Qman said it could be the temp sensor. Have to get it home first, hint hint

Sorry about the resolution of the steering pic, not sure why its like that. The parts in question are #4 and 5. This is the bearing and bearing bushing. You will need a puller to get the wheel off, I'm not sure how hard it is to get the other parts out.

Just up and died on me around the corner from my house. It wouldnt restart unless I floored it and kept it there and didnt run well at all. I had the hood up and say the smoke coming out:eek: So I let it die and got out to look. I dont have any covers on the turbo and I can see the DP easily. It was red hot and about 10in past also. Dont know if it was like that before it died, doubtfull it was. So I'm thinking it was unburnt fuel in the cat, or else the cat is plugged. It was running ok until it died. It looks like I might get that NA block in sooner than I thought:rolleyes:

That pusher is going to have a Warn 6000 mounted to it shortly. Cant sacrifice just a degree or 2 for that.

We've been there, done that. It all comes down to reaching a limit. Its either money or hardware. If you are going to start altering the car to a point its no longer recognizable as a Subaru, you might as well start out with another brand. At some point in your build (Subaru) your going to have to say "Ok, thats good enough". (for now, anyways)

Well, one more for S&G's. I have 30in tires usung a EA81 PS R&P setup. I have had no problems so far. One thing you need to look out for if you use a EA81 PS is the idler pully. The bearing can go south on you if it gets garbage in it. There is actually a rubber cap that goes over the nut that helps seal the bearing. Hard to find, these are.

Yup, welcome to the club:clap: The shocks can be replaced with EA82 in the rear (or XT/XT6), the fronts will take Legacy struts. The bottom mounts need to be spread out a little to fit on the hub.

Ok, you've all probably been waiting for me to show mine:rolleyes: But someone else has to do the math, I dont have CAD (or math skills, for that matter)

And the gas for both rigs also. I have enough Soobs to not drive my Hatch as a DD thankfully. With those big tires it gets crappy gas mileage:-\ But I do drive it to and from where I go wheeling. Evans Crk is very close, Rieter is 1.5hrs away. I have never had any problems with the law going to either place, or even driving around my area. All I get is double takes and thumbs up:headbang:

What he said ^^ If you keep the 4spd, make sure you get a good clutch. I did this swap on my first Turbo Wagon and I went thru 2 clutches in 1 month.

Did you win the state lottery? Cant wait to see it run @ WCSS8:burnout: